Reloading UKADvertise hereRotoMetals2Repackbox
Titan ReloadingInline FabricationMidSouth Shooters SupplyLee Precision

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 31

Thread: cut off jigs

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Lesage WV
    Posts
    810

    cut off jigs

    there is guy on the bay that makes a 3D cut off jig in anything you would want nice set up
    not here to promote just to inform .

  2. #2
    Moderator

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,466
    Easy enough to DIY one, either with a 3D printer, or even with wood with a table saw or plastic with a milling machine or lots of other possibilities.

    Ideal one would fit the case like a glove - but as you'll trim the case again after initial forming, you could use something semi rough to do the initial cutoff.

    I might do a design for a jig, going to be getting into 300BO and want another jig design for 45ACP shot shells. There is a 3d subforum under special projects, if interested.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Butler, MO
    Posts
    7,514
    When I used my mini chop saw to cut off case necks for making shotshells, I cut the first one sort of held in the vice. then I used the cutoff portion to position the rest of the lot.

    Precise? No. Useable since the cases needed to be ran through a case trimmer anyway? Yes.

    What would be neat is if you could make a push through jig that indexed length properly.

    Robert

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Fredericksburg, virginia
    Posts
    1,063
    This is a short video showing the fixtures I use in the HF chop saw. They work great for me.

    https://youtu.be/7unEiiPN860

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    New York, the empire State
    Posts
    1,472
    I purchased a couple mainly for 577/450, 577 snider. They are made mostly accurate the bad part is the HF saw . Most are out of Square and there adjustments are not overly accurate. I try cutting them a close as possible cut, them Trim on a trimmer
    NRA Endowment Member
    International Ammunition Association
    AmmunitionArtifacts
    ARTCA
    New York, the Empire State Where Empires were Won and Lost

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Western, MO
    Posts
    428
    My little brother has been making them for years out of wood blocks. Drill a hole, cut in half and slot for a rim if needed. I think I have a .300 blackout and a .38 S&W around here somewhere.

  7. #7
    Moderator

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,466
    About half way done making OpenSCAD files for them, have it making the cartridges with the cutoff "nicks" as a disk in the right place, next I just need a few lines to rotate those and remove that volume from the fixture, important thing is making the dimension numbers right

    (for 300 BO trim and 45 ACP Shot shell trim jigs)

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Linesville , Pa.
    Posts
    5
    thanks for that video.
    The harbor freight saw will cut clean enough that trimming is not needed to square it up, but I had trouble
    rotating the case for Sniders and such with a normal jig. This looks like the answer to large diameter cases.
    I tried the 3 inch cutoff wheel, but it was nowhere near the saw blade. Way slower and just stunk the place up.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    12,681
    You might consider a keyed base for the jig. this could be held down and the key locates the jigs in place

  10. #10
    Moderator

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,466
    I posted in the 3D printing subforum, https://castboolits.gunloads.com/for...-RELATED-ITEMS, at https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...SS-cutoff-jigs, showing my jigs as they stand.

    My 3D printer isn't built yet, but that is coming soon

    I can pass someone STL files if they want Or design you another one for a different case, I would need some measurements is all (Base diameter, Rim diameter, case length to shoulder, case length to base of neck, neck diameter, pretty obvious, if your case isn't a SAAMI standard one.)

    Any jig that does the job is a good jig, I just like the idea of exactly fitted custom ones. Engineering folks -rolls eyes- LOL

  11. #11
    Boolit Master 444ttd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    745
    i use for any x57 cases in my hf cut off saw....

    https://elite3ddesign.com/products/8...s-case-trimmer
    The strength of a wall is neither greater nor less than the courage of the men who defend it.
    Genghis Khan

    MOLON LABE

  12. #12
    Moderator

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,466
    I've seen people using jigs like mine, push the next case in, shoving the previous one out of the way. I could do a retainer clip like that though, its a good way to do it, that would require you to insert and pull the cases out, all on the same side, seems slower possibly.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master

    imashooter2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    6,467
    This one is for 300 BLK.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	E4B96B62-9867-410A-BA10-4F71929D960D.jpg 
Views:	28 
Size:	42.9 KB 
ID:	282402 Click image for larger version. 

