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Thread: Keeping Tin In Range Lead

  1. #21
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    46
    Wow, everyone great advice, and pics makes this an invaluable thread for smelting; at least to me.

    To be safe, after reading about moisture in this thread, I held off adding some scrap that had sand in it because it still retained moisture. I'll take care of that before smelting it. That could have been disastrous.

    I'll re-read through this thread several times and find a way to get to it easily for reference. For new guys like myself, this is seriously helpful information.

    Things like: fluxing before scooping out the boolit cases; maximum melt point (750*) aim for 700* to prevent alloy vaporization(didn't have any idea there can be a loss of lead from it); avoiding adding moisture to a molten mix.

    Conditor, this surprised me when you said, "Harder alloyed metals will melt at lower temperatures than pure lead." And thanks for your pics, they gave me a couple ideas, like your wisk.

    Is this thread worthy of being stickied?

  2. #22
    Boolit Master


    Burnt Fingers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    1,938
    Quote Originally Posted by Muser View Post
    Wow, everyone great advice, and pics makes this an invaluable thread for smelting; at least to me.

    To be safe, after reading about moisture in this thread, I held off adding some scrap that had sand in it because it still retained moisture. I'll take care of that before smelting it. That could have been disastrous.

    I'll re-read through this thread several times and find a way to get to it easily for reference. For new guys like myself, this is seriously helpful information.

    Things like: fluxing before scooping out the boolit cases; maximum melt point (750*) aim for 700* to prevent alloy vaporization(didn't have any idea there can be a loss of lead from it); avoiding adding moisture to a molten mix.

    Conditor, this surprised me when you said, "Harder alloyed metals will melt at lower temperatures than pure lead." And thanks for your pics, they gave me a couple ideas, like your wisk.

    Is this thread worthy of being stickied?
    You're not going to lose lead to vaporization unless you get it well over 1,000°.
    NRA Benefactor.

  3. #23
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    46
    Thank-you for this.
    I've been concerned about losing lead from the pot in this way.
    Having just bought a 220,000 BTU burner and being totally new at this, I just didn't know.
    For my first day of melting scrap I don't know what temps I hit, but I will after Sunday when my Tel-Tru 200* - 1,000*F thermometer arrives.
    Based on the wisdom here I plan to keep my melt running between 700-750*F.

    Thanks again Burnt Fingers.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Martinsburg, WV
    Posts
    3,247
    This is not Gospel, but the golden color usually indicates a harder alloy, bluish will indicate a softer and closer to pure lead.

    Quote Originally Posted by Muser View Post
    after removing the bullet casings and dross, the surface of the melted alloy is golden.
    Does this indicate a need to change the heat +/- to the pot?
    A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check