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Thread: 1911 Recoil Buffers

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Rodfac's Avatar
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    "I agree with Char-Gar, fine for a range pistol but not something for a pistol on which you stake your life. My personal experience with them is they will eventually tie up the gun."
    My experience as well in two Rugers, a Sig, a Remington-Rand 1911a1, and an even half dozen Colts over the years. Finally gave up on the idea...took awhile. They sound like a good idea, but if you're shooting the gun correctly sprung & as it was designed for bullet weight and velocity, their not needed. Rod
    Rod

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy

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    Not a fan of them myself. Seems like they could induce a short stroke malfunction.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    I have always used Wilson Shok Buffs with all my 1911's and every one I shoot with uses them also and shoot thousands of rounds a year in completion with out any problems.
    After 500 or more rounds the buffs are getting pretty chewed up so they are absorbing a lot of impact.

  4. #24
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    Didn't like 'em when they became a "thing" in the late 80s or so, still don't.
    My Iraq Pics

    Preferred Travel Agent - 72 Virgins Dating Club

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Have a Springfield armory (new SA not the old) that has well over 20k rounds down the tube. Mostly 230 gr hard cast and have always used shok buffs. Has a 18 pound recoil spring and never had a problem not going into battery, failures to feed or eject. Bullet is loaded to 830 fps. Used to shoot steel plate matches years back. never placed but sure had a lot of fun. Even use them in my 1943 Ithaca 1911A1. Frank

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    I believe that this depends entirely on the use and purpose of the gun. I have a commander length Kimber that has never seen a shock buff as it is only for carry. I also have a five inch Kimber that I still compete with and it has always had a shock buff in it. Why? because at over 150,000 rounds I have had to replace and re-fit along the way the barrel, bushing, slide stop, hammer, sear and guide rod, but so far neither the frame or slide. That is what shock buffs are for.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    If you go back in history a bit...the buffers came to be with the Commander length slides. Frames were being battered a bit, especially the aluminum ones. Enter the buffer.

    I keep one in the wife's .45 light Commander just to save the frame.

    They are made to be replaced on a regular basis. When cleaning the gun they should be inspected and replaced if they show signs of deep indents. Yes, if left in there too long they will come apart and possibly jam the pistol. Using 'normal' loads in the commander I will get about 500 rounds before replacing.

    Why don't I replace the recoil spring? If I use the next stiffer spring I get some malfunctions.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Only once did a recoil buffer ever give me trouble when a 20 lb. spring finally bit through it and the buffer edges projected toward the muzzle enough to prevent locking back the slide. It was pretty aged and had hardened up noticeably. Other than that, I've had no trouble.

    I've noticed that 1911's from different manufacturers will vary as to how much space they have to accommodate a buffer and still get the slide back far enough to be caught by the slide stop, which has to do with the depth of the spring guide seat in the frame among other things. Some guns have deep seats and these will easily work with a buffer. I once played with a "Firestorm" 1911 (remember those?) that could easily accommodate two buffers and a .030" thick buffer-shaped washer I added to evenly distribute the load and still had ample room to lock the slide. It had a noticeably gentle rubbery feel during recoil rather than the hard metallic crack it usually exhibited with stout handloads.

    I suppose a solid buffer with greater working surface area could be devised out of Delrin or some other oil/solvent and impact resistant material tougher than neoprene and positioned between the spring guide and the frame which would reduce the likelihood of going to pieces and tying up the works. Has anyone seen anything like that? A spring steel wavy washer to dissipate shock? Just thinking out loud here. . . .

  9. #29
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    Great invention idea there, bub. Just a little R&D and your million $ awaits you.

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  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    With use, true, they smash out and drag on the slide. You can change them, or trim the edges off with a razor knife. They do cut the sharpness of he impact, and l like the feel of them. I have around 100,000 rounds between the various 1911s l use.

  11. #31
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    The slot in the slide into which the slide stop rises to hold the slide open has an angled front side. The front side of the slot acts as a cam when the slide is retracted. It pushes down on the slide stop, moving it out of the way. When the slide is subsequently released (assuming no empty magazine is present), the slide stop stays down and the slide is free to run forward.

    I purchased some "shock buffers" to learn what they are all about. Les Baer recommends against them. I tried one for the first time this week. I like to release the slide by pulling back and letting go. The buffer prevents the slide from moving back far enough for the cam surface to depress the slide stop. I removed the buffer, and the problem is cured.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gtek View Post
    Put them in your Mini-14, they do help some there.
    Yep, one made my Mini a good bit more accurate and along with a .040 gas port bushing, keeps the brass in the same county.
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check