Great to hear we have another member going to the dark side...LOLOriginally Posted by chutesnreloads
BTW, eradicating pests on my property will make range almost a non issue. I have a rangefinder and will know the range to any spot accurately enough by using a cheat sheet. But using pellets, I need to read the wind better than I can now. You will have an advantage using slugs.
Looking forward to your report!
Don Verna
Word of advice on that Umarex then, as any other of these guns...
Clean the barrel. Just trust me on this, clean the barrel. Use a jag and patches. YES, it does improve accuracy.
Also be aware that the more power you wring out of it, the more dirt will be deposited in the barrel. Ie; repeat as needed.
In turn.
Many of these guns have scope rails that are a joke. Make very sure your scope is installed in a stand fast manner. More common than you´d think this is off... and then ppl complain about lack of accuracy.
I for one got around to fabricating a shroud for the BT-65. Dimension sensitive to say the least. Settled on a 20mm*1mm tube, and seeing the barrel is 15mm diameter it doesn´t really leave all that much volume to play with.
Out back i just turned a bushing out of some POM i had laying around, and up front i fabbed a more elaborate "elongator" piece with holes drilled for gas pressure to travel down the shroud.
Ended up shoving a piece of rag in there as well, and at the utmost rear 3pcs of 1,5mm holes to act as pressure escape.
Works.
What can i say?
I for one would like to see a more detailed view of your " fabricated shroud for the BT-65". Should be adaptable to other guns as well.
Yes, Cleaned the barrel before firing a single pellet. Amazing the amount of crud in a new barrel.
After a full day with the Origin I can only say WOW! Really didn't know what I was missing out on. 1st of all the POWER. Expected some more
power than I was getting from my springers but not this much. The added velocity alone reveals a lot of why I had trouble with decent accuracy out to 50 yards. I never moved the target closer than 50 yards until I'd decided on which pellet I wanted to keep it zeroed for and at what distance.
Maybe I got lucky and received an extra powerful gun or maybe my chronograph is reading too high. If it is reading that high, I will be VERY disappointed on the power of my "magnum" springers. I'm doubting the chrony being wrong because its reading pretty much in the ball park
with my older chrony that had to be replaced and the velocities from the springers and multi pump are consistent with what I'd expect.
Had some expectations from watching a few videos and reading many posts but this thing exceeds my expectations. For example,
My slugs are shooting over 100 fps than the fastest slugs I saw on a video and my slugs are heavier than those.
Even with the hammer spring backed off 4 turns I'm recording higher velocities than I've seen reported. Want to do more testing to see how far I can back it off and keep good accuracy. Right now at 4 turns from full power, the Crosman Premiers are getting amazing groups....At 50 yards.
The trigger.... Make no mistake, I'm not calling it a great trigger....but compared to my other air rifle triggers.....WOW. Doubt I'll feel a need to adjust it from the factory settings. Only one close is my '70s vintage Benjamin but Lord knows how many pellets break in time it's had and when it was new, I was too young and ignorant to know what a good trigger was.
Last I will comment on how loud it is. With the hammer spring all the way in at full power is is pretty loud. Too loud even for my back yard, However, backed off 2 or more turns
It's surprisingly quiet. So quiet I thought there was some malfunction at first. But no, the chrony recorded the velocities and the groups on paper don't lie. There are mods that can be done to quiet it more but don't see a need for it.
I'll start a new thread to continue evaluating as I go. May as well add what I've learned with my springers and multi pump guns
Great write up. Looking forward to your thread on the Origin.
I have read a few reviews and it looks like a very good gun for the money. But it is always better to get a review form a user who had to pay their hard earned $$$ to get one.
Like you, I have been astounded by the performance of the cheap Crosman pellets in both my rifles. I need to spend over twice as much for premium pellets that are any better...I am shooting Crosman pellets for both plinking and hunting up to 50 yards. In the spring, I am going to do some 100 yards shooting for ****s and giggles.
Welcome to the Dark Side...LOL
Don Verna
I'm thrilled to finally have a gun that does shoot the Crosmans well. Will be taking my time writing up a review. One the things I detest when trying to do research for a purchase is weeding out worthless reviews. In particular these rave reviews how great such and such is and they only had the product less than 3 days. I've already found a lot to like,... time will tell how much and what the downsides are.
Will do asap.
