Any Tractor/Mechanic experts here?

[lksmith]

Was starting my old tractor the other day. Got it going and when I put the air intake hose on it sucked some water in (No clue how water got into much less filled up the filter box) and it stopped before I could pull it off. Last time water got into it I just hit the decompression lever turned it over a few times and back in business.
Apparently not so lucky this time! Sucker is locked up tight! took the head off and tried to crank, no luck. next tried to turn the engine over by putting a pipe wrench on the PTO and turning it over (with the head off) and ended up breaking an 18" aluminum pipe wrench into 3 pieces, still no movement.

I'm thinking (hoping) a bent rod is all I have since the pistons are in the correct positions (one at top of cylinder, other at bottom of cylinder) but it ain't moving at all. Doesn't appear to be anything sticking out of the block or any cracks. What else can cause it to stick like that?

If it helps, the tractor is a 1970's Yanmar 2210D diesel with a 2T90 engine. everything I've read about these rigs is that they are dang near bulletproof and fairly easy to work on due to their simplicity

[jim147]

Having built engines for years this seems strange. When you pulled the head was a cylinder full of water or fuel? That would be the bent rod.

How was the oil and oil pressure when it started? It could have stuck a bearing.

[gwrench]

It sounds strange to me too. Before you do any more cranking on it with a wrench I'd strongly suggest you pull the pan and have a look.

[MarkW]

So how long did it run before it stopped, and when it stopped did you hear any sort of sharp noise like a bang or a clack? As mentioned, first thing is to pull the pan and see what you have. If it is locked good and tight like that my best guess is a rod has probably broken and the spinning crankshaft smacked into it while it was hanging down. Anyway, drop the pan and post up a pic or two of what it looks like in there. It's a good sign you don't have a hole in the side of the block, so it may be repairable but you have to see what it looks like first.

[Petrol & Powder]

From the description it sounds highly likely you bent or broke a rod.

Those engine are tough but a hydraulic lock (water in the cylinders) will destroy any engine.

As others have suggested, Pulling the pan off is a good next step.

[lksmith]

Having built engines for years this seems strange. When you pulled the head was a cylinder full of water or fuel? That would be the bent rod.

How was the oil and oil pressure when it started? It could have stuck a bearing.

there was some water but not full, most of the water was in the exhaust manifold. It doesn't have an oil pressure gauge (only gauge is tach) but there was pressure in the oil lines when I took them off and all the stuff under the valve cover was covered in oil, so assuming oil pressy was also good. Oil itself was black but otherwise good.

Tried turning the PTO both ways with no luck. Weather permitting, I plan on dropping the pan tomorrow and get a look from the underside.

Funny thing is, it's my newest piece of diesel equipment and my oldest (1960's dozer) is still running but puking oil out the exhaust and my backhoe (1971) has a fuel delivery issue (injector pump I think) I swear it's a full time job keeping stuff going!

[SOFMatchstaff]

My condolences, diesel motors that liquid lock at anything above cranking rpm are generally a complete write off. You can expect the worst when the pan comes off, head bolts and main cap bolts, check for stretching or pulled threads. $1000 min with you doing the work. I been working on My Duece &half, feel your pain.....

[redneck1]

I'd look for a bent crankshaft when you take it apart . if the yanmars are built anything close to what the two cylinder Kubota engines from the 70's are the crankshaft is the weakest link being a flat plane crank

[lksmith]

I'd look for a bent crankshaft when you take it apart . if the yanmars are built anything close to what the two cylinder Kubota engines from the 70's are the crankshaft is the weakest link being a flat plane crank

I'm hoping it isn't the crank, that would require splitting the tractor to replace, which is FAR beyond my abilities or tools.
Given the way my luck has been going it probably is the crank and everything else attached to it.
Problem I am having now, is that I can't get the oil pan off. The gasket it holding TIGHT!

