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Thread: Problems Casting 200 gr SWC Bullets

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Often times we speak of the sprue puddle "hazing over" when the alloy starts to become solid. Looking at the bullet bases, are we seeing some pin hole cavities or is that just the lighting? Also, some appear to be cut and some appear to be torn from the base. That suggests being inconsistent in your timing. Not a problem for me personally, as I would size/lube and shoot anyway.

    I do not understand your comment that the slow cadence did not allow the mold to get hot enough. The mold and sprue plate should have been too hot and starting to cool down as you match the cadence. The important thing about the casting cadence is not just the fill, cool, cut, cool, dump, but the immediate refill, cool, etc. If you are delaying in refilling the mold it will cool excessively and give wrinkles. Still not sure why the mold is not releasing more easily though.

    You are in So Cal so it can not be that cold, but perhaps you are casting in a breeze and that is robbing the mold of heat a lot faster than casting in a calm area with sufficient venting. Are you running the pot stop valve wide open for a quick fill, or throttled back so you make soft serve ice cream cone type wrinkles. Showing the problems can sometimes help clear things up.

    About to the point of suggesting just smoking the mold with a Bic lighter and see if that will allow easier bullet release. Is this your clip on wheel weight alloy with tin added? What is the mold nominal weight and what is the as cast weight?

  2. #22
    Boolit Bub
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    Hello Guys,
    Gave it another run tonight for an hour and the results are much improved. After I cut the sprue, I count to three. Then tap the bolt handle lightly while simultaneously using a finger from my non-dominant hand to slightly push the mold handle open.

    This helps the mold halves to pop open slightly without deforming the leading edge of the band. In many cases, the bullets even just drop freely.

    I'm realizing that these molds do have a personality. Being a new caster, this is the 3rd mold I have used. My previous 2 molds (a lee 6-cavity and a Noe 2-cavity) didn't show a need for such finesse in operation.

    Just want to thank all of you for your input.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master


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    Sorry, I don’t recall if you said if you just watched the sprue instead of timing the cooling. I watch it to see the boolit pull a slight depression as it cools and the texture of the surface changes slightly. I believe that’s a better guide than absolute timing since the mold temperature will vary.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Get a lead ingot of a heavy size, put it on the table very close to you, let the sprue harden, cut the sprue TAP THE MOLD on the ingot of lead as you gently open the mold.
    Sometimes it takes ONE TAP depending on your TAPPING force or maybe a COUPLE OR THREE LIGHT TAPS as you easily open the mold.
    I know there will be many shouting warning, warning like the robot on the show Lost in Space, giving mountains of advice not to do that but I have done it for years with steel molds, aluminum molds and brass molds with no problems.
    But I am gentle doing it, not like I am hammering 16 penny nails into a seasoned piece of oak.
    At least try it before announcing the technique as bad.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master


    Burnt Fingers's Avatar
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    When I cast with an RCBS mold I use my gloved hand to open the sprue plate. I don't do a count, I watch the puddle.

    One nice thing about cutting by hand is you get tons of feedback on the timing.

    Once I cut the sprue I open the mold and drop the boolits.
    NRA Benefactor.

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by G. Freeman View Post
    Hello Guys,

    Have been casting using my new RCBS 200 gr SWC mold. My first casting session had issues with tinning on the edge of the front band. I judiciously removed all the stuck lead and polished the edges using steel wool.

    During my 1st casting session over the weekend, I noticed that the edge of the front band of my bullets (around 20% of my yield) were ripping as the mold is opened. I thought this was caused by the bullets sticking to the tinned area of the mold.

    Cast for another couple of hours just now. No more tinning and the inside halves of the mold have stayed clean. However, the front corner of the front driving band is still ripping as the mold halves are opened.

    I tried casting faster vs slower, opening slower vs briskly, raising or lowering the temp of the lead between 700 to 800 degrees. But the problem persisted.

    Alloy is wheel weights + 1% tin added.

    Would you guys know what is causing this?

    This is enough to make a grown man cry. I'm ready to give up.

    Thanks in advance.

    I cast sevarl hundred bullets using two exact copies (RCBS 201), of your mold today. I had no problem. I am still convinced part of your problem is too much antimony (which makes your bullets "hot short"... brittle/crumbly when hot) in your alloy. I use two molds which allows one to sit and cool while I pour the other one.

    After opening the sprue plate, I turn the mold upside down before I strike the handle center bolt... which usually causes the blocks to spring open and drop the bullets.

    My alloy is pretty soft, with way less antimony than clip-on wheel weights. But, allowing high-antimony alloy to cool more should end your problem with the driving bands tearing off.

    If it means anything relative to casting experience, I have been casting since about 1965 or so... not exactly a newbie.

  7. #27
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burnt Fingers View Post
    When I cast with an RCBS mold I use my gloved hand to open the sprue plate. I don't do a count, I watch the puddle.
    Once I cut the sprue I open the mold and drop the boolits.
    That's how I do it with the slightly lighter RCBS .45 SWC for a .1911 .45ACP.
    My alloy is mostly pure Lead with just enough precious wheel weights to get a good flow.

    Your mileage may vary, but since the mid-80s, I don't know how many thousands of them I've cast with no problem.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


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    EVERYONE!
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  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Where there is a will there is a way.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    I Long Count to 7 before opening a steel mould ... 1001 , 1002 , 1003 ...to one thousand seven ...then open
    This is correct but will vary between molds. Large 6 cavity molds need a longer time than smaller and or less cavity molds do.

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
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