In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.
OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
EVERYONE!
Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.
Larry Gibson
“Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
― Nikola Tesla
The late Bruce B posted a great thread about this. Done correctly it works but is fairly tedious.
A good thing to know, I guess, but not really practical if you have other options.
Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.
search the BruceB method - and you may have to use the way back machine to do it?
Wayne the Shrink
There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!
A lot of guys have been shooting WW lead at deer for long time and many of them shooting it naked and lubed and slower. Maybe 1600. Read on someone pouring some SL in the tip, let it cool. Then pour HL over top and let it cool. Dip mold into pot until the sprue melts without tipping it. Lift out, don't jossle it and let it cool to be welded. Sounds like way too much work. Shooting a bullet with a big meplat will help more than that round target tip. Round tips are for targets and long distance shooting and FP bullets are for killing.
I am going to use some WW lead I have that registers about an 11 for me. I am planning on running them just under 2000 and powder coating to replace jacket and see how that hangs. If I don;t get any leading then I might try the water bottle and wet jeans for expansion test later this summer.
i spend considerable time with this method and various ways and techniques, I found 2 pots running very hot worked best for me. Now a little softer(i don't need more than 4) and flat nose and HP works for me.
Look twice, shoot once.
Check this out:
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...d+cast+boolits
This is just the tip of the iceberg.
Wolfdog91,
Enjoy and best regards!
Three44s
Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207
“There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”
Not the Gamekings (which is what I use) but still a good bullet...In stock and a decent price:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...ampaign=741952
I view casting of .30 cal. (or smaller) hunting bullets as a waste of time and resources. With a box of decent jacketed bullets you will get a sub 2 MOA load before using up about 50 bullets. The other 50 bullets will put deer on the table for another 5 years. A couple of three shot groups to check zero every year and a couple to hunt with.
BTW, I bought 5 boxes of the 165 GameKings about 8 years ago. Worked up loads for two .hunting rifles and have about 350 bullets left. A lifetime supply for less than $150. You will invest that in a mold, or molds, and components trying to find a cast .30 cal bullet that gives you 2500 fps with 2 MOA accuracy and a bit of expansion. (Bear in mind the current cost of powder and primers, and plan on 15-25 combinations of molds, alloys, lubes, bullet sizing, and loads to find something useable).
If you want to cast .30 bullets for target shooting go for it. It will teach you how tough it is achieve jacketed performance. I see a lot of posts using .308's with cast bullets at less than .30/30 levels for deer hunting. Negates the reason to use a .308 IMO.
And as Shelly posted sometimes it a search for experience.
Bottom line is you need to establish why you cast. If doing it for "fun", how much you spend is not that important. My opinions are based on my needs....I only cast to save money...it is a tedious and boring way to spend my time. When I hunt, I want the deck stacked in my favor, and cast bullets are a distant second place in the .30 calibers.
Don Verna
Didn't Lyman offer a 2 piece bullet that you cast in separate molds and glue together .
I never tried them figuring they would separate on impact . But similar idea .
Yes, Lyman offered several two piece molds. I believe in 38, 44, and 45. The nose portion was to be cast of a soft allow and the rear of a harder alloy. The two portions were to be epoxied together. Several CBA members also published methods of producing soft nosed case bullets by either putting a small amount of solid pure lead in the nose of a hot mold and then filling the rest of the mold with a harder molten alloy or by pouring a small amount of molten pure lead into the nose of a hot mold followed by filling the mold with a harder molten alloy. At one time some one offered a bottom pour pot that had two sections. One was intended to contain pure lead for the nose, while the other would contain the harder alloy for the base. It was my understanding that the pot was designed to allow you to limit the pour of pure lead, so there would be consistency between bullets. This was gee 30 years ago. I think.
Bill
Pole vaulting over a mouse turd. Standard cast bullets with a nice meplat have been killing game effectively for decades at this point. Neat idea, but is it worth the extra effort?
Here is how I did it, 2 pots one 4 lber for nose alloy and 10 pounder to finish fill. Made a dedicated ladle of the volume for the nose, think powder dipper here.I cut the mouth at 20* or so so the low side was the limit and high side formed a spout. Attached a handle with insulator on it. Run both pots side by side. run 4 lb dipper pot on the warm side around 800* and the 10 lb in the 750*range. You have to move quick. Fill nose with the ladle and mive under the 10 lb and fill t a large sprue. Let sprue cool. when mould is up to temp you will only see the difference in color between the 2 alloys
another route for cast bullet expansion is the old Paper Patched bullet. All soft lead with the paper jacket contacting the bore.
On evilbay I've seen a lot of electronics related kits etc. from China etc. listed as "welding" instead of soldering so this was easy to figure out, for me, but at first I was trying to figure out how welding was supposed to be involved, LOL - Language can be hard until I have some caffeine onboard
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |