I have a RCBS Pro Melt 2, I bought a couple of years ago. It works great so far. The biggest down side is waiting for it to cool to under 160 degrees before turning it off, as per the instructions.
I have a RCBS Pro Melt 2, I bought a couple of years ago. It works great so far. The biggest down side is waiting for it to cool to under 160 degrees before turning it off, as per the instructions.
A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.
I use an electronic timer for that. Hit the 4 hour button and walk away...of course I set the pot to 0 first.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
NRA Benefactor.
What would be the better pot?
Which Rowell do you use? I’d need to be able to fill a 6-cavity 230-grain.
Veral Smith of LBT has been a proponent of ladle-casting.
Personally I find it a lot more ergonomic than hunching down to try and see to align sprue holes and spout.
If that is the case and you don't mind ladle casting get a turkey fryer. The higher pressure(?) red regulator is usually preferred.
As for hunching over using a bottom pour, I use a kitchen cabinet height bench and an office chair that lines me up fairly close. I think the key to lining up the spout is good light under the pot.
A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.
You could clean and lap the rod to the seat. That will help a bit. Adding some weight to the wire that lifts the rod will help.
Some have placed the rod on the other side of the wire. This may point the rod straighter into the spout.
I had a Pro Pot years ago. It leaked but I learned to work around it. It's 10 LB. capacity was ok if you weren't making a lot at a time. Going to the 4-20 I have now was a great upgrade. It drips very seldom as long as I use clean alloy. The 20 lb. capacity lets you get more boolts cast in a session.
If you don't mind ladle casting you can empty your pot, removethe handle and rod. I'm not sure if you can remove the spout, if you can do so and replace it with a short bolt with a shank big enough to fill the hole. Gring the head down so it's shorter and rounded. Makes it easier to stir the alloy without catching on the bolt.
If you can't remove the spout you can plug it permanently by threading the hole in the spout from the bottom to what ever size small bolt that will fit.
Then you use it as a ladle pot.
Even if you get another pot dfoing this lets you keep some alloy melted so when your main pot gets low you add the molten alloy from the lee pot to the maiun pot, then add ingots to theLee pot. This helps the main pot stay at casting temp or at least it can retur to castig temp quickly.
Leo
Do you have natural gas at your farm? If so there are several videos on you tube to convert to natural gas. I figured you were talking propane stove when you said you "could cast out at the farm where there’s no electricity".
You could also look into building a waste oil burner.
A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.
That long shut down on the RCBS pot seems like a problem with the engineering dept. to me.
I don't understand why they brought it to market like that. It looks like a very nice pot and it's not cheap makes no sense to me to have that silly shutdown procedure .
A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.
If the PID is that sensitive they are using the wrong one. I use them in commercial applications all the time.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |