Any Tractor/Mechanic experts here?

[lksmith]

The wrist pin in the piston may no longer be where it should be. You will not know until you get everything apart.

I can spin the piston in the liner and cannot feel any protrusion in the pin area

[redneck1]

I think what he's trying to say is the piston might be a tad shorter then it used to be
Rods can compress without bending a minor amount to , but that's a lot less likely then them bending .

[skeettx]

watching
Mike

[MarkW]

To get the rings compressed in order to get the piston completely back into the cylinder you can use a hose clamp around the offending ring to get it pressed back in then tap (or whack) the piston back up into the cylinder with a hammer and a piece of wood. If you don't have a hose clamp big enough you can piece together a larger clamp from 2 smaller ones. It can be fiddly but you can also do the same thing with a zip tie but you have to be a lot more careful so I'd suggest just using a hose clamp.

[john.k]

The liner may be a wet line,like a Caterpillar,in which case it should pull out fairly easily,it may be a dry liner that is a slip fit (GM71s,1980s Mazda diesels),or it may be dry liner that is pressed into the block with more or less interference fit ......these kind of liners generally need the block in a hydraulic press,and the liner pressed out....so there is no point trying to get a tight fit liner out in the tractor...in a small motor ,there may be no liner.. ..In any case ,pull the piston and rod ,and see whats had damage ....A bent rod is very likely .

[lksmith]

This is the sleeve: https://www.hoyetractor.com/PROD/WS-90.htm
From what I can tell looking at the drawings in my service manual and the pic on the site, it is held with oring and sandwiched between the head and block, but I would've expected it to come out pretty easily once the head is off.
I thought about the hose clamp, but I'm not sure i can get a wrench or screwdriver up in there to tighten it

[popper]

Wet sleeve block. Piston seized in cylinder? Pull rod cap and take it all out. Buy new cylinder, piston, rod and rings. Look for cracked cylinder that leaked coolant into the cylinder! Blown head gasket will do it also.

[john.k]

A wet sleeve with one seal ring will not come out by hand ....but can be pulled with a simple setup ,like a length of threaded rod and cross pieces and spacers......this is assuming rust inhibitor/anti freeze in the coolant.....rust will make the job more difficult.

[lksmith]

A wet sleeve with one seal ring will not come out by hand ....but can be pulled with a simple setup ,like a length of threaded rod and cross pieces and spacers......this is assuming rust inhibitor/anti freeze in the coolant.....rust will make the job more difficult.

What if you can't get the piston out?

[Mk42gunner]

I would try to position a small hydraulic jack under the tractor to press the piston/ liner out when you raise the jack.

I don't know about yours, but some Kubotas are supposed to have the new liners installed then reamed to size.

It may be more economical to find another similar tractor than to repair this one.

Robert

[Soundguy]

Can you get a brass rod or bar by crank into jug and hammer from bottom driving piston and jug out?

If it was a dry cast liner I'd shrink it with low pen weld beads and pull by hand..or if a dry sheet steel liner peel out.. ( but it ain't )

[john.k]

Looks like the oil ring will have to be broken to get the piston out......Id do it without a second thought,and replace the rings as a matter of course.

[lksmith]

Looks like the oil ring will have to be broken to get the piston out......Id do it without a second thought,and replace the rings as a matter of course.

yeah, trying to break the oil ring on the front piston, but so far it has just bent. Once the rain moves out I'll try to jack it up and out.
HOPEFULLY then I can get the parts and put it back together where it'll run. Never done one of these before so I might end up having to get another tractor anyway, but if i can fix it and it ought to run for another 40+ years

[rancher1913]

if you want another 40 years, do all the liners and rings. my luck if I only did the bad one would be failure of another after I got it all back together.

[Finster101]

if you want another 40 years, do all the liners and rings. my luck if I only did the bad one would be failure of another after I got it all back together.

I'll second that. If you are down that far it just doesn't make sense to not do the complete job. Having made my living in the automotive repair business I have seen only fixing the "bad" coil, plug, valve, you name it bite customers more than once. I can only recommend it, not force them to do it but they sure wish they had listened when they pay me to tear it down again.

[john.k]

Maybe ,but pulling wet liners can open a can of worms.....problems that you dont want to know about or deal with...........I also hadnt considered the oil ring may be a duoflex type,all steel components that wont break.....so just wind it out of the groove maybe with long nose pliers.......

[lksmith]

Maybe ,but pulling wet liners can open a can of worms.....problems that you dont want to know about or deal with...

You may be right, but don't really have a choice. i found 2 small pieces of metal that appeared to be the bottom of the sleeve in the oil pan. If I don't replace it, more than likely a ring will catch and I'm right back where I started

[alfadan]

If it hydrolocked, im thinking it bent the rod enough for the crankshaft to pull the piston down enough, the oil ring came out the bottom of the liner and then shoved back up. As to the water, do you pressure wash it?

[john.k]

I wasnt suggesting you dont pull the liner that locked......just dont pull the other unnecessarily......However ,if the other liner moves,then it should be pulled and the seal ring replaced.

[lksmith]

If it hydrolocked, im thinking it bent the rod enough for the crankshaft to pull the piston down enough, the oil ring came out the bottom of the liner and then shoved back up. As to the water, do you pressure wash it?

no, i don't. Somehow the airbox got filled with water and when I slid the hose back on the intake it sucked water in.
as to HOW the airbox got water in it, much less filled, I haven't a clue. It has a "horn" on the top that sucks air in, however that horn sits right under the hood, which was closed and doesn't have any holes in it that I can find.
If haven't started it in a while, I'll take the hose off and dribble a little charcoal lighter fluid in the intake to help it kick off instead of using starting fluid. It ignites easier than diesel but isn't as "explosive" as ether so easier on the engine. This is similar to how the thermostart on it works