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Thread: Small-frame snubby recommendations

  1. #41
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    ddixie884, I don't own a Ruger LCR but I've shot them. I agree they have a lot going for them.
    In fact, the LCR may check quite a few of the boxes on the OP's list.
    The LCR is suitable for pocket carry, is chambered in the appropriate cartridge, has decent sights and a good DA trigger.

  2. #42
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    P&P has the good scoop in his posts.

    As to .38spl or .357mag, it's .38 for me and no .357 wanted or needed. That's a lotta horsepower to hold with such a lightweight handgun. For the most part, I address the snubby as an easy concealed carry, up close and personal defensive weapon that's mostly point 'n' shoot. I painted the front sight day-glow orange and that was good enuf for inside of 10-15 yards for all rounds into body mass. It MUST be hammerless, too, preferably a concealed hammer, too - even if you think you'll never pocket the gun, because eventually you'll realize its forte and it'll get pocketed sooner than later.

    I like the S&W 642c I had ...

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #43
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    Here's a demonstration on how a high ride holster can aid in concealment.

    Same belt, but with a high ride OWB holster (probably an old G&G ?) and a 3" K-frame.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Despite the significantly larger gun, even less of the holster extends beyond the lower edge of the belt. Because there's more leather to work with, the holster maker could position the belt loops lower and therefore position more of the gun above the belt. Notice the relationship of the cylinder to the belt.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #44
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petrol & Powder View Post
    Outpost, I too find the K-frames and Colt D-frames much easier to work with but in the end, I sometimes have to compromise with the smaller J-frame for other reasons.
    The reality is the K-frame just gives you more gun to hang onto and therefore it's easier to do good work with the K-frame.

    I have 100% reliability with bobbed hammers and I wouldn't tolerate anything less for a gun carried for self-defense.
    I take it then you are not shortening the hammer arc in converting to DAO? Expect that you fire 100 rounds of your carry ammo and accept on "O" FTF and tweak fitup again if you get one? Jerry Kieffer was near you and used to check Cu indent when he was with Richmond PD. Was unable to after he retired because he couldn't get the coppers. Sadly he's no longer with us. I use Sandy Garrett at NoVA Gun Works these days.
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  5. #45
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    A great thread here.

    I will add to those that say the mode of carry has a LOT to do with body shape and wardrobe. In my younger years I wore tight jeans and fitted shirts. No way to conceal much that way.

    Now days I have a lot more 'fluff' and wear baggy pants and shirts. I can easily conceal a full size 1911 with an IWB holster. My preferred carry is an OWB pancake holster and my 'fluff' helps conceal the grip area just fine.

    Wardrobe. When I rode a motorcycle a lot the pants I wore were made from padded 1000d Cordura with 'armor' pads at hips and knee. I could slip the SP101 (.357Mag) in the front pocket and didn't even know it was there. Could not do the same even with loose jeans. Would drag the pants down on that side.

    I am considering another snubbie and really like the LCR. Just trying to decide on .38, .357 and whether to get 3" barrel or not.

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  6. #46
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    For a pocket carry, the LCR is the way to go. I would not recommend the LCRX 3" for pocket carry, they simply become too big unless you have huge pockets. I would actually steer you to the 6 shot 327 fed mag, but between the 38 special or 357 magnum, I choose the 38 special. It is lighter, and a 357 magnum is unpleasant at best in such a lightweight. The 327 LCR can shoot quite the fireball with Federal factory loads, but isn't as bad with the heavier bullet handloads.

  7. #47
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    The .327 Fed Mag is a great round! I really liked shooting it and the resulting accuracy, but the .38spl got my nod since that cartridge is pretty ubiquitous and I can get all the once fired brass for free at my local cop range.

  8. #48
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    Outpost75, the bobbed hammers lose the spur and nothing else. That drops a few grams off the mass off the hammer but it doesn't affect reliability. I function test with carry ammo (usually far in excess of 100 rounds) and with handloads using CCI primers. The only time I ever had a problem was when I sent a 2" K-frame off to a gunsmith and I think we had a misunderstanding. I corrected the issue and I cannot place the blame on him because I think it was a communication issue.

    Charlie B, I have a real attraction to 3" barreled DA revolvers but they are outside of my arbitrary definition of "snubnose". (which I set at 2.5" of barrel length)
    A 3" barrel is no longer a pocket gun (even some 2.25" barrels are not pocket guns). So as much as I like the 3" tube on a DA revolver, those are holster guns. That's not a deal breaker, just cut-off point for me. Once I step up to a 3" barrel, a full size grip and a holster, I'm squarely in K-frame, GP-100 or Speed-Six territory. This isn't set in stone, just a personal view.

  9. #49
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    Keep in mind an LCR is significant bigger than a J frame 442 or 642 when it comes to pocket carry.
    You may want to try before you buy.

  10. #50
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    Going ALL the way back to the OP : "I’m thinking it’s about time to augment my 3” medium-frame carry guns with a true small-frame 2” snub that can be carried in a pocket holster ...." - I believe a few points are important for pocket carry.

