anneal?

[444ttd]

i have a bunch of 30-06 brass that i want to make into 7x57 and 8x57 mauser and 7.65x53 argentine.

do i anneal first or after i cut and deburr them?

[ulav8r]

YEP. Do a 3 piece sample each way and see which works better. Maybe do a check first to determine if the brass is hard or soft. The correct answer depends on whether the brass is military or commercial and when and where it was produced. If it is all the same source then one answer is probably more correct than the other. If it is mixed source, then one process may may not be correct for all.

[444ttd]

urg!!!! most of my brass is range pick up.

[BK7saum]

It really depends. Sometimes if you annealing first,you will collapse the shoulder and ruin the case. If it will form as is, I think I would form and anneal later. It really isn't a huge stretch from -06 to 8x57. Then maybe anneal before going to 7x57.

If there are any dings or chips/cracks in the case mouths, they may split on the sizing up to 8mm. Id make sure they are round and maybe trim slightly and/or chamfer to uniform the case mouth. They will size up/down better that way.

[Mk42gunner]

I've always had better luck annealing after all the forming is done.

Experimenting as ulav8r says does make sense.

Robert

[TNsailorman]

Yes, do an little experiment with 5 or 6 cases each way and see what works for you. I form my 8mm from 30-06, .270 Win., .280 Rem., and sometimes I do a few out of .25-06 but not much. I definitely would lean to annealing before forming my .25-06 as that is a long jump. Even necking up in increments like .280, .30, and then .32 and you can loose a few cases out of a hundred--not many but a few. Then there is the annealing method and the skill of the operator. I truly confess that I have a hard time of seeing the color change correctly and have a few time ended up having to stop for a better day and the right light conditions. I anneal with a torch by hand with the case being turned in a deep socket with a hand drill. I have mulled over the idea of a annealing machine but they are not cheap; and I am. james

[white eagle]

i have a bunch of 30-06 brass that i want to make into 7x57 and 8x57 mauser and 7.65x53 argentine.

do i anneal first or after i cut and deburr them?

I would your reshaping these cases enough that you want a
more malleable case that will make is easier on you and the brass

[blackthorn]

I made .22 HP out of 30-30, using a 25-35 die as a first step. I tried annealing first but lost more than 50% of the donor cases. Tried several different headstamps and found Federal cases worked best with almost no crushed cases. The federal cases seem to be more malleable.

[pworley1]

I usually anneal first if I am increasing the size of the neck and after if I am decreasing it.

[3006guns]

Yes, do an little experiment with 5 or 6 cases each way and see what works for you. I form my 8mm from 30-06, .270 Win., .280 Rem., and sometimes I do a few out of .25-06 but not much. I definitely would lean to annealing before forming my .25-06 as that is a long jump. Even necking up in increments like .280, .30, and then .32 and you can loose a few cases out of a hundred--not many but a few. Then there is the annealing method and the skill of the operator. I truly confess that I have a hard time of seeing the color change correctly and have a few time ended up having to stop for a better day and the right light conditions. I anneal with a torch by hand with the case being turned in a deep socket with a hand drill. I have mulled over the idea of a annealing machine but they are not cheap; and I am. james

My method of annealing rifle caliber cases:

Have a tub of water handy, as on the table in front of you. Hold the case by the base and heat the neck/shoulder area with a propane torch, while constantly rotating it back and forth with your fingers. When the heat reaches your fingers and gets uncomfortable......as in "Jeez, that's hot!".......drop it in the water. Your fingers are a pretty good indicator of heat and you'll let go long before the brass reaches a critical temperature. You'll also need to dip your fingers in the water occasionally......

The result will be a darkened neck/shoulder area and the case is now ready to form.

I've formed hundreds of 8mm Mauser rounds from 30-06 by running the lubed case into a file/form die, cutting off the excess and finish trimming afterwards. THEN I anneal them, just to relieve any built up tension from the forming process. I also run them into a standard sizing die before loading to ensure uniformity. Out of all those cases, I think I may have lost ten or so.....pretty decent production! I've never done 7mm Mauser, but suspect I'd have to inside ream the necks, since the brass is being compressed to a smaller size.

Again, this all depends on the donor cases so experimentation will be needed.