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Thread: Removing Win 94 stuck front band screw

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
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    Removing Win 94 stuck front band screw

    I'm trying to disassemble the magazine tube from the barrel of a pre64 Win94 but having a problem with the front band screw. The rear band screw is out but was bent probably by movement under recoil so I'm thinking maybe the front screw is jammed somewhat in between the tube and barrel as it won't turn. Even though there is no visible rust I soaked it with Kroil but it won't budge. I used the best fitting gun bit but the screw head is pretty buggered up at this point. I've already ordered replacements for both screws so not concerned about saving it. Any suggestions for getting this one out without destroying the band in the process?
    Thanks...

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Jan 2013
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    sw pa
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    i you are very carefull; center punch the opposite side of the screw head. and CAREFULLY drill a small hole in the threaded side. maybe a 1/16 drill; then go bigger; a little at a time. the thread purchase is less that 1/8 in. this usually works when you get close to the thread.

  3. #3
    Boolit Bub
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    Apr 2007
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    Best way when you are desperate like this LOL is to use a 1/4" bit and holder. Chuck up the holder in a drill press, put the gun under the bit then bear down on the drill press handle and turn the drill press chuck by hand, I like to put a 1/4" box wrench on the shaft of the bit holder. If you get REALLY desperate you can also add heat on the back side of the band where the screw is threaded in.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    If you have an electric soldering gun heat it up and work ball of solder on the tip use this to heat the screw up before trying to turn.
    The drill press also helps a lot, better with a second set of hands.Heat may expand the screw making it slightly longer releasing the pressure on the head.
    If you can get it held solid a screw driver in the slot and some light tapping with a light hammer for a few minutes may loosen it

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
    AZ Pete's Avatar
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    where did you order the replacements? Looking for a rear band screw myself. I will also suggest heat, in the event that lock tite has been used on the screw.
    NRA Endowment Life Member

  6. #6
    Boolit Master pietro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ Pete View Post
    where did you order the replacements? Looking for a rear band screw myself.

    https://homesteadparts.com/shop/barr...tml?cPath=1_10
    Experience is a wonderful thing - It lets you recognize a mistake, when you make it again.

  7. #7
    Boolit Man
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    Thanks for the suggestions.

    Numrich has both screws in stock.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
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    Long penetrating oil soak to loosen up screws ...
    The Secrete - 50/50 mix Automatic Transmission Fluid ( GM ) & Acetone = the best penetrating oil ever devised ... this has been tested and beats all the rest hands down .
    So Simple ... So Effective ,
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables

  9. #9
    Boolit Master pietro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    Long penetrating oil soak to loosen up screws ...
    The Secrete - 50/50 mix Automatic Transmission Fluid ( GM ) & Acetone = the best penetrating oil ever devised ... this has been tested and beats all the rest hands down .
    So Simple ... So Effective ,
    Gary

    Acetone isn't so great for stock finish, though...….

    .
    Experience is a wonderful thing - It lets you recognize a mistake, when you make it again.

  10. #10
    Moderator & CBPAO


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    I've had trouble with that screw in the past, as probably every gunsmith has. It can be a real problem to get out sometimes, and can be almost as big a problem to get the new one in. If there is some way you can get the slot to accept a screwdriver again you might get it to move after a couple of drops of Kroil and overnight to penetrate. Lay the rifle flat on your workbench and put the oil on the threaded side. As you know, the magazine tube slides back and forth under the barrel, and the screw passes through notches in the bottom of the barrel and the top of the magazine tube. Sometimes there is a little play there and the magazine tube is moved just a fraction of an inch one way or the other, forward or backward, and the two notches are no longer quite aligned properly and bind the screw. So you could also try tapping the magazine tube a bit with the edge of a wooden dowel and a small hammer to realign the notches and see if that might make turning the screw out easier. You could try drilling the head end, easier than the shaft end, and when you got past the notches I mentioned above you could withdraw the magazine tube and the grasp the threaded stub with some pliers and turn it out. That would save your threaded hole. It would require a good drill press and a good set up to do it that way. But first I'd try to get a useable slot cut back into the screw head and try the Kroil. I had a couple of these that I ended up having to drill and tap a larger hole, make the notches a bit larger, and use a larger screw.

    DG

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    Drm50's Avatar
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    These screws are known to be troublesome. The best thing to do is treat them that way from get go. Use correct bit for screw head and have gun in secure position. Know when to quit if it’s not breaking lose. I usually have more trouble with rear band screw. They get slightly bent and are forced cross threaded. Once screw head is buggered it’s easiest to drill out than mess around with micro easy outs and such.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    Der Gebirgsjager always explains things so well. And I'm not alone in appreciating it, I'm sure.
    He and DRM50 ( among others) bring real gunsmith experience to the discussion- thanks, gentlemen.

    Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

  13. #13
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    Thanks for the nice compliment. You're a pretty good gunsmith yourself, young fella!
    DG

  14. #14
    Boolit Man
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    Well I got the screw out without using any harsh methods. Even though there was no visible rust I did let it soak with Kroil for the past six days. It was mentioned on first post the rear bracket screw was bent when removed so I figured the front was bound up a bit. I had a short piece of 3/8 solid fiberglass rod so put a 38 Special case on each end and used as a brass punch to tap on the low edge of the bracket between the barrel and mag tube from the front and back. Got a 1/4 turn and it tightened up again so I tapped both directions again and it was freed up to turn.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check