    1. It needs to be a DAO gun. Internal hammer or bobbed hammer.
    2. A lightweight frame is desirable.
    3. It doesn't need to be chambered in .357 magnum. It doesn't hurt if it is, but a magnum chambering isn't a requirement.
    4. It should be as "snag free" as possible.

    Under the umbrella of current production guns and blue jean pocket capable; we have the various S&W DAO J-frames and the Ruger LCR that fit the above criteria.

    If we add some wardrobe choices and older guns, the options open up even more.

    A few features are deal breakers. A 3" barreled DA revolver is NOT a pocket gun. So if pocket carry is in the cards, 3" barrels are out.
    Steel framed guns can be pocket guns but they would not be my first choice.

    You can select a mode of carry and find a gun that fits that mode of carry.
    OR
    You can find a gun and select a mode of carry that works with that gun.

    The choice is yours but you can't ride two horses at one time. You must pick one.

  11. #51
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    Sorry, forgot to mention I don't pocket carry. It would go in a pancake or IWB holster. And, yes, 3" is not really a snubby.

    And, yes, I have fired a .357Mag LCR. While a bit stiff it was not uncomfortable in small doses. I'd practice with lighter loads and keep the full power stuff for 'field' use.

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  12. #52
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    I found one of these a few years ago in a LGS and just love it as a back pocket pistol https://pkfirearms.com/smith-wesson-...l-p-sku-170347 I did swap out the grips I carry it a lot more then my SP101 but I pocket carry it if on my belt its the Ruger with a 3" barrel
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  13. #53
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    I carry a pocket gun every day, but I don’t mind the weight of an all steel revolver. I also don’t like the factory grips, so it wears Pachmyer compacs. I dress like Emmitt Kelly so the slight increase in size also doesn’t bother me. So it’s an old S&W 640 in .38 spl.
    Last edited by johniv; 04-12-2021 at 06:42 PM.

  14. #54
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    I carry either my mdl. 36 or 642. They work fine for me.
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  15. #55
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    The old S&W 640 no dash model from 1989-1996; had a 1 7/8" barrel and was chambered in 38 Special. The 640-1 came out in 1996 and was chambered in 357 Mag. The 640-1 had a 2 1/8" barrel.
    Personally, I think the old "no dash" 640 models are the best of the stainless steel Centennial models. They are basically stainless versions of the the old blued model 40 without the grip safety.

    The factory grips often leave a bit to be desired. Some version of the "Boot Grip" style grip will greatly improve the handling of a J-frame without adding to the overall size of the gun. The Pachmayr compacs are also a good choice for concealment. They are a tad bit fatter than factory grips, but they don't add much length. Some people find the Pachmayr grips better than the Boot Grips. I think they are both good choices -pick what works for you.

  16. #56
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    I carry either my SP101 .357 or my Taurus 605 .357 as backups in my pocket, but have to admit I prefer the Ruger and trust it more, even if it is slightly heavier. Thanks for all the great info in this thread everyone!
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  17. #57
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    I carry my S&W 637 alot. It has a Pachmayr Compac Pro grip and the front sight is painted white.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  18. #58
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    Lots of talk about front sights and I think that's a good thing.
    The front sight on any handgun is an important part of accurate shooting but there's a compromise between speed and accuracy.

    A sharply undercut, flat black front sight is great for target shooting but would be horrible for drawing from concealment. A ramped front sight is far more appropriate for combat use but it can be a bit less precise. (although probably more than good enough for close combat)

    Because getting the gun into play from a concealed position is critical, most combat type sights are designed to be as "snag resistant" as possible. Visibility of the front sight is the next issue.
    A flat black front sight provides excellent visibility in good lighting conditions but it loses all of that advantage in poor lighting.
    A brightly colored front sight is somewhat better in low light but is harder to see in bright light.
    Night sights are an excellent compromise but not always an option on every gun.
    Several contributors to this thread have reported using laser sights. That's another option.
    It's a bit old school, but I've seen revolvers with a brass or gold bead inset into the top of a ramp sight. The ramp was flat black and the rear of the bead was polished. That was a pretty good compromise for bright or low light situations.

    Many of the old designs of snubnose revolvers utilize a ramped front sight that is integral to the barrel. They are not likely to snag on clothing or gear and they are certainly tough; but they are not real conducive to the installation of night sights (although it can be done with some machining work).
    Some of the newer snubnose revolvers come equipped with better sights or at least user replaceable sights.

    Pick what works for you.

  19. #59
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    The hammerless S&W 642 is difficult to shoot well if your individual revolver has a heavy trigger. An easier to shoot alternative is the S&W with a shrouded hammer (Bodyguard?) whose hammer can be cocked for single action shooting.
    Last edited by Norske; 04-11-2021 at 09:07 PM.

  20. #60
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    For iwb owb at the 2 to 4 o'clock position I don't find a 3" or 4" barrel that much different to carry than a 2" .
    For OWB a high rise pancake , for IWB a holster styled like a milt sparks summer special are comfortable for me with 4.2" sp101s. But if you at least want the option of pocket carry the long ones don't work.
    I wish I liked pocket carry but I like sitting and I can't get them out unless standing without a lot of grunting and groaning and wrestling around

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