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Thread: Any Tractor/Mechanic experts here?

  1. #81
    Boolit Mold
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    Like John said make sure the liner counterbore is spotless clean and the O-ring roove as well. We used to use a good wire wheel on a die grinder to clean out the groove and counterbore as well as the deck of the block. A gasket prep disk like they sell will remove metal and can upset the level of the deck surface is use too aggressively. Ohh and plug the holes over the lifters before cleaning and clean and blow out the headbolt holes when finished.

    Ideally you should drop the liners in without o-rings and measure liner protrusion as mentioned previously. But if the counterbores look good and when you drop the liners in and you can feel they are above the deck surface buy catching them with your fingernails they are probably OK. I have the tooling to check that and would help ya if you were close by.

  2. #82
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by ruger1980 View Post
    Like John said make sure the liner counterbore is spotless clean and the O-ring roove as well. We used to use a good wire wheel on a die grinder to clean out the groove and counterbore as well as the deck of the block. A gasket prep disk like they sell will remove metal and can upset the level of the deck surface is use too aggressively. Ohh and plug the holes over the lifters before cleaning and clean and blow out the headbolt holes when finished.

    Ideally you should drop the liners in without o-rings and measure liner protrusion as mentioned previously. But if the counterbores look good and when you drop the liners in and you can feel they are above the deck surface buy catching them with your fingernails they are probably OK. I have the tooling to check that and would help ya if you were close by.
    I used a lint free rag to wipe the areas out. No snags. Pulled out the old o-rings and cleaned the grooves. Slid them in went in by hand all but the last 3/8" or so, put a block of wood across the top and a quick rap on the wood and it went in flush. Was getting ready to put the pistons back in and found out that one had cracked one of the riser areas between the top two rings. so now to order another piston and wait another week.

  3. #83
    Boolit Buddy
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    Here's the old rod vs new rod. Both looked like this
    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #84
    Boolit Buddy
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    That's a pretty good bend. Sure don't need to put that in a rod jig to know it's not right.

  5. #85
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by lksmith View Post
    Here's the old rod vs new rod. Both looked like this
    Click image for larger version. 

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    If both rods were bent like that, I would replace both pistons!

  6. #86
    Boolit Buddy
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    I missed the both, how smooth does that crank turn?

  7. #87
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim147 View Post
    I missed the both, how smooth does that crank turn?
    easily turns by hand just like turning a heavy piece of pipe on a rail. Nothing seems to catch or feel off, but then again, I'm not a a mechanic.

    Apparently the rear cylinder cycled the water and exhausted it into the manifold, bending the first rod (and probably damaging the piston) and then the engine stopped when the second cylinder filled with water (bending that rod but not breaking the piston) since it still had water in the cylinder.
    Last edited by lksmith; 05-04-2021 at 06:39 PM.

  8. #88
    Boolit Master
    Plate plinker's Avatar
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    Amazing that the entire engine didn't suffer more serious damage.

  9. #89
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plate plinker View Post
    Amazing that the entire engine didn't suffer more serious damage.
    Everybody says that these things are tough and nearly unkillable, guess I accidently proved it.
    Guess I'll find out for sure whenever the other piston comes in

  10. #90
    Boolit Buddy
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    OK, so I got the engine back together except for the exhaust and belt drive. Still gotta tighten a few clamps and top off the coolant once the block fills.
    The good: Got it to start! to quote a line from City Slickers, "I'm happier than a puppy with two peters!"
    The bad: Ended up breaking the top ring as I was putting the last piston in, so had to order another set at $60.


    Now to tighten clamps, and put all the other parts back on and hope that I don't have to do anything else to it for another 40 years
    Last edited by lksmith; 05-13-2021 at 04:38 PM.

  11. #91
    Boolit Buddy
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    Sucks on the ring but like casting it is a learning curve. Glad you got it running.

  12. #92
    Boolit Master
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    The motor in my 70 year old crane was frozen from rainwater ,freed it up,and drilled some 1/4 holes in the bottom of the exhaust manifold.......wont get water in the cylinders again.

  13. #93
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    Glad you got it running.

    Sucks to be putting something together and get caught doing something you know not to do. I did that a couple of weeks ago when replacing bearings in cast iron idler sheeves for a Woods belly mower. Replacement sheeve with bearing was $76 plus gas and time to go get it.

    I supported it across the edge of the pulley, not near the center. When I realized what was happening, I couldn't stop putting pressure on the press fast enough. Crack.

    As I told the parts man, "Stupidity should be painful".

    At least I have a new bearing in the shop for when these wear out, IF I can remember it.

    The new to me old Kubota sure does cut grass well though.

    Robert

  14. #94
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim147 View Post
    Sucks on the ring but like casting it is a learning curve. Glad you got it running.
    You're right! Never tried to rebuild a diesel before, and only the second engine I've tried to rebuild. I think the other one might run again one day

    Only problem now, is the darn thing is harder to start than ever before. Just has to crank and crank and crank before it'll kick off. I hope that's due to the rings and sleeves getting seated and temporary

  15. #95
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    You know how difficult it is to find a crank pully for a 54 austin 100 in 65? I did learn how to remove them without breaking, afterwards.
    Whatever!

  16. #96
    Boolit Buddy
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    Well the Saga continues...SMH
    Got it together (except for one clamp) tried to move it, and it has almost no power. Driving it across the yard and hot specs of something (ash I hope) started coming out of the stack hitting me and burning a hole in one of my good shirts. Shut it down immediately. But feel like I'm back at square one. The only part of the rotating assembly that could be removed without splitting, that wasn't replaced is one piston.
    It fit tighter in the sleeve than the new one, but measured in round and everything moved as it should. not sure what the problem is. Hope fully something easy like ash blowing off and an airleak in an injector.

    Any other ideas?

  17. #97
    Boolit Buddy
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    Did you make adjustments to the injection timing? That might explain the low power and the difficulty starting.

  18. #98
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by downzero View Post
    Did you make adjustments to the injection timing? That might explain the low power and the difficulty starting.
    Nope. I moved/changed the bare minimum. I didn't adjust with any fuel, timing, or valve train parts.
    Only thing I did to the fuel system (other than unhook fuel lines) was change the fuel filter. Made sure to fill it with fuel and it ran after, so ruling that out as a cause

  19. #99
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    Run your valves again, the new head gasket may be thicker than the old one. That will change valve lash, and make a big difference in performance.

    Got all the air out of the injector lines? Should be since you had it running, but its an idea.

    Robert

  20. #100
    Boolit Master
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    Yes,with the motor running ,loosen each injector pipe nut just enough for fuel to drip from the nut...any air will come out as foam ,close the nut and the motor should run evenly again.....do the other cylinder the same.......its likely the burning bits in the exhaust are carbon and rust loosened when the head was taken off......If anything is wrong with a piston/cylinder,the motor wont turn over easliy after stopping ,or refuse to turn........Some of the little motors its hard to get the system full of coolant/water again,they get airlocks in places..........WARNING...fuel spray from the nut/pipe is very dangerous if you touch it ,or it penetrates your skin........get medical treatment straight away.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check