Right now down with the flu though so expect it to take a few days. I´ll be happy to pick it apart and snap a few shots. Tube in case btw is part of a microphone standthat i cut down!
On pellets then.
Pellets work great for what they´re intended for. Ie; target work.
Slugs however is a completely different animal and if we´re talking disposing of rodents and pests no doubt the way to go.
These hollowpoints break up like there´s no tomorrow, and what´s more handed what they crave from the gun are accurate as hell WELL beyond what a pellet will ever do as ranges open up.
Point being that albeit you´re getting rid of rats it´s still life.. why i for one at least think that it should be disposed of in a as humane manner possible.
In 25 cal at around 1000fps+ i´ve taken a few headshots with H&N Grizzlys as well as JSB so called knockouts. Simple truth is that there´s no head left.
Lights out, there and then. Just remember to keep it at sub sonic levels, as it becomes way way way more simple to keep the report down.
In turn. With a little time invested vs a chronograph the accuracy obtainable is such that you can nail a friggin mouse on the run @30 yards with ease.
The PCP guns, when with a decent barrel, are friggin laser beams IME.
Being capable of shooting slugs accurately was one of the two main deciding factors on getting the Origin. Got a tin of 23 grain H&N slugs when I got the rifle. Truthfully I've only shot a 3 shot group at 50 yards with them so far. They look promising and unquestionably have a considerably
flatter trajectory than either of the 20+ grain pellets I tried. Having said that, the rifle will still be primarily a back yard shooter with 30 yards about the max range. Squirrels are the primary targets and I like that pellets usually do not exit the animal and when they do are moving too slow to cause any damage. My next project will be seeing how much I can dial back the power. Really don't need more than 600-700 fps to get the job done. Right now, If I can dial it back that much, can only guess how many shots can be had from a fill. That will equal more fun shooting. What I need now is more trigger time to figure all this out
On request then.
First up tho..
On the quest for greater power most newcomers fiddle around with the hammer spring. These are almost always single spring setups, leading us to that many yank down on them so they approach coil bind.
This has a plethora of negatives, making the gun ways harder to cock just being one of them.
Better then to spend the time needed figuring out a dual spring setup. This will hand a way different progression, of which most are good. My gun for instance is rather simple to cock and still hits the hammer with authority.
A very simple (and it shows) and dirty "converter" out of regular aluminium. 1/2" UNF at both ends. One male and one female. Middle section, so to say, made to fit a piece of 20mm tubing WITH an o-ring shoved in there for good measure.
Ditto for the other end of the tube. This is an offset setup in the end right, and while the barrel is of 15mm diameter that tube is 20*1 leaving us with a mere 18mm inside diameter = 1,5mm on each "side". Not enough for a shroud to work well.
So albeit it might look a little unorthodox it makes for a world of difference. Them short pieces of 20mm tubing basically just being short stumps to make the 28mm tube fit off center.
One thing i´m going to change is the rear seal. As much as it works, i guess, it still is a slip fit and i´d like an o-ring on that end too to be able to control "exhaust".
Racing, you do some amazing stuff.
Thanks for sharing your work. I for one do not have the talent to do what you can do, but I enjoy learning.
Don Verna
Thank you, and all to happy to.
Very long story...
At the shop of mine we´ve got an old homeless man that we´ve taken under our wings. He´s very aware that we shoot, and hunt, many of us and have taken an interest in it.
Thus often tags along for the range and what not.
Now. We ended up getting rats at the place, reasons for this are plentyfold, and this of course needs to be kept under control. So shooting pests has become sorts of a sport, and we indeed have shot many - seeing the rather limited area.
Now. Thus far i´ve lent Fredrik an old springer of mine, an early Mauser 300B, but that´s a 177cal gun so weak that it won´t really amount to c*ap as far as doing away with the rodents in case.
So. Browsing our "Craigs" i saw an add for an el-cheapo 22cal Artemis PR900W. If anything as entry level as they come..
22cal, good for me as that brings i get to keep my 25cal stuff to myself!LOL
That said, it´s about christmas and.. yeah well. Seeing this thing was dirt cheap it makes for a perfect gift.
So went and picked it up. Complete with this generic "4*20" plastic *** scope. That was the first thing to go into the bin!
Ditto, as a wooden stock gun that there is just TO generic, TO boring. So.. will adress that by sanding it down and throwing some dye at it.
In turn, mods. Of course.
As always the adjustability of a PCP is imperative, and the basic idea here is for a 40-50J gun that he can use for the intended task at hand.
Now. In contrast to most these days these guns do NOT sport a 1/2"UNF thread up front. In fact in OEM form there´s a sorts of barrel weight with an added front sight, or whatever you wanna call it.
Barrel has been turned down to take that weight, and this to the tune of 10.00mm flat. So i turned an adapter, or whatever you wanna call it, to press fit dimensions.
Presto.. 1/2" UNF.. and you know what that brings
With a moderator added out front.. D*MN this thing got quiet!
True. Not exactly the powerhouse the Impact of mine is but still...
As i had it apart i enlarged a few ports, the transfer port included, and where we started out at approx 360fps for the approx 26grain JSB´s.. with a few holes handled we were at least at 700fps.
No.
This one is not going to see a reg. No point.
These guns are SO basic there´s not even a hammer spring adjuster. Took to checking that out, and the design is such that the setup is about maxed out as is.
Now.
Thing here is, Fredrik has lived a rather hard life and now at age 65 joints as well as muscles are getting the better of him. This brings two "musts".
First up the little carbine must be light (read - in weight) and indeed this little thing is. To the point where.. no worries on that one.
Second up loading the thing must be easy, why hard hammer springs et al is plain out. He´s to be able to cock the thing after all.
Uhu. Very very simple to the build, but truth be told it´s all there.. and works as intended. Yet another "project gun"?
Nah. Not really. This one´ll be simple to put to point.
It WOULD be nice to hotrod the trigger setup for adjustability though. The scope i put on there btw is the one that came with the Hatsan BT-65. Works as well as anything for that small gun i guess.
Going to adress the barrel tomorrow. Hand it a decent crown and polish the chamber as well as throat. Both the "chamber"/cone and the crown are a damn joke! Then.. these have a rep for busting up the o-rings for the actual valve within the air tank.
The tank in itself is rather small at approx 100cc and the valve is an integral part of it. O-rings.. simple enough to replace, but i want to get the valve out of there to inspect, and adjust as needed, seeing the intended power goal here.
So?
in short yet another el-cheapo PCP gun that can sure be set to handle proper tasks at and around the house. Noise of it brought down.. noone´s gonna care that you use it as you see fit (within common sense of course).
In turn as i´ve got the barrel out come tomorrow i´ll also check and inspect barrel choke. As we´re aware.. slugs is the way to go when pesting and most of these guns are setup for pellets.. which is a no-good in that case.
Need be i´ll just dress that on the lathe too.
But general point here being that a nice, and well shooting, PCP gun can very WELL be an entry level such.. as long as you´re clued in and aware what you´re doing.
In all honesty 700fps is just about enough, to make them hollow points open up on impact, but.. rather safe than sorry why 800fps will simply feel better.
Might be they´re "just rats". I don´t care, if we´re to do away with them ethics comes No1..
Last edited by Racing; 12-21-2021 at 09:11 PM.
On the same topic then..
Trigger isn´t really adjustable per se and i felt that the first stage was on the stiff side... Now, the trigger assy is simple enough so no harm no foul really. The sear, in picture, is what´s the heart of it all, of course.
Just replaced the stock spring with a way leaner one and presto..
The trigger blade in itself in turn sports a small allen grub screw to set creep, i guess. Thing is that it can be adjusted "both ways" so to say. Not necessarily just inwards as the trigger blade extends vs the sear in the manner it does.
Long story short tho, with a tad of effort a WAY more usable trigger. Two stage and with a now rather crisp break.
In all honesty both the chamber and crown was cut beyond critisism in my book. TALK about a hack job! Well.. this is where a lathe comes in handy i guess, and the difference at both ends is nothing short of profound.
Speaking of the chamber side... These guns have a rep of sporting a pellet probe that is on the short end, rendering that the skirt of the pellet kind of semi covers up the transfer port. Checked this gun today, and indeed..
With slugs however the dish at the rear of the bullet is way less why the slug seats the bit further in needed. Something to keep in mind i guess..
Here then the valve. Had heard horror stories of how hard these parts were to get out of the tube, no such thing in this case. Ramming the valve and the "separator" out of the tube was childs play.
Port of the valve i opened up to 5,5mm flat and in turn fabbed a fresh valve in itself. The stock thing being a brass unit that seals vs the aluminium housing which i did away with and used delrin instead.
Going to readress that even further i believe.
Here in the order/manner to be installed into the tank/tube.
Yeah well, i´ll push forward then i guess.
Made a new valve pin and seal out of steel and delrin. Not the wisest of moves as it turns out at albeit the seal was of course installed pressure fit it simply wasn´t enough rendering the seal to "float" on the spindle.
C*ap in short.
So next attempt was out of hardened steel and brass. A bearing bronze actually, called JM over here. Stock the Artemis uses a brass seal too.
That said these guns lack a seal between the spindle and the housing why i thought it´d be a good idea to add an o-ring.
..put the housing on the lathe and countersunk that hole.. adding a press fit "washer" to keep the thing in place.
Well, had to make that bronze seal do exactly that.. seal. So, valve grinding compound it is. Works wonders.
So yeah. High performance valve for an Artemis, certainly is! Due time restraints i just got to fire two shots last night before leaving and it looks very very promising. (Inxs of 900fps right off the bat - no tuning what so ever, with 25cal Knock out slugs)
Will look into further mods tho..
Uhu. If ever i guess. One "drawback" to this gun is the very very limited tank volume. A mere 100cc´s. Tank is out of steel making that.. increasing that would be rather simple i guess.?
We´ll see where that touches down but any and all idea of a reg is certainly out. This will be a "on the pressure knee" gun.
Yep. In cleaned up mode. This i can´t recommend enough. The use of a 1/2"UNF up front and thus the ability to add a can makes for all the difference IMO.
ESPECIALLY so as power level goes up
Very interesting project. Makes me want to do more tinkering although I'm no where near your class of tinkerer.
I want to thank you for the warning of slugs fouling the bore of my Origin. Just a few shots is all it takes for substantial
fouling. They shoot rather well from a clean bore however.
Merry Christmas everyone!
Merry Christmas!
Well.
To make that o-ring setup for the valve pin seal..i kind of went nuts with it. So turned an entire "plate" to be bolted to the main body, this plate that sporting a "press fit" center kind of deal of approx 7/10mm..
O-ring in case a 3mm*2mm. Ie; 7mm outer. That valve pin spindle being 2,90mm approx... that no good. So what i did was turn the recess for the o-ring in the valve body slightly undersize at 6,7mm. Yep. You guessed it.. juuuuust the right slip fit for the spindle.
All good in short.
Then the other end of this thing. Now...
The inlet port is a mere 5mm stock. In turn there´s a plastic "guide" mounted to the end of the valve pin of 6mm diameter and i GUESS the idea here is to have that plastic doo-daa come up against the inlet port and at least.. shy it off.
Well.
Turned the inlet a true 6mm but seeing that, the dimensions of that "plug" is just silly why i´ll cut it severly come tomorrow. Idea being one of more ample volume for the actual valve to "breathe" from.
in turn.. that 6mm hole, as i turn the innards of that plug (again..dimensions are just daft) i´ll most likely drill more inlet holes as well. If nothing else for the difference in reaction time it might bring.
That said.
This thing is driving me effin nuts. Now. Those of you in the loop.. get this. So the actual valve i turn from an old "bit" (in fact an E12 such for a 3/8" setup). In short, hardened steel - which i guess is all good.
Stock these things indeed use a brass sort of valve seat installed to the original valve pin. So.. at first i did too, just out of POM (plastic) and at that with a rather severe press fit.
Well.
No can do. 2 or 3 shots and the d*mn thing had moved on the spindle, which certainly is a nocando.
So.. fabbed one out of bearing bronze. Same deal after a few shots so.. i said to h*ll with it and did the exact same thing just with a 12/100mm press fit vs the valve pin. 12/100mm... now that´s a c*ap load, and then some.
I dunno what it is, if it´s the increased performance out of it but i´ll be dipped...you guessed it.
With a press fit of 12/100mm the THING STILL MOVES ON THE SPINDLE!!!! SAY WUUUUUT?!?
Only one conclusion. The setup of a brass seat vs the aluminium body (albeit anodized) simply isn´t cut for what i´m asking so what i´ll do is weld that valve pin up with some 306 with the TIG and turn that to a 45deg seat.
