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Thread: Al welding rod

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master


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    I am no welder, but TIG set on AC (other settings I usually set to book recommendation) is the only way I can weld aluminum. It is the easiest method I know of, although much harder than any method of welding steel. The goofy part of welding is that aluminum doesn't quite want to puddle like steel does, so you have to really watch it, as it can go from nothing, to burned through in no time.

    The methods talked about in this thread, and that video are brazing. The difference is you are not melting any of the metal on the part, only the filler. It is heavy duty soldering in essence. All you need is hardware store MAPP gas and a brazing rod. You can do it with propane, but MAPP is hotter and easier.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    weld aluminum with a stick welder A fun project in HS auto shop class. Learned to NOT do it! You can scrape a spark but leaves a nasty. I got the grade by just spotting enough to hold the parts together.
    Whatever!

  3. #23
    Boolit Master elmacgyver0's Avatar
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    An Eastwood TIG 200 AC/DC welder works like a dream on aluminum.
    I only tried it twice, no practice and both welds held up and still going strong.
    Frankly I didn't think it was going to work, I was surprised.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    I’m a refrigeration mechanic and use aluminum soldering rods a lot for piping, condenser and evaporator repairs. I tried some rods that were suppose to work on such as the OP is trying to do and had mixed results. It worked on
    1/16 aluminum flat bar but couldn’t get a good weld with it on anything thicker.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carrier View Post
    I’m a refrigeration mechanic and use aluminum soldering rods a lot for piping, condenser and evaporator repairs. I tried some rods that were suppose to work on such as the OP is trying to do and had mixed results. It worked on
    1/16 aluminum flat bar but couldn’t get a good weld with it on anything thicker.
    As an old HVAC/R guy can I ask what you are using?

    For aluminum to copper I use the old epoxy. For steel to copper it's silver. Copper to copper is mostly 15%. I do have some of the rod the OP talks about to fix my john boats. I have several pits and a bunch of boats.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim147 View Post
    As an old HVAC/R guy can I ask what you are using?

    For aluminum to copper I use the old epoxy. For steel to copper it's silver. Copper to copper is mostly 15%. I do have some of the rod the OP talks about to fix my john boats. I have several pits and a bunch of boats.
    For aluminum to aluminium or aluminum to copper I use AL802 from Handy&Harman (I think they have updated that number) which has a powder flux inside of the rod. There are several others out there. I can’t remember the other one I have used in a kit form for soldering aluminum condensers and evaporators. It comes with Rod and a separate flux and worked really well on some Thermo King condensers. It is so easy to solder and just use a hand held propane torch but find using mapp gas is quicker especially for larger pipes.
    Just google aluminum solder for HVAC and you will find one.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check