ADvertise hereInline FabricationRepackboxRotoMetals2
Lee PrecisionReloading UKTitan Reloading

Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: anneal?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master 444ttd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    663

    anneal?

    i have a bunch of 30-06 brass that i want to make into 7x57 and 8x57 mauser and 7.65x53 argentine.

    do i anneal first or after i cut and deburr them?
    The leading Bolsheviks who took over Russia were not Russians. They hated Russians. They hated Christians. Driven by ethnic hatred they tortured and slaughtered millions of Russians without a shred of human remorse. It cannot be overstated. Bolshevism committed the greatest human slaughter of all time. The fact that most of the world is ignorant and uncaring about this enormous crime is proof that the global media is in the hands of the perpetrators. ~ Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    NC Arkansas
    Posts
    807
    YEP. Do a 3 piece sample each way and see which works better. Maybe do a check first to determine if the brass is hard or soft. The correct answer depends on whether the brass is military or commercial and when and where it was produced. If it is all the same source then one answer is probably more correct than the other. If it is mixed source, then one process may may not be correct for all.
    Spell check doesn't work in Chrome, so if something is spelled wrong, it's just a typo that I missed.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master 444ttd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    663
    urg!!!! most of my brass is range pick up.
    The leading Bolsheviks who took over Russia were not Russians. They hated Russians. They hated Christians. Driven by ethnic hatred they tortured and slaughtered millions of Russians without a shred of human remorse. It cannot be overstated. Bolshevism committed the greatest human slaughter of all time. The fact that most of the world is ignorant and uncaring about this enormous crime is proof that the global media is in the hands of the perpetrators. ~ Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    oklahoma
    Posts
    1,929
    It really depends. Sometimes if you annealing first,you will collapse the shoulder and ruin the case. If it will form as is, I think I would form and anneal later. It really isn't a huge stretch from -06 to 8x57. Then maybe anneal before going to 7x57.

    If there are any dings or chips/cracks in the case mouths, they may split on the sizing up to 8mm. Id make sure they are round and maybe trim slightly and/or chamfer to uniform the case mouth. They will size up/down better that way.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Butler, MO
    Posts
    7,269
    I've always had better luck annealing after all the forming is done.

    Experimenting as ulav8r says does make sense.

    Robert

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    TNsailorman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Northeast Tennessee Hills
    Posts
    1,825
    Yes, do an little experiment with 5 or 6 cases each way and see what works for you. I form my 8mm from 30-06, .270 Win., .280 Rem., and sometimes I do a few out of .25-06 but not much. I definitely would lean to annealing before forming my .25-06 as that is a long jump. Even necking up in increments like .280, .30, and then .32 and you can loose a few cases out of a hundred--not many but a few. Then there is the annealing method and the skill of the operator. I truly confess that I have a hard time of seeing the color change correctly and have a few time ended up having to stop for a better day and the right light conditions. I anneal with a torch by hand with the case being turned in a deep socket with a hand drill. I have mulled over the idea of a annealing machine but they are not cheap; and I am. james

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master
    white eagle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    718 miles E. of Wall Drug
    Posts
    5,514
    Quote Originally Posted by 444ttd View Post
    i have a bunch of 30-06 brass that i want to make into 7x57 and 8x57 mauser and 7.65x53 argentine.

    do i anneal first or after i cut and deburr them?
    I would your reshaping these cases enough that you want a
    more malleable case that will make is easier on you and the brass
    Hit em'hard
    hit em'often

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    B.C. Canada
    Posts
    2,464
    I made .22 HP out of 30-30, using a 25-35 die as a first step. I tried annealing first but lost more than 50% of the donor cases. Tried several different headstamps and found Federal cases worked best with almost no crushed cases. The federal cases seem to be more malleable.
    R.D.M.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

    pworley1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    1,657
    I usually anneal first if I am increasing the size of the neck and after if I am decreasing it.
    NRA Benefactor Member NRA Golden Eagle

  10. #10
    Boolit Master



    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Alturas, California...where the west still lives!
    Posts
    2,229
    Quote Originally Posted by TNsailorman View Post
    Yes, do an little experiment with 5 or 6 cases each way and see what works for you. I form my 8mm from 30-06, .270 Win., .280 Rem., and sometimes I do a few out of .25-06 but not much. I definitely would lean to annealing before forming my .25-06 as that is a long jump. Even necking up in increments like .280, .30, and then .32 and you can loose a few cases out of a hundred--not many but a few. Then there is the annealing method and the skill of the operator. I truly confess that I have a hard time of seeing the color change correctly and have a few time ended up having to stop for a better day and the right light conditions. I anneal with a torch by hand with the case being turned in a deep socket with a hand drill. I have mulled over the idea of a annealing machine but they are not cheap; and I am. james
    My method of annealing rifle caliber cases:

    Have a tub of water handy, as on the table in front of you. Hold the case by the base and heat the neck/shoulder area with a propane torch, while constantly rotating it back and forth with your fingers. When the heat reaches your fingers and gets uncomfortable......as in "Jeez, that's hot!".......drop it in the water. Your fingers are a pretty good indicator of heat and you'll let go long before the brass reaches a critical temperature. You'll also need to dip your fingers in the water occasionally......

    The result will be a darkened neck/shoulder area and the case is now ready to form.

    I've formed hundreds of 8mm Mauser rounds from 30-06 by running the lubed case into a file/form die, cutting off the excess and finish trimming afterwards. THEN I anneal them, just to relieve any built up tension from the forming process. I also run them into a standard sizing die before loading to ensure uniformity. Out of all those cases, I think I may have lost ten or so.....pretty decent production! I've never done 7mm Mauser, but suspect I'd have to inside ream the necks, since the brass is being compressed to a smaller size.

    Again, this all depends on the donor cases so experimentation will be needed.
    Last edited by 3006guns; 04-15-2021 at 09:02 AM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check