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Thread: Fluxing - head spinning

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Cast10's Avatar
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    Fluxing - head spinning

    Wow! Tons of good info and I”ve been sifting thru it all! LOL.

    My first melt (smelt) is complete and I’m fixing to begin my test casts. That said, I”ll share what my first experience smelting (melting).

    All SOWW and were very dirty. I’ll cut it short. Had about 40 lbs in a Dutch oven and once all lead was liquidus (ah, another big word), I added a healthy cap of fresh sawdust from a local shop. I allowed it to ‘blacken’ and I begin working it into the mix and stirring. The dross/dirt, etc. began floating and I was scooping it out on the reg. I only added flux (sawdust) twice during this melt and low and behold it all yielded nice ingots! Thanks to all for the great sticky about FLUXING.

    As I begin casting, I’ll only use beeswax pastilles to reduce. I have a bottom pour. Thanks again to all!

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    I usually don't even wait for it to char - the volatiles in the wood work as flux also

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    When I am fluxing COWW that I am smelting (usually a 40 lb pot full), I use a couple handfulls of sawdust (about a 1 inch layer). I add it before I remove the clips. Then I stir the saw dust and clips. The clips are then removed and there is NO lead alloy stuck to the clips (there would be, if I didn't flux with sawdust). Then I flux with a couple handfulls of saw dust again, stir and remove the lightweight black char.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    The very first thing to do is to step back, take a deep breath and calm down. Then proceed to do what WORKS for YOU.
    If what you are doing works for you then do it. If you are now overthinking fluxing you will be on the road to more turmoil as you proceed.
    I am not trying to be mean, condecending or uncaring like some have accused me of being but just trying to be honest and straightforward in this. Bullet casting isn't hard to do. Even to get high quality bullets isnt hard to do. You will run into problems along the way but most are easy worked out.

  5. #5
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    I've found that when fluxing. using both pine sawdust AND wax works better than using just one or the other alone.

    When smelting COWW or range scrap the metal is much cleaner when I also use wax to flux.

    When I use only sawdust I end up with large granules on top, adding wax will reduce the granules down to fine sand.












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    Just stirring it with a dry stick works better to get down under the surface, where you need it.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  7. #7
    Boolit Master Cast10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pastera View Post
    I usually don't even wait for it to char - the volatiles in the wood work as flux also
    I’ll remember this and give it a try. I let it blacken for the most part.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Cast10's Avatar
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    Well said! Thanks for that 44mag! I will remember this for sure! It all seemed to work out, but the little tips always help make it easier.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Cast10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conditor22 View Post
    I've found that when fluxing. using both pine sawdust AND wax works better than using just one or the other alone.

    When smelting COWW or range scrap the metal is much cleaner when I also use wax to flux.

    When I use only sawdust I end up with large granules on top, adding wax will reduce the granules down to fine sand.











    I saw what you mean. I took another spoon and got off what I could. I’ll remember; sawdust then finish with wax!

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Cast10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    Just stirring it with a dry stick works better to get down under the surface, where you need it.
    I actually forgot to use my wood sticks. I had a handful of paint stirring sticks and forgot to use them!!!!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cast10 View Post
    Wow! Tons of good info and I”ve been sifting thru it all! LOL.

    My first melt (smelt) is complete and I’m fixing to begin my test casts. That said, I”ll share what my first experience smelting (melting).

    All SOWW and were very dirty. I’ll cut it short. Had about 40 lbs in a Dutch oven and once all lead was liquidus (ah, another big word), I added a healthy cap of fresh sawdust from a local shop. I allowed it to ‘blacken’ and I begin working it into the mix and stirring. The dross/dirt, etc. began floating and I was scooping it out on the reg. I only added flux (sawdust) twice during this melt and low and behold it all yielded nice ingots! Thanks to all for the great sticky about FLUXING.

    As I begin casting, I’ll only use beeswax pastilles to reduce. I have a bottom pour. Thanks again to all!
    You learned well . flux with sawdust / pencil sharpener shavings and another flux with beeswx covers all the bases .
    Just because I have it ... I do a third ( small amount ) flux with Marvelux ...probably not really necessary but when I was learning ... "Ingot to Target " Glen Fryexell said to use it so I bought a big jar ... it works but works better along with with wood shavings and beeswax fluxing .
    Stir things with a little wood paddle stir stick ...it adds some carbon and good stirring is the secrete to good fluxing . Stir the wood shavings / sawdust into the melt there are things in wood besides the carbon and it helps speed the process . I find several Small fluxings , stirred in well , better than a big pile of sawdust . But do what feels right for you ... no right no wrong ... just develop your own technique .
    Keep On Keepin On
    Gary
    Last edited by gwpercle; 04-02-2021 at 05:16 PM.
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    I don’t put as much effort or propane into melting to make ingots as I used to. I only use sawdust now and save the bee’s wax for the casting pot after a good fluxing of sawdust.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master

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    It sounds like you have it figured out. Good job!

    I flux with sawdust a few times when smelting and use a wax type substance in my casting pot.

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    I use sawdust and paraffin wax when smelting, and beeswax only in the casting pot.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master Cast10's Avatar
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    All good comments. Thank you all. I’m taking notes!

  16. #16
    Boolit Bub
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    I’m following as a casting nubie, and have a question. Does it matter what kind of sawdust? Or can I just empty my chopsaw and use it?

  17. #17
    Boolit Master BNE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capt Keith View Post
    I’m following as a casting nubie, and have a question. Does it matter what kind of sawdust? Or can I just empty my chopsaw and use it?
    Fluxing is one of those topics that brings out a ton of opinions and usually starts an argument!

    I say the stuff from your chop saw will work fine. Try it. (That’s what I do.)
    I'm a Happy Clinger.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cast10 View Post
    I actually forgot to use my wood sticks. I had a handful of paint stirring sticks and forgot to use them!!!!
    I'm even more frugal (sounds so much better than cheap) than that. I use sticks I pick up from the trees in the yard.

    Works well and accomplishes two things at once.

    Robert

  19. #19
    Boolit Master Cast10's Avatar
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    I visited a local shop that builds portable buildings. They have a bag collection system and use lots of Pine and Whitewood and plywood. I didn’t visit the bag system on the table saws! I was welcomed to dig in and I did. All good and dry too!

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    When you get to casting, save the dross you pull from the lead you just made...it's obviously pretty clean so the dross is oxidized tin & antimony & traces of other stuff.
    I use wax in the pour pot to stir the oxidized metals back as best I can, then pull the dross, drop it in a coffee can or appropriate container and then re-seal the surface with another generous button of wax. That'll seal the pot surface from oxidation as you cast, it forms a nice carbon black crust in the pot on the surface of the melt.

    Don't be dropping your sprues in the pot as you cast or it'll break your carbon seal and the melt will oxidize much quicker. Save them till your ready for a break and refill of the pot.

    After enough casting you'll accumulate a lot of dross, tin & antimony rich dross...



    When you make another ingot pot of lead, put the bucket of dross in with the lead your processing, you will be amazed at how much of the pour pot dross you reclaim & it'll sweeten the tin percentage a bit also.
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