Then i guess i´ll bring an end mill out and chuck into the lathe and from thereon out just turn a PROPER valve seat out of delrin. Enough of this. Time to set this up per norms that we KNOW to work!
I´ve spent hrs at END trying to make this P*S idea of the chinese work. NO MORE, now we´re reverting to what we KNOW works.
I can appreciate that the original setup is cheap to fab n manufacture but gimme a break already!
So. With the chance of throwing a fit and lose it entirely... Enough. D*MN this thing has been close to drive me up the proverbial wall! I´m not lying if i state that i´ve had that pressure tank incl the fitting put together and taken apart like 15 times today!
ENOUGH!
The P*S chinese solution is simply OUT as power goes up for real. Period.
That being said i at least got to try a few shots vs the LabRadar of mine and this thing shows promise! Now please keep in mind that rather limited barrel length AND our intended performance goals.
Thing is, sans one yota of tuning.. we´ve already exceeded that. 950fps without even turning a screw as far as tuning. Yep.. jumped through the entire shortbus, out the other side and went DIRECTLY to lickin that pole...In short i guess the next task will be to make it "fuel efficient".
Last edited by Racing; 12-25-2021 at 09:04 PM.
bought everything I would need to shoot in my back yard with my son 4 PCP rifles tank compressor you name it and I bought it He passed away a year ago of a heart attack everything just sits now I will give it all to my grandson
Sorry for your loss. Shoot with your grandson if you can. It will be good for both of you.
Don Verna
Sorry for your loss.
Can´t but agree. Grab your grandson if and when you can.
Right.
So. Progress.
Sry. No fresh pic. What i ended up doing was tossing the stock solution/setup in the bin. The actual valve pin on these guns (It´s the same gun as the Diana Stormrider btw) isn´t overly large in any manner, so we´re good as far as that.
However.
As performance came to climb i came into trouble, and i went total full retard on it. So what i did was turn YET another valve pin, of stock dimensions apart from ONE.
I made the actual seat part 8,2mm diameter vs the stock thing 6,5mm. Read on....
Seeing that the valve "seal" was basically flopping around to hearts content as power increased.. enough already. Thus a solid valvepin out of hardened steel, but that also brought that i now needed a WAY more pliable actual seat on the valve body.
So.
Chucked the valve housing into the lathe, took out a 12mm end mill bit and fired away. Getting the thing to seal, seeing the pressures involved, is another matter.
I turned a separate valve seat out of POM/acetal plastic, and this with a pressure fit of 3/10 of a millimeter! Thus i turned a mandrel out of aluminium to be able to set the thing, so.. the seat in there, the mandrel in place and let the large vice at the shop of mine rip.
Indeed. New seat in place, and let me tell you.. it ain´t going ANYWHERE soon.
Now. To make fit follow form i again tossed that valve body onto the lathe and started to cut a 45deg angle to the seat. Checking my work as i went, knowing that the dimensions of the fresh valve pin was on par.
Indeed.
Soon enough we were good to go, and the actual hole in the seat had now grown from the stock approx 3,5mm to 6,5mm. That´s a rather massive increase in area, and thus flow capacity.
I assembled the valve, this time with a WAY softer "return" spring... no need for overly forces on that behalf as the pressures involved will make the thing seal no matter.
So.
At this point, golden. Into the tank the valve went, the "spacer" part with the pressure gauge outlet close after it. Then to shut the thing with the threaded end bit.
Mind you.
The "lid" for the valve, tossed that on the lathe too and both cut out the inner diameter of it as much as faith would have me, and in turn cutting off approx half of the threads of it.
Ie; a way more roomy such "space" before the valve.
At this point in turn i assembled the thing as noted and pressurised it. Yep. We were solid. Now with WAY larger openings, seeing the idea at hand here.
Cool enough.
So back together the receiver and barrel went, and onto the tank.. hammer installed and what not. Tho.. all i had at hand was a very very meek hammer spring setup but reasoned as such that it´d be enough to get me going at least.
Sure enough.
Back into the stock with the whole schabang and fired the LabRadar up. First go, 5 shots, told 910fps. Without touching a screw basically and with that VERY meek hammer spring setup.
Have already figured out a more "vivid" such and will install tomorrow.
Where we´re at the valve pin protrudes like 4mm atop the valve housing and to be honest i have no idea if that´s much or not but guess we´ll get at least part of the answer tomorrow as the fresh hammer spring setup is installed.
