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Thread: Is there a way to get copper alloyed with pure lead?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Is there a way to get copper alloyed with pure lead?

    Hi Guys,

    Let me preface this by saying that, yes, I did try a couple of searches before asking this.

    It seems to me that several years back, there was a discussion about getting copper melted in the lead pot with pure lead, for the purpose of creating a high BHN boolit. As I recall, it involved melting some sort of lawn product that had copper flakes in the pot. As I type that, I realize how nutty that sounds.

    Does that sound familiar to anyone? Has anyone here found a useful way to melt copper into the lead alloy? I don’t have an easy source of antimony or tin, but I’ve got a fair amount of pure lead old pipe, and I’ve got plenty of copper wire. Just wondering how I might blend some copper into the melt to get a hard boolit.

    Thanks,

    8mmFan

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


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    The melting point of copper is almost 1900F, pretty tough to reach those kind of temperatures for the home gamer. You can acquire Linotype or monotype from Rotometals, alloy your lead pipe with that for harder projectiles. Much simpler with predictable results. You can always scrap the copper to defray the cost of the Linotype. Just my opinion, others will differ. Good luck.
    “Let us endeavor so to live that when we come to die even the undertaker will be sorry.”
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    W8SOB

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Sil-fos 18 melts lower but it's not cheap.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    high standard 40's Avatar
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    I remember the thread about alloying copper with lead. Sorry, but I can't help with referencing it. Perhaps it was copper sulfate that was used.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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  6. #6
    Banned
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    Buy Zep root killer (copper sulfide), sprinkle it on top of the lead (the lead will need tin or zinc for the copper sulfide to replace), and wait until the Zep dries out completely stir it in.

    ** copper sulfide/any sulfide/sulfur stinks and will but your nose so wear a mask***

    easier, buy Babbit https://www.rotometals.com/babbitt-bearing-alloys/
    and alloy it in.
    abbitt name ASTM B23 /
    QQ-T-390 Lead % Tin % Antimony % Copper % Melting Point Pouring Temperature
    Number 1 Grade 1 0% 90-92% 4-5% 4-5% 433F 825F
    RotoNickel -.15% Monel Grade 2 0% 88-90% 7-8% 3-4% 466F 795F
    Super Tough Grade 3 0% 83-85% 7.5-8.5% 7.5-8.5% 464F 915F
    Grade 11 (SAE-11) Grade 11 0% 86-89% 6-7.5% 5-6.5% 470F 620F
    Copper Hard Grade 6 + 50-52% 35-37% 11-13% 0.5-1.5% 360F 655F
    Formula 0 Heavy Pressure Grade 7 74-76% 9.3-10.7% 14-16% 0% 464F 640F
    Number 4 Hardware - 84-86% 1-2% 12-14% 0% 473F 625F
    Grade 13 Grade 13 83-85% 5.5-6.5% 9.5-10.5% 0% 485F 620F
    Merit Babbitt 73-75% 9-10% 15-17% 0% 450F 645F
    Royal Grade 8 79-81% 4.5-5.5% 14-16% 0% 459F 645F

    some have had success fluxing in thin copper strips/wire

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    FASCINATING stuff!!!! Thanks for sharing, everyone!

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Go to your local ag supply house, and get copper sulfate crystals, can buy as little or as much as you need. Sprinkle it on your melt surface, let it dry, and then stir under . There are two stickies on this page on this very subject!! It’ll add to your alloy. No expert here, I just read about it, tried it and am waiting to shoot the cast boolits now. Good luck.
    I firmly believe that you should only get treated by how you act, not by who or what you are!!

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
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    I’ve heard of people using speaker wire. It has very fine strands and is normally tinned. However, I would look for an alloy with copper already mixed in to add to your melt.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    You may want to keep in mind that there will be a factor when the copper in the solution will be saturated and begin to precipitate out as the alloy cools. If you are one of those "if a little is good, more is better", you could be in trouble. The copper crystals will reform where the alloy is cooler than the rest of the melt, this will be on the surface as well as at the nozzle of a bottom pour pot.

    If you are casting in cooler ambient air temps, with copper added to the melt, and you begin to get nozzle blockage, just turn up the heat or apply some heat from a torch to the nozzle and open the valve to clear the nozzle.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Handloader109's Avatar
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    If you guys go the link Conditor22 posted, the ONLY babbit that has BOTH lead and copper is the copper hard which only has from .5 to 1.5% copper in it. AND it is 35% TIN. If you want to use that for bullets, I'd just buy a few pounds as you won't get nearly the .5% in unless the tin is way more than what most of us use. 90% lead won't work.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Use broken pennies for the Zn with root killer. You need ~0.5% Cu and it shoots great. Hard and malleable.
    Whatever!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check