[lksmith]

OK, Got the pan off with a board and my "engineering hammer" (8# sledge with 12" handle). Crank was perfectly vertical (as expected by piston position). Pulled both caps off the bottom and the crank moved when turned by hand, also the rear piston moved up and down freely.
All damage appears to be confined to the front piston which was up. I did find s small pieces of metal in the pan, that look to either be bottom of the sleeve or bottom of the piston skirt. The front piston is stuck firmly no visible damage or damage I can feel. Going to let the oil drip off a little and hit it with some carb cleaner so I can move the drain pan out from under it and get a better look feel. At present looks like I am looking at about $450 in parts, $430 if I reuse the rod bearings which look/feel fine since there was no slack or play in the bottom end

[jim147]

Did the front rod break or just seize the piston in the sleeve?

[lksmith]

Did the front rod break or just seize the piston in the sleeve?

Looks like it just siezed in the sleeve. got everything moving, but pushed the pistons down too far and the oil control ring (bottom ring) expanded and I can't push it up or pull it out. I guess i'll try to break the ring to pull them out the top. Might get lucky and only need to replace rings and maybe a sleeve.
I think I'll have to pull the crank to resleeve it, but maybe not

[john.k]

Caterpillar D9s are the only motors Ive worked on where the piston can go in from underneath....the liner may have broken from the pressure hit and trapped a ring at the top.......anyway,there is no need to remove the crank to replace a liner.....Cranks are pretty tough,I had a Mazda truck that dropped a valve ,smashed piston and head and bent the rod considerable......never needed to replace the crank or the main bearings......did pull the main bolts beside to check for stretch or cracks ,they were OK and went back.....the truck was still running OK years later when I quit ,but the cab was so rusty it used to rain inside.

[lksmith]

Caterpillar D9s are the only motors Ive worked on where the piston can go in from underneath....the liner may have broken from the pressure hit and trapped a ring at the top.......anyway,there is no need to remove the crank to replace a liner.....Cranks are pretty tough,I had a Mazda truck that dropped a valve ,smashed piston and head and bent the rod considerable......never needed to replace the crank or the main bearings......did pull the main bolts beside to check for stretch or cracks ,they were OK and went back.....the truck was still running OK years later when I quit ,but the cab was so rusty it used to rain inside.

From the looks of it the inside of the engine looks like a new one, no rust and it still has the primer on the inside of the case. Crank is about as big around as my wrist where the rods bolt on, so probably tougher than what's in my pickup with 380hp

So how do I get a liner out? Block of wood and beat the crap out of it from the bottom? Right now head is off so nothing I can see holding the liner in.

On the bright side, I figured out why my 4wd quit, bracket bent over about 1/4" that supports the outer drive shaft. A few good whacks with a BFH ought to bend it back in place

[Petrol & Powder]

The wrist pin in the piston may no longer be where it should be. You will not know until you get everything apart.

[redneck1]

Liners can be tough to remove on old engines that probably haven't ever had any conditioner used in the coolant .

I'd do some research and find out what sort of liner is in the block .
You might very well be able to just use a block of wood and start wacking on it as long as its not a press fit . or jack it out .

I watched a rather inventive mechanic push out a stubborn liner with an exhaust pipe expander and a bottle jack once ..

[jim147]

With the crankshaft installed you will need to use wood or a brass punch to knock out the sleeve. Check closely for any cracks between cylinders or in the head. Should look like a white line.

If the piston is stuck you could use a wood block in the rod to knock the whole thing out.

[Finster101]

If you get it running again I would dang sure find out how the breather box got filled or this time fixing it could just be practice.

[Plate plinker]

The wrist pin in the piston may no longer be where it should be. You will not know until you get everything apart.

I think your onto something there.

[lksmith]

If you get it running again I would dang sure find out how the breather box got filled or this time fixing it could just be practice.

I think I'll drill a drain hole or 2 in the bottom. I am totally perplexed how any water got in there (and not in the open intake) much less how it got full. The deepest water it's ever been in was still below the oil pan, the hood is down and the only place for water to enter the housing is the snorkel at the very top just below the hood.