Plain base v bevel base

[Mal Paso]

Bevel bases are positively a PITA with RCBS and Lyman lubesizers. LOL

Star sizer, no problem.

[greenjoytj]

Does the Star sizer have a valve that only opens to flow lube after the bullet fully down in the sizing die?
Some type of valve or gate to turn off the pressurized lube flow or de-pressurizing the lube tank while the bevel base gap is passing the lube ports.

[Roundball]

The Star Sizer is a wonderment. As to the way it works there is little if any similarity to a Lyman type lube-sizer. This may be a cop out but I'd suggest Googling the Star. That's the way I went getting my antique Star going. A picture is worth many words.

[megasupermagnum]

Does the Star sizer have a valve that only opens to flow lube after the bullet fully down in the sizing die?
Some type of valve or gate to turn off the pressurized lube flow or de-pressurizing the lube tank while the bevel base gap is passing the lube ports.

A Star sizer is an upside down grease gun. A spring or air cylinder puts pressure in the reservoir to feed the lube into a chamber, but does not have enough pressure to do anything except get a tiny dab of lube on the bullet nose, which you often read about. This can be mitigated by lowering the lube temperature, and pressure if you have the air cylinder. What actually does the real lube pumping on a Star, is a piston, which is pushed when the handle is almost bottomed out, it pushes a linkage bar, which pushes the piston. You set the depth of the bullet punch, so that the lube groove or grooves are centered over the die's holes. In theory, lube is only applied when the bullet is in the die, and holes in the die centered over the grooves.

You contrast that with a Lyman or similar down and up style, which the lube is under full pressure the entire time. If there is ever not full contact with the die push rod, or bullet, you make a huge mess.

[DonHowe]

Dies I bought from Star came with lead shot pellets which were used to plug all holes except where you wanted the lube to come out. Plugging holes combined with top punch adjustment aligns the lube groove with open lube holes in the die at bottom of the handle stroke. Then as the handle bottoms the lube is pumped into the lube groove. So lube only goes where you want it.
If I had trouble with lube around bevel bases it would be due to too hot lube and too much pressure. Use of lube which did not require a heater mostly alleviated these problems.

[Mal Paso]

With a Star, misalignment of the groove with the holes puts lube on the nose of the following bullet.

I just wanted to point out to point out to those just starting that bevel bases can be less then fun in certain lubesizers. There are fixes but better to avoid the problem.

[Roger Kehr]

I have found that it does take some time to set up the Star properly. If grease grooves are misaligned, it is a mess. Best practice for me has been to measure to the grooves and set the sizer punch from that...saves a lot of time.

[Walks]

I prefer plain base. I've found that contrary to the experience of others, plain base load easier and straighter for me.

The Lyman #452488 and RCBS #45-201-KT group better out of 2 Colts and a Springfield for Me.
My Dad shot the H&G #68FB for many years in Bullseye Competition.
I guess I've just inherited His preferences.

Someone on this sight that I have an Enormous Amount of Respect for has had a different experience.
Just goes to show that what works best is up to that individual.

[Outpost75]

In my experience a slight bevel base reduces "cupping" of the base in heavy loads, and reduces leading, because you avoid the thin wire edge of a sharp corner being exposed to the hot powder gases, which has less heat capacity than a bevel base. Also, when loading throat-diameter bullets of diameter larger than barrel groove, a bevel base less less likely to drag a "fin" off the corner of the base when being extruded into the tighter barrel. A perfect case-in-point being a Colt Python with typical .3585-.359 cylinder throats and a .354-.355 barrel.

My Accurate design molds have only a minimal 0.03" bevel, which is entirely obliterated by the time the bullet exits the bore, so there is zero aerodynamic difference. I use only tumble-on, film-coating lubes such as 45-45-10 or diluted Lee Liquid Alox, so I don't worry about having to wipe excess lube off the bases.

The bevel IS easier to load in progressive machines without base deformation and drops from gang molds more easily and with less potential for damage than dropping hot bullets with sharp square bases onto others in the pile...

I've shot 100-round comparisons of bullets of both types from heavy test barrels with Unertl scope in .38 Special. If bullets are otherwise from the same heat of alloy, with good fill-out, same weight, profile, diameter and test barrel or revolver cylinder throat fit, being loaded the same, I have found NO statistically significant difference in T-testing samples of mid-range target loads.

Ten-shot groups under 2 inches at 50 yards are the norm for wadcutter brass loaded on a Star machine with 3 grains of Bullseye, 452AA or WST and profile crimped in the Redding die, using a bullet of 146-148-grain weight and single grease groove with double-end, bevel base profile with crimp grooves on each end similar to the Saeco #348. Loading bullets with sprue-cut forward DID make a difference! Bevel-based bullets also retain accuracy more effectively in "full-charge" wadcutter loads at +P velocities and pressures in .38 Special, at which base cupping may occur in softer 8-10 BHN alloys. Grouping of full-charge wadcutters is every bit as good as lower velocity target loads as long as velocities remain subsonic to as to avoid transonic buffeting as velocity decays at 50 yards and beyond. In a fast-twist one turn in 10 inch PPC gun you can get impressive results out to 100 yards or more. Not possible in your 18-3/4" twist S&W.