Titan ReloadingLoad DataRepackboxMidSouth Shooters Supply
Lee PrecisionRotoMetals2WidenersReloading Everything
Inline Fabrication
Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Toggle switch for older Harbor Freight band saw

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    2,377

    Toggle switch for older Harbor Freight band saw

    Have an old Harbor Freight chinese band saw. Need a toggle switch with extra long toggle because when the saw comes down it hits the extra long toggle handle to shut it off. Has a induction motor with 100mfd capacitor. Can I juts install a 10amp 125 volt toggle switch and when it goes off only break the hot wire (black) or do I need a toggle switch that breaks both the hot and neutral legs at the same time. And where would I get the on/off toggle switch with an extra long toggle?. Checked with Grainger but no mention of an extra long toggle. Thanks in advance for your help. Frank

  2. #2
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,479
    Of all the power tools I've run across, the on/off switches only break the hot wire.

    I've got a el-cheapo drill press that the switch went bad on, and I couldn't find a replacement.
    I mounted a 120V house hold light switch in a blue plastic box a couple inches directly above it and ran the switch wires to it.

    So far, so good.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy firebyprolong's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    222
    That’s what I did when mine went out on my China freight saw, just replaced it with a standard ace hardware store toggle switch, I can’t remember if it was double or single pole. I did have to bend the little shutoff tab a bit to get it to work.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    2,377
    Well replaced the switch and still didn't work. So just looking at the power cord on the darn thing. No wonder it didn't work. Only the ground wire was still intact. Seems maybe a critter got in my garage and ate part of the wiring. So replaced the cord and off she went. Cleaned up the vise part and squirted some LPS #1 to keep it from rusting. So just saved about $300 to buy another one. But will be getting some Lennox bi-metallic blades in different teeth per inch. Thanks for all your help. Frank

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy Hdskip's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    195
    check out Grizzly . they offer switches and parts for their equipment and you may be able to adapt something. Prices are reasonable also

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    New Market, Iowa
    Posts
    1,466
    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    Of all the power tools I've run across, the on/off switches only break the hot wire.

    I've got a el-cheapo drill press that the switch went bad on, and I couldn't find a replacement.
    I mounted a 120V house hold light switch in a blue plastic box a couple inches directly above it and ran the switch wires to it.

    So far, so good.
    I did the same thing on a Chinese bench grinder, except I was able to mount the box right on the grinder.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,454
    In a bind a piece of snug fitting tubing glued on the lever of the switch will extend it enough to work. On a lot an old arrow shaft may work,

    Older equipment had the electrical box and switch when new, todays panels are much more involved at times

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    2,377
    Actually, the toggle switch worked perfectly after I adjusted the tab that comes down with the saw and pushes the toggle to the off position. Tested it more than a couple times to make sure it worked. Thanks again. Frank

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    In a bind a piece of snug fitting tubing glued on the lever of the switch will extend it enough to work. On a lot an old arrow shaft may work,

    Older equipment had the electrical box and switch when new, todays panels are much more involved at times
    This is what I’ve done with my brake rotor/drum lathe. Got a 125v rated switch a put a piece of rubber vacuum hose over the toggle.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    2,377
    Thanks again, had a longer toggle on the switch I had in one of my storage bins. But replaced the old one anyway. Frank

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master

    jonp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    8,281
    I just watched a video of a guy that bought an HF bandsaw on Craigs for $1500 I think. He also replaced that switch and had a problem with belt fitting. One called for was 2in too short so he went up an inch and still had to drill out the motor mounts to lengthen them a bit but otherwise likes it for 20in or so logs.

    How do you like yours? In your opinion, would it be suitable for a non professional to cut up some boards and posts
    I Am Descended From Men Who Would Not Be Ruled

    Fiat Justitia, Ruat Caelum

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check