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Thread: New Guy - First thoughts on boolit alloy - 10mm

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Cast10's Avatar
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    New Guy - First thoughts on boolit alloy - 10mm

    Got my first melting session behind me. Now on to making some boolits.

    Shooting 10mm in Glock 20 stock and a MechTech carbine with a 16” bbl. 1180fps from stock G20 and 1500fps from carbine. These are both used for woods guns on hogs. My present 180gr. XTP bullets do a great job as most shots at night are within 75-100 yds. Mostly DRT.

    Bullet to begin with is a Lee 175gr. - 6 cavity mold.

    My thoughts were to use my recently melted SOWW and mix 50/50 with Hardball. I will powder coat and heat treat so I should start with around BHN 12 and up that.

    Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks again!

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use hardball in my G20. Works great.

    Sent fra min YAL-L21 via Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Banned
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    A rough rule of thumb is 1bhn for every 100 fps velocity

    Your mix is close to COWW and should harden similar to this chart



    With using PC you can use a lower BHN than with lubed boolits.

    My guess is you can get away with shooting them PC'd, unquenched in both guns. IF the rifle doesn't;t like this yu can always put the PC'd boolits back in the oven for 30 minutes and quench them.

    IF you decide to quench, I'd only do it AFTER you PC.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
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    The RCBS 2 lube needs to be washed off after sizing, before bullets go in the oven. Warm water & 2 drops Dawn work well.

    Cast bullets can be heat treated to increase their hardness providing your alloy has 2% or more antimony present. To heat treat your bullets: Cast your bullets in the normal manner, saving several scrap bullets. Size using RCBS 2 Lube. WASH OFF. Place several scrap bullets on a pan in your oven at 450 degrees and increase the temperature until the bullets start to melt or slump. Be sure to use an accurate oven thermometer and a pan that will not be used again for food. Once the bullets start to melt or slump, back off the temperature about 10 degrees and slide in your first batch of good bullets. Leave these in the oven for 1 hour. Remove the bullets from the oven and plunge them into cool water. Allow them to cool thoroughly. When you are ready to lubricate, install a Lyman sizing die .001" larger than the one used to initially size them, OR Tumble lube with Alox. This will prevent the sides of the bullets from work-softening from contact with the sizing die. Next apply gas checks if required and lubricate. BULLETS WILL TAKE 2 WEEKS TO FULLY HARDEN. These are now ready for loading.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Cast10's Avatar
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    Thanks for the chart, great info!
    I was planning on quenching after PC.
    Again, thanks for the help!

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Cast10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 243winxb View Post
    The RCBS 2 lube needs to be washed off after sizing, before bullets go in the oven. Warm water & 2 drops Dawn work well.

    Cast bullets can be heat treated to increase their hardness providing your alloy has 2% or more antimony present. To heat treat your bullets: Cast your bullets in the normal manner, saving several scrap bullets. Size using RCBS 2 Lube. WASH OFF. Place several scrap bullets on a pan in your oven at 450 degrees and increase the temperature until the bullets start to melt or slump. Be sure to use an accurate oven thermometer and a pan that will not be used again for food. Once the bullets start to melt or slump, back off the temperature about 10 degrees and slide in your first batch of good bullets. Leave these in the oven for 1 hour. Remove the bullets from the oven and plunge them into cool water. Allow them to cool thoroughly. When you are ready to lubricate, install a Lyman sizing die .001" larger than the one used to initially size them, OR Tumble lube with Alox. This will prevent the sides of the bullets from work-softening from contact with the sizing die. Next apply gas checks if required and lubricate. BULLETS WILL TAKE 2 WEEKS TO FULLY HARDEN. These are now ready for loading.
    Thanks for the info!

  7. #7
    Boolit Master bruce381's Avatar
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    with PC you do not need a real hard alloy or water quench, just cast PC and size you are done.
    And for hunting you can use a softer like COWW alloy to get good expansion with no leading or fouling that is what PC brings to the table.

  8. #8
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    Until you delve into casting for high power/velocity centerfire rifle calibers, air cooled COWW (BHN 12-14) is all that is necessary. I don't powder coat...........i would go the gas check route, first. Standard lube is all I ever used. I even use it in full snort loading for 357 and 44 magnum carbines, without leading.

    BTW, there is no such thing as hardcast. It's all relative.

    Winelover

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Cast10's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info Bruce/winelover......

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check