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Thread: Any Tractor/Mechanic experts here?

  1. #61
    Boolit Master
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    there is an outfit that has videos on youtube how to rebuild Farmall engines and they advertise they will make sleeve puller pucks. there is a pretty young lady and her husband that do the work. you will know when you get to the right video, a young lady rebuilding tractor engine,
    I would offer to make you a puck but sold my big lathe when I moved
    might check mscdirect for high strength all thread and grade 8 nuts if you don't have local source.
    its very important to make puller legs both exactly same length so sleeve is pulled straight.
    if you pound on sleeve it will crack up and then you will be left with option of cutting it out somehow without damaging block or getting portable van Norman or kwikway boring bar to cut it out.
    Last edited by farmbif; 04-24-2021 at 07:18 PM.

  2. #62
    Boolit Master


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    Wet sleeves generally come loose once they move about an inch. It is possible that someone coated it with green sleeve retainer and it's REAL stiff. Fill the jug with ice or dry ice and then hit it with more chissle. Ironically many times people have problem keeping sleeves in vs out.

  3. #63
    Boolit Master
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    Yes ,as mentioned 1" UNF is a better thread for a puller...1/2 is too small.....and use some pure moly MoS2 on the parts that move........I never bet on wet sleeves ,because someone may have had trouble with leaks before (unless you bought it new),and used some liquid sealant .... may also be well stuck with rust if inhibitor hasnt been used all the time.

  4. #64
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmbif View Post
    the last puller I made I used 1" fine thread high strength all thread, turned a stepped puck on my lathe out of 1" steel plate 1"x 2" or 1x3, its been a while, bar stock to make bridge to go outside sleeve and onto the top of the block used several grade 8 washers under nut with lots of grease and had to put a piece of steel pipe over the box wrench on the nut to get the sleeve started out. that was on an old ford 8n or 9n I don't remember which one, some sleeves can be real tough to get moving out. OTC used to make very high quality sleeve puller sets and pucks in many sizes if you can't make your own.

    as far as used pistons if they are in good shape might want to at least get new rings.
    I got new rings, rods, gaskets ang jugs. Went ahead and got fuel filters and valve stem sleeves since they're cheap and don't add to shipping.
    I'll get some dry ice tomorrow and see if it works, it certainly can't hurt.
    Hopefully with the puller keeping pressure the ice will shrink it enough. SHOULD be a pretty quick and easy job once they're out.
    I will have to polish one small spot where the electrode touched the head between the cylinders after the the welder shocked the crap out of me

  5. #65
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lube that puller and crank it down hard. All you need is a little temp change to get it moving again.

  6. #66
    Boolit Master
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    hope you can get em out without big problem, there's an old trick of putting new sleeves in freezer to shrink em a bit before putting them in block and using a little dish detergent or some guys use glycerin , from a pharmacist, for lube

  7. #67
    Boolit Buddy
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    Tried the dry ice thing, while cranking the puller. No dice. Found a 10ton puller with several pucks for under $200 delivered. I can't get one made for that. Also, with the generator that I run my welder off of on the fritz I am extremely limited in my fabrication ability.
    Once I get the sleeves out it OUGHT to go back together fairly easily (I hope). Will certainly try to sleeve in the freezer thing though.

  8. #68
    Boolit Master


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    bummer. once the sleeve is out.. look for lots of rust.

    ps.. hope the sleeve isn't damaged locking it in place somehow.

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soundguy View Post
    bummer. once the sleeve is out.. look for lots of rust.

    ps.. hope the sleeve isn't damaged locking it in place somehow.
    the sleeve is toast regardless, I just hope the bore that the sleeve goes into is good, which it should be

  10. #70
    Boolit Buddy
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    I've never put wet sleeves in a freezer. Dry sleeves yes.

    Once you have the old sleeves out and clean the holes up the new sleeves should drop in by hand without the o rings to measure surface protrusion.

  11. #71
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by lksmith View Post
    the sleeve is toast regardless, I just hope the bore that the sleeve goes into is good, which it should be
    That was my point..hope there isn't a hidden window the piston is hiding.

  12. #72
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    I don't have experience with sleeves but with lots of experience fighting stuck parts. The hot/cold trick is a good one.

    I had a front axle pivot bolt on a tractor stuck hard. 3/4 impact couldn't budge it with heat on the axle. Fortunately the bolt was hollow and with ice inside, heat outside and the 3/4 impact it finally came loose.

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soundguy View Post
    That was my point..hope there isn't a hidden window the piston is hiding.
    The only sleeve damage from the piston/rod is at the very bottom a chink is taken out. The bores are good.

  14. #74
    Boolit Master
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    I would not put the sleeve in the freezer for installation for the reason it may make the rubber seal hard or brittle......Its dry sleeves that are shrunk by cold for installation.....for instance the old 711 Mack needed liquid nitrogen to get the required 008 shrink for installation.......the -170 deg cold made the liner a drop in to the block...you had to wear thick padded gloves to avoid frostbite...or worse.

  15. #75
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    FINALLY got the sleeves pulled! Ended up buying a hydraulic puller, made easy work of it. the sleeves looked good for their age, still had crosshatching in most of the bore. Not a lot of rust on them or in the block either. Now to see if I can put it back together AND it run

  16. #76
    Boolit Master
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    That’s great news. Watching this thread for educational purposes.

  17. #77
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    When installing the new liners ,its critical that the liner seating ledge in the top of the block is perfectly clean,and a good idea to blow out (with compressed air) the seating just before the liner is pushed down the final 1/2"......if any uneven seating due to dirt ,burrs,etc stops the liner from seating evenly all round ,the top flange may crack off the liner when the head is tightened down.

  18. #78
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    Did Not read this whole thread:
    We have a 22 HP Yanmar Diesel Tractor ( Circa 1970's)
    Runs very well & heavily used.... only Serious Problem we had ( Manifesting itself in many different ways driving us crazy ) was the battery ground strap connection which corrodes and the wire to the starter being too small gauge...needed to beef it up
    " Associate with men of good quality, if you esteem your own reputation: for it is better to be alone than in bad company. " George Washington

  19. #79
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    Will the new sleeves drop in by hand?

  20. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim147 View Post
    Will the new sleeves drop in by hand?
    they look like they will. Making sure to clean everything before putting the new sleeves and other parts in.
    Got them out, got the o-rings out, and then the rain started moving in.
    I'm working on it out in the yard and covering with a tarp in between, so at the mercy of the weather

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check