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Thread: Soft stick-ons don't want to melt

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Soft stick-ons don't want to melt

    I melted a pot of wheel weights last night and I didn't have my thermometer handy (it's been a while since I melted anything). So I was watching the melt like a hawk and just took out anything that didn't melt right away. What surprised me is that the stick-ons that I was "sure" were lead (softest of all of them - but not the foam ones) did not seem to melt at all.

    I've been doing some reading and it seems that the higher-content lead weights have fewer alloys and melt at a higher temperature. If that's true, I guess I should grab them back out of the scrap pile?

  2. #2
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    Minerat's Avatar
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    Melt them separately if you can. Maybe with a soldering torch in a tin can just to be safe so it does not contaminate your other batches. I have a small lyman cast iron pot that I use for questionable weights or to break down solder for the pot sweetener nuggets I make.

    Once you get them melted and cleaned then you can let the batch solidify and remelt checking the temperature when it goes liquid to find out if it is usable alloy.
    Steve,

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  3. #3
    Boolit Master Cast10's Avatar
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    I melted same yesterday too! I hand sorted mine to ensure all were lead. I let my pot heat up with a small amount first then added as it was liquid. It seemed mine did well around 650-680, but 650 being where it held and kept it liquid. I use a fish fryer burner and a 4qt Dutch Oven. It melted all the paper and crud off, with some help from sawdust.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master hoodat's Avatar
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    Yeah, a guy might assume that harder alloys would melt at a higher temp, but alas, that is not the case. Pure lead has a higher melting temp than lead alloys.

    If I recall, this is the case for most alloys. jd

  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
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    I know solder is like that... it melts at a lower temperature than the tin or lead that it's made of. I have a casting ladle and I did cast a few rounds out of the pot so I could do a BHN test. They cast fine (under the non-ideal conditions) so I know I didn't have anything goofy in the melt. I'll be outside again today. I think I'll take all of the slag and clips and these stick-ons and remelt it all. I'll let it sit for a while, then flux it good and take the garbage off the top while it's extra hot. Maybe I'll squeese the last drops of goodness out of my slag pile. It seems I tried this before and determined it wasn't worth it, but sometimes I'm stupid like that.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master hoodat's Avatar
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    I've just been melting all of my stick ons, sheet lead, lead wire etc. and marking the ingots "pure lead" for future use in soft bullets.
    A guy has to be careful any more because there are now stick-ons that are zinc. jd

  7. #7
    Boolit Bub
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    Yeah, I've thrown away a lot of stick ons that I knew weren't lead. I use a pair of wire cutters to verify stuff is soft before I put it in the "to melt" bucket. I only melted about 30% of my last "score." I threw the rest away, but now I think I'm going to take it to the scrap yard. There's no way they can expect to be getting mostly lead any more. I won't feel guilty.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cast10 View Post
    I melted same yesterday too! I hand sorted mine to ensure all were lead. I let my pot heat up with a small amount first then added as it was liquid. It seemed mine did well around 650-680, but 650 being where it held and kept it liquid. I use a fish fryer burner and a 4qt Dutch Oven. It melted all the paper and crud off, with some help from sawdust.
    It's not safe adding unknown lead to molten lead. wheel weights are not too bad IF you.ve had them in a dry place for some time.
    All you need is 1 moisture pocket in a piece of lead to empty your pot onto everything close by.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paramax55 View Post
    Yeah, I've thrown away a lot of stick ons that I knew weren't lead. I use a pair of wire cutters to verify stuff is soft before I put it in the "to melt" bucket. I only melted about 30% of my last "score." I threw the rest away, but now I think I'm going to take it to the scrap yard. There's no way they can expect to be getting mostly lead any more. I won't feel guilty.
    Buy one of the cheap Lee pots and melt the zinc . Try casting and shooting some zinc bullets . There are folks doing that now due to lead restrictions and some just because it works and allows the use of otherwise junk casting metal . The bullets are lighter but they can be made to shoot good . I'm as traditional as it gets with my shooting but I'm saving my zinc and am dedicating a pot to it to make plinking loads and save my lead for serious shooting.
    Grumpy Old Man With A Gun....... Do Not Touch !!

