Any Tractor/Mechanic experts here?

[jim147]

I agree on the burning bits being loose stuff in the exhaust from being shaken around taking it apart and putting back together. I've seen it.

No power? Not sure from here is everything back in its original place? Did you have the cam out? I would need to look that engine up to see what sets timing and injector adjustment. Some are very touchy if the injector timing and adjustment is set by the cam.

Been a lot of year since I did the diesel tractor engines. Outside jumping a 4020 last weekend.

[lksmith]

I agree on the burning bits being loose stuff in the exhaust from being shaken around taking it apart and putting back together. I've seen it.

No power? Not sure from here is everything back in its original place? Did you have the cam out? I would need to look that engine up to see what sets timing and injector adjustment. Some are very touchy if the injector timing and adjustment is set by the cam.

Been a lot of year since I did the diesel tractor engines. Outside jumping a 4020 last weekend.

Didn't mess with cam, or fuel.
All I know is that whatever it was hurts when it melts into your shirt!

[lksmith]

Yes,with the motor running ,loosen each injector pipe nut just enough for fuel to drip from the nut...any air will come out as foam ,close the nut and the motor should run evenly again.....do the other cylinder the same.......its likely the burning bits in the exhaust are carbon and rust loosened when the head was taken off......If anything is wrong with a piston/cylinder,the motor wont turn over easliy after stopping ,or refuse to turn........Some of the little motors its hard to get the system full of coolant/water again,they get airlocks in places..........WARNING...fuel spray from the nut/pipe is very dangerous if you touch it ,or it penetrates your skin........get medical treatment straight away.

it did act like it was overheating, power wise. I put about a gallon of antifreeze in it, and was going to add water as needed until it filled up

[john.k]

Overheating as such wont affect the power of a diesel..........a sign the motor has problems is black smoke along with low power... something dragging in the motor ....partial seizure......Any motor that gets hot quickly is a bad sign ,and the cause needs to be fixed.

[lksmith]

Overheating as such wont affect the power of a diesel..........a sign the motor has problems is black smoke along with low power... something dragging in the motor ....partial seizure......Any motor that gets hot quickly is a bad sign ,and the cause needs to be fixed.

I remember when I would get low on coolant in the summer (bushhogging) it would loose power like it was starving for fuel and die. Let it cool for a bit and it would go again. Fixed the coolant problem (no expansion tank) and the problem went away.

[john.k]

losing coolant while running can be a sign of a cracked head (assuming there are no radiator leaks /waterpump dripping etc.).....another sign is bubbles/froth /foam in the coolant while running.........cracked head could also be the cause of water in the cylinders..........this isnt uncommon in 71 series GMs ,and results in bent rods and busted pistons .

[Gator 45/70]

losing coolant while running can be a sign of a cracked head (assuming there are no radiator leaks /waterpump dripping etc.).....another sign is bubbles/froth /foam in the coolant while running.........cracked head could also be the cause of water in the cylinders..........this isnt uncommon in 71 series GMs ,and results in bent rods and busted pistons .

All the 71 series engines have a fusible heat plug that melts at 257 degrees, It's in the head.
Same on 53's and 92's, If you see it melted its a real good chance the head has cracked.

Pict added, Look for this plug, Doesn't matter if its 2 valve or 4 valve, They all are in the 71 series heads

[lksmith]

All the 71 series engines have a fusible heat plug that melts at 257 degrees, It's in the head.
Same on 53's and 92's, If you see it melted its a real good chance the head has cracked.

Pict added, Look for this plug, Doesn't matter if its 2 valve or 4 valve, They all are in the 71 series heads

found the plug, it's intact. The coolant loss was due to the coolant expanding and overflowing. Without an expansion tank it ran out, added tank and whenever it cooled it sucked coolant back where it belonged.

Going to see if I can find torque values for the head nuts and make sure I have them tight enough. Not sure if I have to crush the head gasket a little or if I just need to match the feel.

[lksmith]

I think I found and fixed the power issue. I retorqued the head nuts, and noticed that a valve wasn't moving, turns out a pushrod had moved out of place (guess I didn't have it all the way in) Starts Much easier now. Still acts like it's a little weaker but that could be the rings wearing in. Now I just have to figure out why my 4wd won't engage, apparently the bent driveshaft mount wasn't the issue. Knew I couldn't get that lucky for it to be and easy fix.

[jim147]

Here's to hoping the rings seat. Good luck with it.

[Finster101]

So what's the latest in this continuing saga? How is it running?

[lksmith]

So what's the latest in this continuing saga? How is it running?

Seems to be running fine. Feels like it stalls out easier than I remember, but then again the last "tractors" I operated doing dirt work was my Cat D5 or my Dad's 75hp John Deere.

It certainly starts easier than it did.
I just have to figure out how to fix the 4WD problem to get full use of my tractor again

[Finster101]

Glad to hear it is running. Hopefully the 4WD issue is simple. There isn't much to the system. Check the linkages real well and make sure it is actually engaging.

[KCSO]

Sory my tractors were all johnny pops mostly hand crank. Rebuilt several of them.

[lksmith]

Glad to hear it is running. Hopefully the 4WD issue is simple. There isn't much to the system. Check the linkages real well and make sure it is actually engaging.

I'm hoping it's just a small pin sheared after 40+ years. The driveline and axle are good and working, when I engage the lever, it seems to try, but won't quite catch. All teh external stuff looks to be working as it should. I'm about to the hydraulic fluid change interval so will probably look at it then. I think that part of the system shares fluid with the powershift trans and hydraulics