Name:	06F9BD97-7E3F-41CC-9EA4-663452135555.jpg 
Views:	22 
Size:	47.3 KB 
ID:	282403
    My Straight Shooters thread:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter

    The Pewter Pictures and Hallmarks thread:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-and-hallmarks

  14. #14
    Moderator

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,466
    I can tell that you're sizing the case w/o the inside neck sizer ball present there Do you find that more advantageous than just cutting the 223 once fired (or new) case, then sizing? Seems like more work, potentially, is why I ask. (To get the right inside neck dia. you'd have to re-size the brass again, I'd think?)

  15. #15
    AKA: GRMPS Conditor22's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    3,241
    sizing after cutting will change the OAL -- you have to take that into consideration

    Sizing before cutting all you have to do is get your OAL right + a couple of thou to trim down to exact size and square

  16. #16
    Moderator

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,466
    Knew that, measure 4 times, cut once, then trim My trimmer has a motor on it, part of why I'm not too scared about a little trimming

  17. #17
    Boolit Master 444ttd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    745
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Sheesh View Post
    Knew that, measure 4 times, cut once, then trim My trimmer has a motor on it, part of why I'm not too scared about a little trimming
    +1

    i have the power adapters for my forster and lyman case trimmer.
    The strength of a wall is neither greater nor less than the courage of the men who defend it.
    Genghis Khan

    MOLON LABE

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master

    imashooter2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    6,467
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Sheesh View Post
    I can tell that you're sizing the case w/o the inside neck sizer ball present there Do you find that more advantageous than just cutting the 223 once fired (or new) case, then sizing? Seems like more work, potentially, is why I ask. (To get the right inside neck dia. you'd have to re-size the brass again, I'd think?)
    I saw a video on the web that sized first, trimmed to exact length with the HF chop saw and then put the expander ball back in and ran the cases as normal. His pitch was no deburring (die knocked off the burrs), no final trim and no annealing, so faster and easier.

    I tried it on 20 cases and didn’t like the finish the saw cut gave me and was iffy about the no deburring. I now do the traditional cut, anneal, form and final trim.
    My Straight Shooters thread:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter

    The Pewter Pictures and Hallmarks thread:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-and-hallmarks

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    South Western NC
    Posts
    3,014
    Ref. Harbor Freight tools, I have quite a few of them simply because they are great for my occasional needs. I have a young nephew who buys HF tools because he can afford them; like me, he can afford them because they're low cost devices that he could not otherwise rightly justify buying. BUT, he then complains that they're cheeply made and really aren't professional quality tools built for precision work and long life. Welll ... he drives an Amazon warehouse forklift for a living and he ain't a "professional" anything so ....! ???

    In the early 70s I made a lot of .22-250 cases from 1942 military .30-06 because the first factory .22-250 cases were still hard to find and it allowed me to make cases tightly fitted to my then new Sako/Browning Safari's (with an also new 20x 1 1/2" Unertl varmint scope) factory chamber. Wish I'd had one of HF's little chop saws back then.

    HF's little plastic frame "chop saw" is great for occasional light work but it isn't intended for cutting 1/2" rebar all day. Like any other tool, if you actually need one get it, use it correctly - and within its obvious limits - and it'll probably do you fine.

  20. #20
    Moderator

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,466
    If someone's criticizing their own life choices, I might agree with them then ask when they're going to start making better ones on rare occasion, or just not comment; I certainly am not too likely to argue with them though LOL

    I made ~3 or 4k 243 cases out of 308, and while that required other tools, annealing & reaming at 25-08 mainly, it certainly didn't need a chop saw. I had a power hacksaw at that time, but using that for trimming 308 to 45 ACP shotshells a few years later would have been silly. Wish my arms worked as well now as they did then, arthritis is not helpful. So I am glad to have my lil chop saw now.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check