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Thread: J B Weld as a stock repair?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    J B Weld as a stock repair?

    I have a gray/black plastic(?) composite stock with a small (1'x1'+) hole in it. It looks to me as if I can move the plastic foam filler around, allowing me to fill in the hole with a semi liquid filler such as J B Weld. Anybody know if that stuff will bond to the stock material? Thanks. Also, if it will can I color it using lamp-black?
    R.D.M.

  2. #2
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    It'll depend on what the stock is made of.
    It'll bond to properly prepped laminates that are more or less an epoxy themselves.
    If it's just plain plastic, I'd try it, but wouldn't get my hopes up.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    My neighbor broke is sling mount on his 770. From using a bipod. It has a synthetic stock. I shaved off the old mount. Drilled a hole. And put sling stud in. Reinforced it with J.B weld. It's been holding up good.
    One round at a time.
    Member of the NRA,GOA and FAOC. Gun clubs Zerby rod and gun club. Keystone Fish and Game Association.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    It will repair wood stocks too. I have also used it for glass bedding stocks, works great. Like anything proper preparation is key to success.

  5. #5
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    I drill, sand, turn, machine, cut, shape, tap, etc JB weld in and on almost any properly cleaned and prepared surface you can think of! Just watch watch for oily woods like teak!


    banger

  6. #6
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    gwpercle's Avatar
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    If JB Weld wont stick to it ... try Gorilla Glue ... the stuff glued the large glass plate out of the micro wave oven when it broke in half ... heavy plate too , its been 6 months + in micro wave use .
    Wife has Nativity scene made of beeswax figures , Josephs head broke off and I glued it back on ... what glue sticks to Beeswax ??? Evidently Gorilla Glue !
    It says Clear Gorilla Glue , no number on bottle , not for polyethylene or polypropylene plastics , it's a one part glue (no mixing) and is holding a thick heavy glass plate and beeswax Joseph's head on .
    Package says " Bonds virtually anything" and I believe it ...plus glue doesn't harden in the bottle .
    Gary
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  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    JB Weld makes a two part mix Plastic Bonder High Strength Structural Adhesive that will probably work. Instructions say apply with appropriate tool in an even coat, weld bead or extruded shape. Sets in 15 minutes. Cures in 30 minutes. Color is black.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    This is an irregular shaped hole and the piece is missing. It is about one and a half inches above the butt, on the right side (away from shooter's face) and there is some sort of closed-cell foam that can be moved around inside the stock cavity. I can get the foam to cover the bottom of the hole, so I can fill to the depth of the stock material (maybe one tenth of an inch). The alternative is to buy a new stock and since this will be a sort of glorified truck gun I do not want to spend more than I need to. Functional is good.
    R.D.M.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I believe Devcon cures black. Is that the color of your stock (more black than gray? I also rate its shock or impact strength a bit higher than JB Weld as its pretty brittle.

    Besides Devcon, I also like Super Mend for impact resistance but it cures off white.

    Three44s
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    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    When you make the joint take out the foam bigger than the hole, this allows the epoxy to form a mechanical lock to hold it in place

  11. #11
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    In a similar vein on gluing "stuff"......any "stuff"

    Now that I do not cast and reload due to shortages, I am back full-time at my ORIGINAL life-long hobby of restoring antique clocks.
    Recently I have been "attacked" by several very old and extremely nice/valuable antique clocks where some lamebrain dufuss used Gorilla glue in and on all the joints that had loosened up with age. The garbage swelled up and ran out of the non-clamped joints and now it is my job to soften up the garbage (acetone!), scrape all joints clean and re-glue with the appropriate wood glue, CLAMPING ever single joint. WARNING: If you do not clamp your wood joints, don't even bother with good quality glue! Just use pan-head Phillips screws and Gorilla glue (none of which existed 200+ years age!) to hold a 200 year piece together! Some do! I cannot believe that if some nitwit thinks, that just because they can fix a lawnmower engine or over haul a truck motor they can fix and repair valuable delicate antiques. Really gets my dander up.

    These same comments apply to anyone restoring antique firearms, storage boxes, and antique furniture. Or building ANYTHING out of wood!

    Sorry for the rant, but I just finished 4 hours of cleaning and scraping ALL the joints in a 250 year old banjo clock that was attacked by some numb-nut using Gorilla glue. And NO clamps! And Phillips-head screws! Use it for gluing your house number on bricks and leave the REAL quality work to Titebond II or similar glues.

