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Thread: Protecting barrel finish from the 4-jaw chuck

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Protecting barrel finish from the 4-jaw chuck

    I've used all kinds of dodges to keep chuck jaws from marring barrels, but it took me 20 years to hit on this one. A couple of inches of 1" I.D. radiator hose! Just finished setting back a Stevens 44 barrel in my South Bend 10" Heavy, and it worked like charm. Even made the truing-up process go faster.
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  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Dosent using something soft that compresses make for lots of chasing your tail ?

    I usually just use some solid copper electrical wire to wrap around where Im clamping on the barrel. Ive a 5gal bucket of scrap wire pieces that will probably last my lifetime of barreling stuff..

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Nope. By the time you have the rubber well and truly compressed it's quite stiff enough. Seems counterintuitive, but it worked. It does require a spider at the back end of the spindle, but so does any method.
    Last edited by uscra112; 04-23-2021 at 09:50 AM.
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    We always used pennies.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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  5. #5
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    I've always used brass shim stock.
    2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

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  6. #6
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    I use a ring of 10 gauge copper wire. Never has marred a barrel, never has slipped, and allows the barrel to be indicated on both ends without any bending. Simple, effective, and used by many.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    I just wrap a few layers of paper around the barrel. I sheet of paper folded twice lengthwise and wrapped around the barrel seems to work just fine. Use this about 1/2 dozen times a week.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    You guys must not have the nasty serrated top jaws my chuck came with. Early on I told myself I'd make a set of UHMW plastic jaws but never got around to it. What with my age and failing health I don't think I ever will.
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  9. #9
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    Normally I use a three jaw with soft jaws with the true adjust feature so it adjusted the same as four jaw chuck.
    2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

    "Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
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    "The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
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  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    3-jaws don't cope with octagon barrels well, though.
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  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by uscra112 View Post
    3-jaws don't cope with octagon barrels well, though.
    Very true. That is why I own 3, 4 and 6 jaw chucks plus various collect systems and face plates. I also have a couple of 3 and 4 jaw chucks plate mounted to be used on my Bridgeport's. I have two. One with a slotting head and one with a cherrying head. That being said I have not used the cherrying head for anything and it's possible I may never. Not long ago I got a great deal one a basically new old stock with all the collects.

    I had planned on selling one of the Bridgeport's but it too much hassle to change between the slotting head and the cherrying head so the one with the cherrying head is setup with a right angle head.
    2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

    "Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
    – Amber Veal

    "The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
    - Wayne Dyer

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master 303Guy's Avatar
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    When I was machining I used card. I got into trouble for it once though, with the workshop foreman who thought only copper would do. The problem with copper and heavy cutting is that it slips. Card never moves.

    I will remember that rubber hose idea though. I can see why it would work. It would make setting a lot easier because it has some give, even when compressed and I can see how, once compressed it would hold rigid. It will after all, be compressed to the clamping force of the jaws.
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  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Setting-up went quicker. I start with all four jaws at the same radius, and take a half turn on each one in sequence. As the grip tightens, I take a bit more at each jaw where the indicator says I'm high, but I never have to back one off. Eventually I home in on a state of tight and centered at the same time. Did a 44-1/2 barrel last night, just trimming the shoulder to get it to index properly, then the breech face for proper fit to the breechblock, then touching up the chamber with a reamer.

    Threading I'd do as I have always done, with the breech end supported on a live center as far from the headstock as my rather short bed will allow, but with the chuck gripping the barrel through the rubber, because it's so easy to get it centered up. I can probably use more pressure on the center since the rubber won't let the barrel slip in the chuck.

    Heavy cuts? I wouldn't know. My heavy 10 isn't exactly a powerhouse. Thirty thou deep and .005 per rev is about all it will do in steel in high range.
    Last edited by uscra112; 04-26-2021 at 05:54 PM.
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  14. #14
    Boolit Bub
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    I use 1/4" copper rod on each of the jaws. Shaped to fit each jaw so I don't have to hold 5 things, in place, at once. My .02 cents worth

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check