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Thread: Have to repair a stock, glue up questions.

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    JB Weld epoxy is also good stuff.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    For repairs I have used Titebond III and various 2 part 'slow' hardening epoxies with similar results, though Titebond III is easier to use, use the techniques pietro described, but using stretchy surgical/rubber tubing to clamp.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    The water proof tight bound is plenty strong. It’s actually stronger than any wood you can use it on. It’s thin so parts go together really good. It dries clear and water clean up. I have tried epoxy’s and find them hard to clamp together and they leave a mess. With tight bound the glued part usally goes together with hardly anything showing where it was cracked.if the part your gluing looks good put together with out glue it will be almost invisible with the glue. I thank it works better. If you have a really bad break with missing wood then epoxy is better. Tight bound is about the only thing I use it’s that good.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master beezapilot's Avatar
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    Many thanks for all the good advice and encouragement. I ended up using West System G/Flex epoxy, a 1-1 liquid epoxy with 75 minute working time from mix, so had ample time to insure that the clamps were properly engaged and good pressure. (I'm a bit biased towards West System as I've used their products for most of the kayaks I've built.) Many thanks for the reminder of waxing the stock bolt, I may have thought of it, but I suspect with focusing on waxing the receiver it may not have entered my mind. Making custom clamp blocks out of Bondo- never thought of that, but used it on another project in the shop already, very slick!!!! The checkering over the repair cleaned up well enough- not a job I'm altogether happy with, but... you learn.
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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    If you do use a dye, skip the brown. Go with black. You will thank me later.
    I’ve heard that too.

  6. #26
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    I think your friend will be very happy with the job you’ve done.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master Jim22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uscra112 View Post
    The famous Mosquito was indeed an all-wood airframe. Lockheed pioneered the concept over here, but deHavilland really made it shine.

    Where is that glue still available?
    It's still available. Look for Weldwood Plastic resin Glue powder. It mixes with water and when dry is waterproof. I bet your local hardware store has some. If not try online. I used to use it to build boats.

    https://www.dap.com/products-project...ic-resin-glue/
    Last edited by Jim22; 04-14-2021 at 03:21 PM.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jniedbalski View Post
    The water proof tight bound is plenty strong. It’s actually stronger than any wood you can use it on. It’s thin so parts go together really good. It dries clear and water clean up. I have tried epoxy’s and find them hard to clamp together and they leave a mess. With tight bound the glued part usally goes together with hardly anything showing where it was cracked.if the part your gluing looks good put together with out glue it will be almost invisible with the glue. I thank it works better. If you have a really bad break with missing wood then epoxy is better. Tight bound is about the only thing I use it’s that good.
    Agreed 100%. The real test is if and/win a glued joint fails did the glue fail or did the would next to the joint fail? Past that it's overkill and as stated cleaning the runout can an issue. I have been using West Systems Epoxy as a stock finish for 30 plus years and I love it. If I was doing the repair it would have been Titebond.
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  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    you done good!

  10. #30
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
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    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-prod1033.aspx

    This and drill holes with stock off gun. brownells acraglas liquid.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim22 View Post
    It's still available. Look for Weldwood Plastic resin Glue powder. It mixes with water and when dry is waterproof. I bet your local hardware store has some. If not try online. I used to use it to build boats.
    Is that what was often called “brown glue”?

  12. #32
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    I recognize the Weldwood name. Don't remember it having a catalyst. If I were still building RC airplanes I'd run out and buy some.
    Cognitive Dissident

  13. #33
    Boolit Master Jim22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    Is that what was often called “brown glue”?
    Could be... it does turn out brown. I've never heard that term but it fits.

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy JLF's Avatar
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    I would use CYANO N1, it is cyanoacrylate. Separate the barrels from the action ... glue the broken parts and put the assembly in a vise, separating the shotgun from the jaws with wooden dowels, one on each side.
    Once I glue, you have to get a couple of wooden dowels ... you have to poke holes in the stock on the glued broken part. Drill two holes so that the dowels fit snugly ... put carpenter's cement in the dowels and insert them into the holes made in the stock so that the dowels serve as fastening nails for the broken parts.
    I hope you understand my english.
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  15. #35
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Your English is fine. Your technique is also good.
    Cognitive Dissident

  16. #36
    Boolit Buddy JLF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uscra112 View Post
    Your English is fine. Your technique is also good.
    Very kind of you. Your comment honors me.
    "When the homeland is in danger, everything is allowed, except not to defend it."

    Gral. Don José de San Martin.

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