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Thread: Missouri Bullet Magic Alloy: Tips/Tricks?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Missouri Bullet Magic Alloy: Tips/Tricks?

    After some careful consideration of my options to begin casting, I had decided to get around 65 pounds of Magic Alloy from Missouri Bullets The price was, after shipping, about $2.50 a pound. Not exactly a bargain but considering it's an alloy with around 18BHN and ready to cast alloy, it was well worth not having to hassle with processing the lead myself.

    I have yet to make the rounds of finding lead sources in my area, and my processing equipment is only an 8lb RCBS pot. Enough to get the job done but not exactly efficient for processing lead.

    I'm only planning on casting for .9mm, .38 Special, and .45 ACP: nothing that requires the alloy to be very hard. Would it be recommended to "cut" the Magic Alloy with Pure lead or COWW that we would source later? I want to make the best value out of my fairly expensive lead, and I don't want to waste any of its hardness, so to speak.

    The Magic Alloy came in a set of approximately 8lb ingots so at least I have an opportunity to experiment.

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    Not sure about the 9mm but I'd want it softer for the other calibers.
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

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    I use their lead all the time: it’s about the same as Lyman #2 works fine.

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    If it was mine, I’d cut it with pure.
    I use 50/50 COWW/Pure for everything except 9mm and 223. Both of those get straight COWW.
    I’ll be experimenting with them and the 50/50 this summer.

    I’ve used commercial hard cast boolits melted and mixed 30/70 with pure & 50/50 COWW-Pure with excellent results. I’ve used those in 30carbine, 32 Long, 32 H&R, 327, 32/20, 38, 357, 44/40, 45acp, 45 colt, 30/30 and 30-06.
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    Quote Originally Posted by VariableRecall View Post
    Magic Alloy from Missouri Bullets.... Would it be recommended to "cut" the Magic Alloy with Pure lead or COWW that we would source later? I want to make the best value out of my fairly expensive lead, and I don't want to waste any of its hardness, so to speak.
    On their site, they say it's 6Sb 2Sn 92Pb - same as Hardball alloy. Absolutely dilute that expensive stuff - for example, mix it 50/50 with pure and you'll have almost 12 Bhn and 1% tin.

    I have 10 lbs of Hardball and I'm planning on adding 30 lbs range scrap + 1/2 lbs of 50-50 bar solder to get a good alloy for most handguns at around 11 Bhn and around 1.25 % tin.
    Last edited by AndyC; 04-27-2021 at 09:49 PM.
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    Boolit Master
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    I'm a 10-12 Bhn guy here for almost everything. Try to find some old lead pipe or something to mix in.

    Or trade some of it.

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    Bear in mind that typical 22 bullets are very near pure and they go 1300 fps. The Star 45 185 grain hollow point bullets that were used for years and were the most liked bullets for accuracy when shooting bullseye and were pure lead as were all the hollow base 38 wad cutters. The only problem here is that these are all swaged and not cast. It is difficult to cast pure unless you get the temperature pretty high so it doesn't work well but pure with just some tin will cast fine. Pure is not that hard to find because roofing lead, electric wire shield, and plumbing is pure lead. The price for these with some tin even though the tin is expensive would be cheaper. 40 to one lead to tin would cast fine and shoot well unless used in a rifle. You could mix a lot of pure with what you have and still get good results. Your best bet would to mix a small quantity to see what you can get away with. I like to use a Bhn of 8 or so and I have no problems even in a 44 magnum at full power loads with H110 in an Anaconda which is incredibly accurate at full speed.

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    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyC View Post
    On their site, they say it's 6Sb 2Sn 92Pb - same as Hardball alloy. Absolutely dilute that expensive stuff - for example, mix it 50/50 with pure and you'll have almost 12 Bhn and 1% tin.

    I have 10 lbs of Hardball and I'm planning on adding 30 lbs range scrap + 1/2 lbs of 50-50 bar solder to get a good alloy for most handguns at around 11 Bhn and around 1.25 % tin.
    Thanks for the suggestion! I believe that 12BHN would be plenty for the applications I'm intending to use it with. Considering that I could almost double the potential castable lead that I could potentially make use of in the future.

    Would 8 lbs Clip on Wheel Weights with 8lbs of Magic Alloy lead to a reasonable result as well? I suppose pure lead would be softer but it's my understanding that COWW can run just fine with most pistol calibers on their own.

    I've heard of using certain styles of pencil leads as a impomptu test of BHN but at the moment I have no testing framework with which to test lead hardness other than my fingernail, and I'd rather keep my gloves on when I'm handling solid chunks of the stuff.
    Last edited by VariableRecall; 04-27-2021 at 10:21 PM.

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    Plinking loads are very forgiving except for the 9mm. Almost anything will work in .38 and .45 ACP

    I prefer traditional lubes, but if trying to save money, I would powder coat “iffy” alloy for the 9mm if I started getting leading. For me, the savings are not worth it. YMMV

    Try to look at the big picture as it applies to your needs. IIRC, you have primer cost/supply issues. If you can only afford to fire 1000 rounds of .38’s this year, that will use up less than 25 lbs of your commercial alloy. There is no such thing as “free” lead....after you factor in finding it and smelting it or having it shipped to you ...but let’s say you found 12 lbs of free lead. If you mixed it in at 50%, your maximum saving is 13 lbs of $2.50 alloy. So less than $35. The reality will be that “cheap” lead will cost you $1.25/ lb.....so you will save $17/1000.

    Very frugal people and/or those shooting thousands of rounds a year benefit from saving $17/1000. For low volume shooters, it seems a bit silly to worry about.

