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Thread: Just smelted some wheel weights for the first time

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Just smelted some wheel weights for the first time

    Hello all,

    I just melted some of my first wheel weights. And I was wondering if there's any issue to that my "stainless" pot and spoons seemed to start rusting after a bit of stirring and fluxing?

    I used candle wax to fflux. Also, it seemed that the film (dross?) on top of the melted lead would NEVER go away completely even after fluxing a few times. Is this film actually just slightly cooler lead? Or is the spoon I'm using leeching into the lead and causing more dross? It doesn't say stainless on it, but it seemed very much like it was... Until is started rusting mid smelt!

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Is it rusting or just accumulating junk on it? If you’re not sure, leave the spoon in the melt for a few minutes. When it’s hot the lead won’t stick.

    The film on top is oxidized lead, tin, etc. It forms more quickly at higher temps, but it always forms. I prefer pine wood shavings plus a little wax for fluxing, it makes a dust that’s easier to remove, wax alone always seems to be a little oily for me.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimB.. View Post
    Is it rusting or just accumulating junk on it? If you’re not sure, leave the spoon in the melt for a few minutes. When it’s hot the lead won’t stick.

    The film on top is oxidized lead, tin, etc. It forms more quickly at higher temps, but it always forms. I prefer pine wood shavings plus a little wax for fluxing, it makes a dust that’s easier to remove, wax alone always seems to be a little oily for me.
    I left the spoon in there for quite awhile and the film on top would just want to stick to it most of the time. It was definitely hot enough. I think I may have had the heat too high and that could be why the film formed so fast. The film that would stick to my spoon and that I'd skim off looked shiny like lead :/

    A. I don't want to keep skimming and skimming and skimming and wasting my lead if that's what it is I'm skimming off.
    B. I think I might steel my kitchen spoon I know is stainless if the rust is causing the excessive dross.
    C. Hopefully the cheapo spoon I picked up from the thrift store isn't leeching some other metal into my lead ruining it

    The picture shows what looks like rust on my spoon.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Doesn’t look like rust to me. Regardless, rust will not cause / promote dross.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Looks a little yellow colored to me. Maybe some lead oxides?

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    Maybe! I just did some more and stole a spoon from the kitchen labeled stainless. No rusty looking stuff. I kept the temperature lower, used a different wax to flux, and it seemed to work a little better. It seemed like the film or dross, still not sure if that what it is, still formed faster than I would think but it went much better!

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    That looks like you were way hot. Are you using a thermometer? If so, what was the temp of the first pot vs the second?

  8. #8
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
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    Just skim off the heavy chunks after fluxing and start casting. My spoon metal is not stainless, but the knife is. Both look real bad. Not an issue, or anything i worry about. But if you melt the spoon, that would be a problem.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master

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    It sounds like you are off to a good start. That stuff looks like oxides to me. Flux it and try to induce it back in. I smelt in bigger batches than you probably do and I save all of the dross from one melt and dump it into the next one. I prefer stainless tools for stiring and cast iron for my ladles.
    Last edited by lightman; 05-01-2021 at 09:45 PM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimB.. View Post
    That looks like you were way hot. Are you using a thermometer? If so, what was the temp of the first pot vs the second?
    Nope. I'd planned to use the thermocouple I have for my multimeter and then realized it's the bare wire and beaded tip type rather than having a stainless probe. On the second pot, I had my propane burner, which is the typical turkey fryer type, at a low lazy blue flame.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    Is there a thread on here someone can point me to that has details on how to know when you're done fluxing, why/when to use sawdust instead of wax, what kind of sawdust, etc?

  12. #12
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
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    http://www.lasc.us/FryxellFluxing.htm I just use bullet lube, 50/50 Bees wax/Alox. Or RCBS Pistol lube.

  13. #13
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    Thanks for the link!

    And ugh!!! I think I removed a bunch of my time and tossed it in my steel we bucket due for recycling I'll have to dig what I can back out and see if I can get it reduces back into the ingots I made.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    The spoon I use is stainless and is always coated black ... not an issue stirring through the flux which has turned it black with dross
    Regards
    John

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Boy View Post
    The spoon I use is stainless and is always coated black ... not an issue stirring through the flux which has turned it black with dross
    After using some cedar shavings for flux, it seems to have cured the ills of my "rusty" spoon. It's now just black.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check