JB Weld epoxy is also good stuff.
For repairs I have used Titebond III and various 2 part 'slow' hardening epoxies with similar results, though Titebond III is easier to use, use the techniques pietro described, but using stretchy surgical/rubber tubing to clamp.
The water proof tight bound is plenty strong. It’s actually stronger than any wood you can use it on. It’s thin so parts go together really good. It dries clear and water clean up. I have tried epoxy’s and find them hard to clamp together and they leave a mess. With tight bound the glued part usally goes together with hardly anything showing where it was cracked.if the part your gluing looks good put together with out glue it will be almost invisible with the glue. I thank it works better. If you have a really bad break with missing wood then epoxy is better. Tight bound is about the only thing I use it’s that good.
Many thanks for all the good advice and encouragement. I ended up using West System G/Flex epoxy, a 1-1 liquid epoxy with 75 minute working time from mix, so had ample time to insure that the clamps were properly engaged and good pressure. (I'm a bit biased towards West System as I've used their products for most of the kayaks I've built.) Many thanks for the reminder of waxing the stock bolt, I may have thought of it, but I suspect with focusing on waxing the receiver it may not have entered my mind. Making custom clamp blocks out of Bondo- never thought of that, but used it on another project in the shop already, very slick!!!! The checkering over the repair cleaned up well enough- not a job I'm altogether happy with, but... you learn.
Attachment 281167
The essence of education is self reliance- T.H. White.
Currently seeking wood carving tools, wood planes, froes, scorps, spokeshaves... etc....
I think your friend will be very happy with the job you’ve done.
It's still available. Look for Weldwood Plastic resin Glue powder. It mixes with water and when dry is waterproof. I bet your local hardware store has some. If not try online. I used to use it to build boats.
https://www.dap.com/products-project...ic-resin-glue/
Last edited by Jim22; 04-14-2021 at 03:21 PM.
Agreed 100%. The real test is if and/win a glued joint fails did the glue fail or did the would next to the joint fail? Past that it's overkill and as stated cleaning the runout can an issue. I have been using West Systems Epoxy as a stock finish for 30 plus years and I love it. If I was doing the repair it would have been Titebond.
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you done good!
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-prod1033.aspx
This and drill holes with stock off gun. brownells acraglas liquid.
I recognize the Weldwood name. Don't remember it having a catalyst. If I were still building RC airplanes I'd run out and buy some.
Cognitive Dissident
I would use CYANO N1, it is cyanoacrylate. Separate the barrels from the action ... glue the broken parts and put the assembly in a vise, separating the shotgun from the jaws with wooden dowels, one on each side.
Once I glue, you have to get a couple of wooden dowels ... you have to poke holes in the stock on the glued broken part. Drill two holes so that the dowels fit snugly ... put carpenter's cement in the dowels and insert them into the holes made in the stock so that the dowels serve as fastening nails for the broken parts.
I hope you understand my english.
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Gral. Don José de San Martin.
Your English is fine. Your technique is also good.
Cognitive Dissident
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |