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Thread: how i color brass to identify it from similar brass

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    how i color brass to identify it from similar brass

    when i bought a 7BR XP-100 new in 1980, i also bought forming dies and loading dies. playing around one day i formed about 50 old 30/06 brass to see if i could make them shoot with the large primer pocket and compare to the small primer pockets. thats just me...fast forward many years and i found them sitting just waiting for me to get with the program. i decided to color the large primer pocketed some how and i did it with DEF fluid...you thats right DEF ! i de greased the cases then put DEF fluid in a large pill bottle and left them a couple weeks before peeking...they needed a bit more time.....so i added a week. they look slightly camoflaged now with a random pattern. still smoothe no different feeling at all, and after several fireings still look pretty good. i assume that just sitting them upright in a shallow tray would do the same thing. i hope this helps someone who dosent want to buy brass black.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    Brownells Oxpho Blue liquid will do the same in just a few seconds.
    Spell check doesn't work in Chrome, so if something is spelled wrong, it's just a typo that I missed.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

    Wayne Smith's Avatar
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    DEF? It would help to have a context.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  4. #4
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Smith View Post
    DEF? It would help to have a context.
    Diesel exhaust fluid

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  5. #5
    Boolit Master trails4u's Avatar
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    Would the urea in the DEF not be leeching alloy from your brass??
    "Do not follow where the path might lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail" Ralph Waldo Emerson

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    405grain's Avatar
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    Soaking brass cartridge cases for weeks in acid solution to change it's color doesn't sound like a very good idea. It's a lot easier to just mark the cases with a Sharpie.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master trails4u's Avatar
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    "Urea is slightly alkaline with a PH of ~ 9.0. Since its composition is 67.5% water it should not be kept in
    contact with aluminum, brass or mild steel. Urea contact will rust steel, oxidize aluminum and leech
    brass"

    ...from the interwebs.
    "Do not follow where the path might lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail" Ralph Waldo Emerson

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    A colored Sharpie works for me.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Just cut a nick on the case rim .... done forever
    Regards
    John

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    Colored Sharpe on the primer for me also then write down what it stands for.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    winelover's Avatar
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    I use sharpies, on primers, for day to day load changes. For more permanent brass markings, I use Birchwood Casey's Brass Black to color the head stamp. When I shorten brass, ie 44 Magnum to 44 Special, I take a Dremmel with tiny rotary file and erase the Mag on the head stamp.YMMV

    Winelover

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    You can put them in blackland dirt and let it rain on them once...

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Stupid me for just marking the rim!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Tumble all you want to get squeaky clen brass and they stay true.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check