Converting military 30-06 to 8/57 mauser

[TNsailorman]

I first deprive the brass. Then I ream the flashole to deburr them. Then I cut or swage the primer crimp. Then comes the uniformity of the primer pocket. Then I run each case thru a Redding form and trim die. Then I cut the excess case to a rough length. Then they are full length sized. Next they are put in a Forster case trimmer that is set up to trim to the correct length ( 2.235” ) and inside neck ream in one pass. Next up is the inside and outside mouth champhering. Next they are checked with a Forster case length/ head space gage. Any deviation and they go back thru the FL and trim stages and again gaged. Last they will be double checked with a set of calipers. Below is before and after photos for those who wanted to see pictures. James. I am having trouble getting the pictures uploaded, will try again later.

[phaessler]

Sounds perfect, been doing it this same way for years. I added a harbor fright trim saw to my routine and a 3d printed jig from Etsy to speed it up.

[444ttd]

i'm going reform one fired '06 brass to 7x57, 8x57 and 7.65x53.


right now i am using it to form 7x57

1. HF cut off saw and a 8x57 cut off jig
2. inside/outside chamfer
3. lube the case
4. 7x57 reloading die

i still have to do...
5. inside neck reaming
6. trim to 2.225"
7. inside/outside chamfer
8. anneal

[TNsailorman]

. Finally got them to go. I forgot to add that I now use a cut off saw just after the form and trim die. It was used for the first time this weekend on the reformed brass in the picture. I have a jig that I bought that makes it much quicker with saw. No longer need a hacksaw to cut the neck off in the form and trim die. I paid $20.00 for the jig and I consider it a bargain. I can do 5 cases with the saw and jig in less time than it took with on case with the hacksaw. Much cleaner cut too. james

[JM7.7x58]

I make 7.7x58mm Japanese from military 30-06. I have a piece of hardwood that I’ve step drilled for the neck and body of a 30-06.

My first step after depriming is to insert the 30-06 case into the stepped hole and trim what sticks out with a 18 tpi hacksaw with pressure applied in the wrong direction. This course blade makes a decent cut with pressure applied to the backstroke only.

I don’t own a trim die. This works for me.

JM

[Maven]

I do this as well, but with a form & trim die is there really a need to FL size? Also, a light anneal, e.g. using a candle, sometimes makes forming a bit easier. Lastly, don't trim the finished product to the exact/SAAMI spec. OAL, but leave them a few thousandths longer since they will "shrink" once the shoulders are filled out after firing.

[TNsailorman]

The way I have my form and trim die adjusted as well as the full length die, the new cartridge case just kisses the chamber on my sons mauser. A very light bit of pressure to close the bolt on the case. If I ever get another mauser for myself, I will change the adjustment slightly so the cases will fit that chamber. I did not mention in my first explanation of how I do 8x57 that I fit them to the specific rifle. When doing some for someone else, I set to the spec in the Hornady manual which is 2.230" to 2.240" OAL cartridge length, checking them on the Forster gage. I usually set the OAL as a generic of 2.236" or so. Headspace adjusted midway between the low and max. adjustment. I know there are more than one way to "skin a cat" but this is my way and it has always worked for me. Getting the adjustments just so so is the hard part, the rest is a matter of time and patience. Your mileage might vary, james

[ackleyman]

I still anneal with a propane torch and a bread pan with water in it, been using this technique since the 60's. Templaq is a big help.

Paul Bike makes an incredible set of form dies.

When forming down, I use a headspace gauge to run the die down to. I barely let the shoulder in the die touch the headspace gauge, or back it off just a touch. There is some spring back in the brass so this allows for some extra headspace for final full length sizing to exactly fit the brass for the chamber you are using...often they are long.

[Maven]

I should have added this to my earlier post: After fully forming my brass, I fully anneal the neck-shoulder area. After firing, I also check OAL and for "the dreaded donut" and fix both when necessary.

[TNsailorman]

I thought I would show a picture of my cut off jig. Sorry about the poor quality of the pictures.



The little bright spot in the 2 photos is a ball detent that fits into the extractor slot and holds the case in place while the saw cuts it off. YOu simply push a case into the holder and the detent captures it in place as you push the cut off case out. Simple and effective and fast. james

[Greg S]

My friend uses a Dillon RT1500 with a Dillon 8x57 sizing die. One n done - reaming or neck turning if required.