Titan ReloadingMidSouth Shooters SupplyRotoMetals2Repackbox
Inline FabricationReloading UKADvertise hereLee Precision

Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: 300BO and 45 ACP SS cutoff jigs

  1. #1
    Moderator

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,466

    300BO and 45 ACP SS cutoff jigs

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	WfiB04z.png 
Views:	19 
Size:	8.2 KB 
ID:	282264
    Got my 3D printer, I may be a bit busy assembling that for the next few days.

    Been designing stuff in OpenSCAD like a maniac, jigs, ammo boxes, custom powder dippers, you name it The image is from OpenSCAD, of my 45 ACP SS jig and 300 BO cutoff jig designs, black is the part that'll be printed, the purple part will be removed to give a place for the case to fit & the slot is for the cutoff's saw to index on (I made it 25 mils, the blade is 20 mils thick, a tiny bit of error is acceptable.)

    Filament's arriving soon so I am SO looking forward to printing some fun stuff I can use

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


    MrWolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    NE West Virginia
    Posts
    3,346
    What type of filament will you be using for these? PLA, PTEG, etc. Thanks.
    Ron

  3. #3
    Moderator

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,466
    PLA+ is the first filament I bought, purple and black spools; I rather like the color Purple, but suspect I'll print the 300BO one in black, just because

    PLA+ is like PLA but copes with heat better, I will have to see if it can cope with the horrid heat of Seattle area climates or not, or if it goes soft and slumps like regular PLA. Things to sit in the car need to cope well with heat, but cutoff jigs aren't usually used in a car unless you're really hardcore?

    Local gent made his own 3d printer from 2020 Aluminum Extrusions and PLA 3D printed parts, showed it at a local robotics club meeting, but then on the way home left it in the car as he ran into a store to buy a few things; When he came back out his 3d printer was no longer sitting nice and orthogonal, it had slumped, and he had to get all the printed parts re-printed by a friend. I could hear the screams of frustration from here...

    I'm pretty sure those in Arizona etc. can tell us what filaments are best for hot climes!

  4. #4
    Moderator

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,466
    Oh. And I plan to get PETG filament soon, may buy carbon fiber filament earlier though, first I need to build this printer then calibrate it

  5. #5
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    4,922
    I think your going to need the bottom open to get the cases in and out.

  6. #6
    Moderator

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,466
    These hold half the case so plan was to push the cut case out of the way with the next case, then trim, rinse, repeat. if you looked at the design from the end, the top half of the case is in free air so pushing on it will make the case pop out quite easily. Might have to vacuum up some brass dust occasionally but plan is to have a mini shopvac's hose right there cleaning up, so not an issue...

  7. #7
    Boolit Master


    MrWolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    NE West Virginia
    Posts
    3,346
    I am fighting with PETG now. It likes it hotter. Nozzle at 240 and bed at 85. I am having adhesion issues after a short time. Think I've tried ever z offset, print speed, etc. Getting frustrated with it but I will find my printers sweet spot on it
    - someday

  8. #8
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    34
    Im far from an expert on the subject since I started printing a few months ago. But my petg adhesion issues were solved with elmers glue stick, 85/90 bed and 235/225 extruder temp, 30-40% fan, and leveling with a .004 feeler gauge. I tried aqua net and it worked on small parts but larger prints warped after a few hours. Sugar water works also. I broke my glass when I tried to remove my first glue stick print since it was still a little warm. I wait for the bed to completely cool now.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Space Coast, FL
    Posts
    1,828
    So as an observer am I to understand that 3D printing stuff out is kind of like reloading is cheaper?

  10. #10
    Moderator

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,466
    It can be, only you can make things you cannot afford to buy, oh wait that's like reloading too...

    I've found that one of the hardest things is getting someone to print you something, seems like once they get printing they end up with the printer going 100% on their own goodies.

    Sorta like "when you have a hammer, all problems look like nails" maybe?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check