    Lastly, you will get advice from some people who got WW’s “free” in the good old days and have a lot stocked up. Those days are gone.
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    Quote Originally Posted by VariableRecall View Post
    Thanks for the suggestion! I believe that 12BHN would be plenty for the applications I'm intending to use it with. Considering that I could almost double the potential castable lead that I could potentially make use of in the future.

    Would 8 lbs Clip on Wheel Weights with 8lbs of Magic Alloy lead to a reasonable result as well? I suppose pure lead would be softer but it's my understanding that COWW can run just fine with most pistol calibers on their own.

    I've heard of using certain styles of pencil leads as a impomptu test of BHN but at the moment I have no testing framework with which to test lead hardness other than my fingernail, and I'd rather keep my gloves on when I'm handling solid chunks of the stuff.
    COWW and pure lead are what's commonly known as 50/50, and adding a little tin would give you the long favored 50/50+2% that works in just about anything. Adding COWW to your magic alloy would extend it but not necessarily soften it very much.
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  11. #11
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    Wheel weights alloy usually averages around 10-12bhn. Adding the magic alloy to coww would harden the coww.

    Pure lead is ~5bhn. If your are wanting to to stay around 12, get some pure to mix with the magic alloy.
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  12. #12
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyC View Post
    On their site, they say it's 6Sb 2Sn 92Pb - same as Hardball alloy. Absolutely dilute that expensive stuff - for example, mix it 50/50 with pure and you'll have almost 12 Bhn and 1% tin.

    I have 10 lbs of Hardball and I'm planning on adding 30 lbs range scrap + 1/2 lbs of 50-50 bar solder to get a good alloy for most handguns at around 11 Bhn and around 1.25 % tin.
    Thanks for the suggestion! I believe that 12BHN would be plenty for the applications I'm intending to use it with. Considering that I could almost double the potential castable lead that I could potentially make use of in the future.

    Would 8 lbs Clip on Wheel Weights with 8lbs of Magic Alloy lead to a reasonable result as well? I suppose pure lead would be softer but it's my understanding that COWW can run just fine with most pistol calibers on their own.

  13. #13
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    Missouri Bullet Magic Alloy: Tips/Tricks?

    Quote Originally Posted by VariableRecall View Post
    Thanks for the suggestion! I believe that 12BHN would be plenty for the applications I'm intending to use it with. Considering that I could almost double the potential castable lead that I could potentially make use of in the future.

    Would 8 lbs Clip on Wheel Weights with 8lbs of Magic Alloy lead to a reasonable result as well? I suppose pure lead would be softer but it's my understanding that COWW can run just fine with most pistol calibers on their own.

    I've heard of using certain styles of pencil leads as a impomptu test of BHN but at the moment I have no testing framework with which to test lead hardness other than my fingernail, and I'd rather keep my gloves on when I'm handling solid chunks of the stuff.
    On testing lead with pencils, I’ve been doing that for years with solid results. Not the most accurate but for my proposed it’s was more cost effective than the more expensive testers. Looked on Amazon where I got mine and they’re even on sale today.

    Staedtler Mars Lumograph Art Drawing Pencils, 12 Pack Graphite Pencils in Metal Case, Break-Resistant Bonded Lead, 100 G12 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0014E2S...ing=UTF8&psc=1

    Found the chart I use here.
    http://www.texas-mac.com/sitebuilder...s2-681x475.jpg

    Courtesy of this site which explains procedure of test:

    http://www.texas-mac.com/Evaluations...s_Testers.html

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    There is an alloy calculator around here that works pretty well, might be a sticky for it.

    Don’t use your casting pot to “smelt” scrap lead, just buy pure lead or soww from someone that’s already done the work. Probably cost $1/lb + shipping. Ask for 1lb ingots.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by StuBach View Post
    On testing lead with pencils, I’ve been doing that for years with solid results. Not the most accurate but for my proposed it’s was more cost effective than the more expensive testers. Looked on Amazon where I got mine and they’re even on sale today.

    Staedtler Mars Lumograph Art Drawing Pencils, 12 Pack Graphite Pencils in Metal Case, Break-Resistant Bonded Lead, 100 G12 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0014E2S...ing=UTF8&psc=1

    Found the chart I use here.
    http://www.texas-mac.com/sitebuilder...s2-681x475.jpg

    Courtesy of this site which explains procedure of test:

    http://www.texas-mac.com/Evaluations...s_Testers.html
    Good on you StuBach for pulling and posting those links together.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by VariableRecall View Post
    Thanks for the suggestion! I believe that 12BHN would be plenty for the applications I'm intending to use it with. Considering that I could almost double the potential castable lead that I could potentially make use of in the future.

    Would 8 lbs Clip on Wheel Weights with 8lbs of Magic Alloy lead to a reasonable result as well? I suppose pure lead would be softer but it's my understanding that COWW can run just fine with most pistol calibers on their own.
    Adding COWW to Hardball will get you a Bhn of around 13 - I wouldn't waste the COWW that way (it's gold and, as you say, works just fine by itself).

    Stick-on WW or pure would be cheaper/better.
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  17. #17
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    The only time I use hardball alloy is for my bullseye bullets all else get what ever I have on hand mostly range lead with a bit of tin usually about a 10 bhn.

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    I use the MBC alloy for 357mag, 44mag, and 9mm “as is”

    because my supply of everything else ran out

    it works fine
    Last edited by derek45; 04-28-2021 at 02:20 PM.
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    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by derek45 View Post
    I use the MBC allow for 357mag, 44mag, and 9mm “as is”

    because my supply of everything else ran out

    it works fine
    MBC is the Magic Bullet Alloy?

  20. #20
    Boolit Master derek45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VariableRecall View Post
    MBC is the Magic Bullet Alloy?
    missouri bullet company
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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
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LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
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