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Thread: Any Tractor/Mechanic experts here?

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy
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    So I got the pistons out and looks like both rods bent and both sleeves have a small chunk broke out at the bottom. Likely from the rods bending.
    as tight as the pistons fit in the sleeve (even without the rings) the tractor would've kept on trucking long after me had I not gotten water in it.
    However that looks to be the extent of the damage, parts are right at $700+ shipping since I already had a head gasket for it.
    Now just hoping I can put it back together AND it run

  2. #42
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    I didn't read all the comments here but the folks at hoye tractor in Texas have always been more than helpful in everything I have ever had to repair on my little 2cyl Yanmar . on the website is lots of how info also. some sleeves come right out but others you need to get a puck to fit in sleeve, spacers on top of block and piece of threaded rod to pull them.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by lksmith View Post
    So I got the pistons out and looks like both rods bent and both sleeves have a small chunk broke out at the bottom. Likely from the rods bending.
    as tight as the pistons fit in the sleeve (even without the rings) the tractor would've kept on trucking long after me had I not gotten water in it.
    However that looks to be the extent of the damage, parts are right at $700+ shipping since I already had a head gasket for it.
    Now just hoping I can put it back together AND it run
    Glad you stuck with it! Gives us armchair mechanics an interesting read! Good Luck!
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

  4. #44
    Boolit Master
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    Yanmar parts have always been extra costly,which is why Ive steered clear of them........Anyway,the area you are most likely to strike problems is the liner seals......the liner seal area in the block must be smooth and free from cavitation pitting,which has sharp edges that will tear the liner seals.....also follow instruction for liner seal lubricant exactly ....if the book says no oil,then grease is out too,and especially kerosine based hand cleaner........Ive done Caterpillar blocks that had nothing left of the liner seal surface,by building up with Devcon ,and carefully scraping back to round and smooth.

  5. #45
    Boolit Master
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    I've always used dawn dish soap for o ring lube for liners. Use a wire brush in an air grinder to clean the groves out. I'll see if I can remember where I used to get parts from and see if they are cheaper.

    Where are you? That might help. I can find used parts from a couple places around here.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmbif View Post
    I didn't read all the comments here but the folks at hoye tractor in Texas have always been more than helpful in everything I have ever had to repair on my little 2cyl Yanmar . on the website is lots of how info also. some sleeves come right out but others you need to get a puck to fit in sleeve, spacers on top of block and piece of threaded rod to pull them.
    yeah, Hoye is who I usually use for Yammer specific items. They suggested the same about a puller

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim147 View Post
    I've always used dawn dish soap for o ring lube for liners. Use a wire brush in an air grinder to clean the groves out. I'll see if I can remember where I used to get parts from and see if they are cheaper.

    Where are you? That might help. I can find used parts from a couple places around here.
    I'm in south arkansas. Now that the pistons are out they'll get a good shot of degreaser and then probably carb cleaner before going back in.
    With new liners and rings the old gal ought to run like new, hopefully easier to start too. It's always been a bit hard to start until it gets warmed up, even when it's 100+ degrees outside

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by lksmith View Post
    So I got the pistons out and looks like both rods bent and both sleeves have a small chunk broke out at the bottom. Likely from the rods bending.
    as tight as the pistons fit in the sleeve (even without the rings) the tractor would've kept on trucking long after me had I not gotten water in it.
    However that looks to be the extent of the damage, parts are right at $700+ shipping since I already had a head gasket for it.
    Now just hoping I can put it back together AND it run
    Have you determined how the water entered the engine?

    My old neighbor Bob came over one day explaining his 4-71 was full of water running out the dipstick, Rainwater at that.

    I went over and dug around his machine for a bit, The rain cap was in place and closed, But the top inside lip of the muffler had a rusted hole inside the outer lip allowing the muffle to act like a funnel filling up the engine with water.
    Long story short, We pulled the air box covers,Sprayed liners and rings with WD-40, Rotated the engine until the rings were free.
    Drained the oil, Changed the filters, Added fresh oil, filters, battery, diesel, Fired it off for a minute.
    Drained off the oil and changed the filters as this now looked like a vanilla shake.
    Put more oil and filters, Ran fine, Bob went and bought a new muffler.
    If you don't find the source of the water contamination you're back to square one, Look hard at the muffler and air filter housing.

  9. #49
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    I would inspect the pistons real well for damage. Dye penetrant check would be good, to check for hairline fractures. You don't want to put damaged pistons in the rebuild, just to have them fail at some time.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gator 45/70 View Post
    Have you determined how the water entered the engine?

    My old neighbor Bob came over one day explaining his 4-71 was full of water running out the dipstick, Rainwater at that.

    I went over and dug around his machine for a bit, The rain cap was in place and closed, But the top inside lip of the muffler had a rusted hole inside the outer lip allowing the muffle to act like a funnel filling up the engine with water.
    Long story short, We pulled the air box covers,Sprayed liners and rings with WD-40, Rotated the engine until the rings were free.
    Drained the oil, Changed the filters, Added fresh oil, filters, battery, diesel, Fired it off for a minute.
    Drained off the oil and changed the filters as this now looked like a vanilla shake.
    Put more oil and filters, Ran fine, Bob went and bought a new muffler.
    If you don't find the source of the water contamination you're back to square one, Look hard at the muffler and air filter housing.
    Water entered from the airbox. How water got into the airbox is a mystery. Can rule out the muffler as i had a 5gal bucket over it to prevent water from entering that way

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by lksmith View Post
    Water entered from the airbox. How water got into the airbox is a mystery. Can rule out the muffler as i had a 5gal bucket over it to prevent water from entering that way
    Rain can get sideways on you, I'd plan on an airbox shield or cover.

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockrat View Post
    I would inspect the pistons real well for damage. Dye penetrant check would be good, to check for hairline fractures. You don't want to put damaged pistons in the rebuild, just to have them fail at some time.
    I wouldn't even risk re-using the old pistons.
    It would be a shame to spend all of that time and Money, only to have the engine tear itself apart.

    I know pistons are expensive but if you're $700 into this engine, you don't want to throw away $700.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gator 45/70 View Post
    Rain can get sideways on you, I'd plan on an airbox shield or cover.
    That's the part that has me baffled. the horn is completely shielded, and never had water in the box since I got the tractor in 2014 and it stays outside 90% of the time, up until a year ago i didn't even put a bucket over the exhaust pipe, just let the flapper do it's thing

  14. #54
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    ANOTHER UPDATE:
    OK so built a puller with a circle of 3/8" plate with a 1/2" threaded hole in the middle(ish) and a washer and1/2" nut backing it up. The plate is about 1" bigger than the OD of the sleeve, which feels like it protrudes from the block by about 3/4-1"
    Got a 2x4 laid across the head studs with a 1/2" hole drilled through it with a piece of 1/2" allthread, washer and nut on top. Got it cranked down pretty tight, as in about as tight as I feel comfortable pulling on a 3/8" ratchet without a cheater. No movement so far. Sprayed some Zep45 around the top and am letting it sit, hopefully the constant tension and oil will help it pop out.
    Best I can figure on these, once they break loose they come out pretty easy and don't have to be pulled all the way through the block like a dry liner would. Might try some heat tomorrow, but kinda nervous that i'll ignite the oil and have an even bigger mess on my hands. Might even try air chisel on the inside of the sleeve to help vibrate it loose

  15. #55
    Boolit Master
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    I had a puller like that with a bunch of discs made for all the engines we worked on. It had a large aluminum cup to pull the sleeve up into.

    I never had a problem getting them out with that but was told to run a couple weld beads up the inside of the sleeve to loosen it if it didn't move.

  16. #56
    Boolit Master
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    Ive always steered clear of anything Yanmar because of parts prices.....but $700 for two liners and a ringset is even beyond what Id expect.....I imagine pistons would be similar prices too.....Ive always liked Perkins stuff,used to get a piston ,liner ,rings ,pin kit for $22.,and a head gasket kit for $20.....Something to consider before buying the machine.......The Mustang skid steers had Yanmar engines,and IMHO sales were never high due to engine parts prices.

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by john.k View Post
    Ive always steered clear of anything Yanmar because of parts prices.....but $700 for two liners and a ringset is even beyond what Id expect.....I imagine pistons would be similar prices too.....Ive always liked Perkins stuff,used to get a piston ,liner ,rings ,pin kit for $22.,and a head gasket kit for $20.....Something to consider before buying the machine.......The Mustang skid steers had Yanmar engines,and IMHO sales were never high due to engine parts prices.
    two liners, two con rods, two ring sets, four valve stem seals (already open and easy to get to), and a gasket set. Pistons are $150each

    With the price of the parts it's a good thing they don't break often!

  18. #58
    Boolit Master
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    I think i put all four overbore sleeves and pistons in mine for less than two pistons for yours

  19. #59
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    OK, I've tried running 2 beads vertically on the sleeve while my puller is cranked tight, and then hit it with my air chisel all while keeping penetrating oil in it, all to no avail. Got about 1/16 or less up on the front sleeve, but that's it. Haven't tried the rear sleeve yet.

    That sucker is STUCK! Any ideas?

  20. #60
    Boolit Master
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    the last puller I made I used 1" fine thread high strength all thread, turned a stepped puck on my lathe out of 1" steel plate 1"x 2" or 1x3, its been a while, bar stock to make bridge to go outside sleeve and onto the top of the block used several grade 8 washers under nut with lots of grease and had to put a piece of steel pipe over the box wrench on the nut to get the sleeve started out. that was on an old ford 8n or 9n I don't remember which one, some sleeves can be real tough to get moving out. OTC used to make very high quality sleeve puller sets and pucks in many sizes if you can't make your own.

    as far as used pistons if they are in good shape might want to at least get new rings.
    Last edited by farmbif; 04-24-2021 at 07:11 PM.

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