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Thread: Stuck Case Remover

  1. #1
    Boolit Master


    Omega's Avatar
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    Stuck Case Remover

    Has anyone tried this one?
    https://www.frankfordarsenal.com/rel...r/1078192.html
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1078192-frankford-arsenal-1078192-platinum-series-stuck-case-remover-tool-for-dies-2.jpeg 
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    I have this Lyman one, and it works good, but I ran into the FA one at a cheap price and decided to try it. Ended up getting it for $13.58 shipped from Outdoor Limited, figured it was worth it to give it a try. Looks like it will be much faster and you don't have to disassemble the die.
    "Freedom is the sure possession of those alone who have the courage to defend it."
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  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Back in the early 1990's, I had one of the RCBS kits. A shipmate offered me way more money than I had in it, so it became his.

    Since then I have been using a ¼-28 tap, bolt and washer, and a deep well socket to fit over the case.

    I can see how that would work well, but I am trying not to stick anymore cases (finally).

    Robert

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I also have been using a ¼-28 tap, bolt and washer, and a deep well socket to fit over the case, never needed to spend much money for one as I very seldom stick a case.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    John Guedry's Avatar
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    I have one of the "put together" variety that works just fine. Cheaper too !
    Old retired guy in Baton Rouge La.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    My first stuck case was a 7mm mag that pulled the head off the case leaving nothing to grab or tap. FL sizing of a belted case is not always a good plan. I removed the decapper rod and stuffed some paper towel in the neck of the stuck case and filled the stuck case with melted lead. Then I put the die in the press and drove the case out with a punch.

    I no longer fl size and I switched to Imperial or Unique case lube and no more stuck cases or case head separations.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    I have the RCBS kit just in case, but Imperial Sizing Wax hasn’t let me down yet.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    That looks pretty much like mine. It was $5 at the hardware store.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    best not to stick one you wont after the first one . so get good lube

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Guedry View Post
    I have one of the "put together" variety that works just fine. Cheaper too !
    I have one of these too. Only had to use it once for a 6mm Rem case but that was over 40 yrs ago. Once was enough!

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Omega View Post
    Has anyone tried this one?
    https://www.frankfordarsenal.com/rel...r/1078192.html
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1078192-frankford-arsenal-1078192-platinum-series-stuck-case-remover-tool-for-dies-2.jpeg 
Views:	35 
Size:	62.7 KB 
ID:	282187
    I have this Lyman one, and it works good, but I ran into the FA one at a cheap price and decided to try it. Ended up getting it for $13.58 shipped from Outdoor Limited, figured it was worth it to give it a try. Looks like it will be much faster and you don't have to disassemble the die.
    That looks like an interesting departure from the normal stuck case remover. I have the RCBS version and I've used it more for others than for myself. The good thing about the RCBS is that it comes with a plastic box and will stack with your dies.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Baltimoreed's Avatar
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    Not hard to unstick a case with a drill press. Drill and tap the primer pocket, use a spacer, a washer, nut and a piece of 1/4 in all thread screwed into the case. Screw the nut down on the all thread with the washer jammed against the spacer, add a drop of oil too [a socket will work for a spacer]. The case will come right out. I unfortunately stick .300 blkout all the time.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Really easy to remove one using a die that was designed from the start with the ability to remove a stuck case, like Dillon or Lee.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    I made my own with a fender washer, 3/8" socket (diameter to fit your die base), and a bolt. Drill out the case and tap to the bolt threads. It didn't cost anything since I had all the parts.

    redhawk

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  14. #14
    Boolit Bub monkey wrangler's Avatar
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    Maybe I am a little rough but I have just unthreaded the decapping pin and put the die over a hole that the brass fits into and put a long punch down inside from the top and smack it with a hammer and out it comes easy and fast. But I try not to stick cases anymore.
    Life is tough, but it's tougher when you're stupid. John Wayne


  15. #15
    Boolit Master 44magLeo's Avatar
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    I stuck a 270 case in a Lyman Die. I bought an RCBS case remover. All i managed to do was pull the bolt out of the case. Tried the next bigger bolt size and pull that out too.
    My local gun store sent it back to Lyman. It was stuck so bad they sent me a new die. I STP oil additive as a lube. As reccomended by other loaders atthe time. I started using more expencive lubes as sold by RCBS with the lube pad. Never really liked that. Putting the right amount on the pad was tricky. To much gave you dents, Not enough you got stickky sizing.
    But lived with it. I then tried Lee's Case lube. A bit on the palm of your hand and roll the case between gives you just the right amount every time. And your hands were always cleaner than that old lube pad.
    I recently bought some Imperial sizing wax. It is a bit slicker than the LeoLee but the Lee is water soluble so cleaning the lube of the brass is easier.
    Leo

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ioon44 View Post
    I also have been using a ¼-28 tap, bolt and washer, and a deep well socket to fit over the case, never needed to spend much money for one as I very seldom stick a case.
    This is what I use as well. Works as well or better than any commercial unit I've tried.

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy
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    I've only used the hammer once.

    A new decapping rod w/ball expander for my RCBS 30-06 dies is $7.99 delivered via Amazon Prime. I have neck sizing dies and FL dies in 30-06, so destroying the decapping rod on my FL dies didn't even slow me down, I just swapped out the rods and kept processing the 500 or so crimped military brass I was working through.

    Not a delicate solution, and many will judge me as being heavy handed, but it was the expedient solution. I hit the "Buy Now" button right before I grabbed the rod with a pair of visegrips and hit it with a 24oz. ball peen.

    JM

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    Cases get stuck in sizer dies for one reason - poor lubrication! It can be due to a poor lube choice OR from putting too little lube on the case, down near the web, where it's needed most. Fact is, ALL commercial case lubes and a lot of substitutes work fine IF they are applied correctly.

    Seems the most common stuck case remover is the bolt-and-socket type. Most use a 1/4" by 20 (coarse) thread. A few use 1/4" by 24 (fine) thread. IMHO, that's a mistake because fine threads are shallower and can strip out of the soft brass easier than the deeper cut coarse threads. (And it's best to use a grade #8 - high strength - bolt to keep it from wringing off and leaving you worse off than before!)

  19. #19
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    A) To answer the OP, no I haven't used one, it would be interesting to hear from someone who has. It would be nice to know if with the allen wrench you could generate enough clamping pressure to hold on to the case to pull it out.

    B) I was taught too many years ago that fine thread was stronger than coarse thread. But I've been wrong before, just ask my mother-in-law.

    Shamelessly stolen from a bolt website:
    Size for size, a fine thread is stronger than a coarse thread. This is both in tension (because of the larger stress area) and shear (because of their larger minor dia*meter).
    Because of the smaller pitch, they allow finer adjustments in applications that need such a feature.
    Fine threads can be more easily tapped into hard materials and thin-walled tubes.
    Fine threads require less torque to develop equivalent bolt preloads.
    Fine threads have less tendency to loosen since the thread incline is smaller and hence so is the off torque.

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I rarely stuck a case in the sizing die.
    Maybe three times that I can remember.
    But I have had to do it many times for friends.
    I do the drill and tap way like everyone else.
    But sometimes the depriming pin gets in the way, and gets damaged.
    I saw this on utube, and it looks like it could work.
    Haven't had a chance to try it, as no one has stuck a case in a while.
    Anyone ever try this way????
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vnEW63DO4Q

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check