Wouldn´t be surprised if i get around 1000fps muzzle velocity.
Power though is nothing without control. As you´re very well aware slugs is where it´s at for me and most PCP (most airguns really - period) use choked barrels. This choking action is a good thing for pellets, many a times being "massive" as you check it out.
Put the barrel on a vice and shoved a couple of pellets and slugs both through there. Yes. Choked barrel, but not as massively so as on the Hatsan for instance. However.. stretched over a longer length of the barrel. I´d say like 20mm or so this time out (in contrast to the Lothar Walter barrel on the BT approx 10mm).
Knowing this then i sat down to fire the thing, with slugs. In doors though due the cold at the moment, which limits the thing to approx 20m within the shop.
As it turns out if i just did my part the thing will stack slugs at that range. Hm. Now, granted. 20 meters tells very little and i expect that to be of another level as ranges open up.
If and when so.. i´ll adress that choking action but for now.. that suffices and then some. Truly, in my book it really does.
In short we were at a point where this by now rather modified older series Artemis gun was performing like there´s no tomorrow.
Good times!
Performance goal then? Well. Already at 910 we´re into the 60 Joule range which is more then enough to cater to pest control. However..
From previous experience i´m all to well aware that them hollow points likes speed to open up to the best of their ability, and 1000fps is a very round n nice number.
That would OTOH with them shy of 26 grain JSB knock out slugs render approx 75 Joules which is WAY overkill for the intended task but.. know what?
Rather that than the opposite.
Then.
That "plastic" feel of the OEM stock just got to me. So out the sander came shod with 120 grit. Lo n behold. What WERE the folks at Artemis thinking?!
Beech wood.. and filled to the brim with plastic grain filler. Just LOOK what was underneath!
Uhu. Dyed with a tad of "dark oak" coupled with a few layers of "mahogony". Going to add a tad more of the latter, like that almost maroon feel it hands.
Here in different lighting. Yep. Layer upon layer of linseed/turpentine will now be added, until that piece of beech wood says "no more".
Being wet sanded, with the linseed, in between here and there. 400 grit for starters, 800 as we go..
REAL happy with this!
A entirely different gun came out the other end!
So. If i reach upon them 1000fps tomorrow, is that it?
No. As i do i´ll start something WAY harder and that´s to make the thing "fuel efficient". Ie; keep the approx 1000fps but at as a low amount of air digested i can get away with.
This el-cheapo lacks any and all hammer bounce control. Hatsan sports a very simple yet effective solution as far as that in as much of a sort of "cradled" and spring loaded piece of steel that "falls down" as the hammer comes rushing in such a manner it´ll stop the hammer from going backwards by any appreciable amount AFTER the shot has been fired.
In turn, going to fool around a bit with an o-ring installed to the part of the valve pin protruding from the valve housing. The part of the valve pin that the hammer smacks.
Reasoning as such that an o-ring of correct dimensions will "soft stop" the hammers interia... well. We´ll see.
For the day though, REAL happy with the outcome.
Last edited by Racing; 12-27-2021 at 10:30 PM.
Ironed out some valve issues today.
Increased the pin protrude. Measured 3,5mm came to set it at 5,5mm. VAST difference in behavior and performance.
But.. feels like it´s not 100 consistent.
LabRadar doesn´t lie though.. got to believe the numbers i guess.
Came to reinstall the barrel band. Just, with that added press on fitting for the 1/2"UNF up front it sure didn´t fit as was anymore. So cut the absolute top off of it, leaving like two "claws". One on each side, and these grip the barrel just fine as you torq down on the small screw in the middle of the band.
As to if that barrel band will stay though, accuracy tests will tell.
Installed the more "narly" hammer spring setup. Yep. Did what was asked, no doubt. Sure gulps "fuel" though, and need to look into that.
Ditto, spent a little more time on the trigger and it annoys me that as i diminish creep i basically lose 1st stage. Will have to check into that.. i happen to like coming up on a distinct pressure point.
Stock has now seen the first oil sanding. Think it comes out rather well, and CERTAINLY a ton better than was!
In turn. As this IS and will REMAIN a budget gun and that scope that was on there turned out to be trash (parallax adjustment dead) i instead opted for an older Tasco 6-24*40.
Looks the bill too i´d say.
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