    I am a professional woodworker, re-finisher and antique restorer and have seen just about everything!

    banger

  12. #12
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    I glued a Pachmyr (sp) decelerator recoil pad on a plastic stocked Savage 116 in .338 WinMag to replace the factory brick. I roughed it up and created some small mechanical locks for the glue inside the stock.

    It worked, but a brown pad and black stock with a gray glue line looked terrible.

    The final solution was a spray paint camo job.

    Robert

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEKVT View Post
    JB Weld makes a two part mix Plastic Bonder High Strength Structural Adhesive that will probably work. Instructions say apply with appropriate tool in an even coat, weld bead or extruded shape. Sets in 15 minutes. Cures in 30 minutes. Color is black.
    Forgot about automotive body filler ...Bondo has been used for years on synthetic stocks...
    It sticks well and comes in black or grey .
    Gary
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    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bangerjim View Post
    In a similar vein on gluing "stuff"......any "stuff"

    Now that I do not cast and reload due to shortages, I am back full-time at my ORIGINAL life-long hobby of restoring antique clocks.
    Recently I have been "attacked" by several very old and extremely nice/valuable antique clocks where some lamebrain dufuss used Gorilla glue in and on all the joints that had loosened up with age. The garbage swelled up and ran out of the non-clamped joints and now it is my job to soften up the garbage (acetone!), scrape all joints clean and re-glue with the appropriate wood glue, CLAMPING ever single joint. WARNING: If you do not clamp your wood joints, don't even bother with good quality glue! Just use pan-head Phillips screws and Gorilla glue (none of which existed 200+ years age!) to hold a 200 year piece together! Some do! I cannot believe that if some nitwit thinks, that just because they can fix a lawnmower engine or over haul a truck motor they can fix and repair valuable delicate antiques. Really gets my dander up.

    These same comments apply to anyone restoring antique firearms, storage boxes, and antique furniture. Or building ANYTHING out of wood!

    Sorry for the rant, but I just finished 4 hours of cleaning and scraping ALL the joints in a 250 year old banjo clock that was attacked by some numb-nut using Gorilla glue. And NO clamps! And Phillips-head screws! Use it for gluing your house number on bricks and leave the REAL quality work to Titebond II or similar glues.

    I am a professional woodworker, re-finisher and antique restorer and have seen just about everything!

    banger
    I'm sorry I mentioned G*****a G**e I thought we were repairing a synthetic gunstock ...no harm intended ... and I'm sorry for mentioning Bondo ... I'm sure Clock Restorers frown on it's use also .
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    I'm sorry I mentioned G*****a G**e I thought we were repairing a synthetic gunstock ...no harm intended ... and I'm sorry for mentioning Bondo ... I'm sure Clock Restorers frown on it's use also .
    Gary
    Everything has it's place in my workshops.!!!!!!!!!! I do not use a screwdriver for a chisel or a crescent wrench as a hammer.

    So many people on here have a very wide variation of hobbies and interests. I thought my incite on "glues" and woodworking (gun stocks?????) might help someone out someday.

    Stay safe!


    banger

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by bangerjim View Post
    Everything has it's place in my workshops.!!!!!!!!!! I do not use a screwdriver for a chisel or a crescent wrench as a hammer.

    So many people on here have a very wide variation of hobbies and interests. I thought my incite on "glues" and woodworking (gun stocks?????) might help someone out someday.

    Stay safe!


    banger
    Funny how something insightful can become inciteful.
    Don Verna


  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    Several years ago I rebuilt my center console boat. Essentially, I put the hull in a custom cradle, cut everything out of it down to a bare hull and then rebuilt the stringers, bulkheads, etc... all the way back up to the deck. I still have a lot of epoxy, cut glass and cabosil (fumed silica) left over from the project and I use that to do repairs such as this.
    JB weld works great for metal based repairs, but I prefer epoxy with some glass mixed into it. You can always cut up fiberglass insulation and use that with epoxy. A trick is to thin the epoxy with acetone so that it absorbs through the fiberglass better.
    “Coincidence is God’s way of remaining anonymous.”

  18. #18
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    I use Marine-Tex for metal repair, PC-7 also works well. For wood and fiberglass I use West Systems epoxy.

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by dverna View Post
    Funny how something insightful can become inciteful.
    Glad to see someone caught my "pun" on the word!

    banger

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