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conditor22 View Post
    It's not safe adding unknown lead to molten lead. wheel weights are not too bad IF you.ve had them in a dry place for some time.
    All you need is 1 moisture pocket in a piece of lead to empty your pot onto everything close by.
    Actually, you should be careful with the stored, dry wheel weights too. Some have salt deposits, particularly in the clip, and can hold enough moisture associated with the salt to be dangerous. Wheel weights should be placed in a cold pot, and then the temperature should be raised. This allows the heat to drive off moisture before the weights melt.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Cast10's Avatar
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    Yessir.
    I had them laid out on the slab in the sun for a few hours before hand. I also allowed the humidity to drop prior to beginning the operation at hand. Being a newby, I did all I could to have them dry. I also wore proper PPEs including glasses, just in case.
    That said, would you have had added all of it at one time? Thanks.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    Wheel weights should be placed in a cold pot, all of a pot full, and then the temperature should be raised. This allows the heat to drive off moisture before the weights melt.

  13. #13
    Boolit Mold Cucumbermonkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tatume View Post
    Actually, you should be careful with the stored, dry wheel weights too. Some have salt deposits, particularly in the clip, and can hold enough moisture associated with the salt to be dangerous. Wheel weights should be placed in a cold pot, and then the temperature should be raised. This allows the heat to drive off moisture before the weights melt.
    I put mine in an oven at 300F to get them warmed for the pot and also drive out any moisture.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tatume View Post
    Wheel weights should be placed in a cold pot, all of a pot full, and then the temperature should be raised. This allows the heat to drive off moisture before the weights melt.
    Good advice. I do the same with range lead.
    Don Verna


  15. #15
    Boolit Bub
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    I re-melted my slag and I'm glad I did. I pulled the clips WAY too cold last night and pulled a bunch of lead with it. I used that stuff as a base to melt the soft lead. It didn't want to melt until it got REALLY hot, then it melted slow, and it froze to EVERYTHING - my mixing spoon, the ladle, the side of the pot, EVERYTHING! But it made some shiny bullets with a BHN of 7.2. I got about 18# of the stuff from this run. It will definitely need some tin.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master

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    I have buckets of WW's, retrieved dry and stored dry, now more than two years since I last smelted 100# batches into 3# alloy ingots, that'll never be a worry about water when adding to a bulk batch melt. I have to cast a LOT of (255 grain and smaller) boolits with the remaining 500#'s of 3# alloy ingots before I am ready to melt bulk batches again...but I'm ready...particularly to show new folks the process and get them interested and started on their own!
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Land Owner View Post
    I have buckets of WW's, retrieved dry and stored dry, now more than two years since I last smelted 100# batches into 3# alloy ingots, that'll never be a worry about water when adding to a bulk batch melt.
    The air in Florida is hardly dry! Salt, which is hygroscopic, readily absorbs moisture from the air. The salt deposits on wheel weights can hold enough moisture to cause a steam explosion. Being in Florida doesn't eliminate salt either, as people from the cold, wintry north drive to Florida. While we may have gotten away with dropping wheel weights into hot, molten lead, it only takes one salty weight to ruin a day.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    Oxidation can retard melting too. I see that with lead pipe. Pipe can stay immersed in a pot for a long time and not melt.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    I find a lot of stick on weights that are zinc.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tatume View Post
    The air in Florida is hardly dry! Salt, which is hygroscopic, readily absorbs moisture from the air. The salt deposits on wheel weights can hold enough moisture to cause a steam explosion. Being in Florida doesn't eliminate salt either, as people from the cold, wintry north drive to Florida. While we may have gotten away with dropping wheel weights into hot, molten lead, it only takes one salty weight to ruin a day.
    They have been stored in a water tight Connex for two years. I don't see an issue with hygroscopic salt. Bare metal in the Connex (e.g. equipment, shovels, post hole digger, military cartridge boxes, etc.), would give some indication over time if there was salt in the atmosphere inside. None is noted.
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check