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Thread: Logan 11x36 model 1957

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy alfadan's Avatar
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    Yep, this is fun stuff for sure. I would like to get an AXA for it; actually debating getting an actual Aloris or tempted by the Chicom set Scott logan sells just to support his business a little. An actual American tool post would be nice. I did take a stone to the ways already as they were too grimy to use without cleanup. Just have some staining and the dings now, but no raised dings anyway.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfadan View Post
    Yep, this is fun stuff for sure. I would like to get an AXA for it; actually debating getting an actual Aloris or tempted by the Chicom set Scott logan sells just to support his business a little. An actual American tool post would be nice. I did take a stone to the ways already as they were too grimy to use without cleanup. Just have some staining and the dings now, but no raised dings anyway.
    I’ve been reading this thread with a great deal of interest. From the start it appears that you have happened onto a really useful lathe. I wouldn’t hesitate to add an AXA tool post setup ASAP, especially if you have to get a tool post anyway. There’s a lot of snobbery out there involving “real” Aloris vs the imitators... I “inherited” a bunch of Aloris holders but bought a knock off post, and what I’ve used it, I have no complaints. I would also agree with whoever suggested a set of collets. Good 5C collets are widely available and you should easily be able to find the adaptor to use them in that big spindle. My Sheldon takes 4C and I had the Devil’s own time finding and affording that set!

    Anyway, congratulations on your fine acquisition. It sounds like you really “struck gold!”

    Froggie

    PS I’ve been told it’s better to get a wedge rather than a piston type mechanism, especially if you buy the cheaper one... perhaps somebody with more experience than I have can comment??
    "It aint easy being green!"

  3. #23
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    Another really nice thing to make up ( especially if you change chucks a lot) is a board to set on the ways and have the chuck at close to the right height. Saves dings from dropping the chuck or other heavy tooling

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Another really nice thing to make up ( especially if you change chucks a lot) is a board to set on the ways and have the chuck at close to the right height. Saves dings from dropping the chuck or other heavy tooling
    That’s not a nice thing, a board to protect the ways is more along the lines of a “must have.” One little slip with any chuck appropriate to that size lathe is “gonna leave a mark.”
    "It aint easy being green!"

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Frog View Post
    I’ve been reading this thread with a great deal of interest. From the start it appears that you have happened onto a really useful lathe. I wouldn’t hesitate to add an AXA tool post setup ASAP, especially if you have to get a tool post anyway. There’s a lot of snobbery out there involving “real” Aloris vs the imitators... I “inherited” a bunch of Aloris holders but bought a knock off post, and what I’ve used it, I have no complaints. I would also agree with whoever suggested a set of collets. Good 5C collets are widely available and you should easily be able to find the adaptor to use them in that big spindle. My Sheldon takes 4C and I had the Devil’s own time finding and affording that set!

    Anyway, congratulations on your fine acquisition. It sounds like you really “struck gold!”

    Froggie

    PS I’ve been told it’s better to get a wedge rather than a piston type mechanism, especially if you buy the cheaper one... perhaps somebody with more experience than I have can comment??
    Wedge type puts a lot more surface area against the tool holders, in two directions into the dovetail joints, to lock them in place. The piston type presses a piston against the face between the dovetails pushing it away from the tool post, and it's usually much less area, and much less force, so the tool holders can move.

    See: http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/...ic.php?t=83696

    Bill

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy alfadan's Avatar
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    Yep, plan on making a wood chuck-liner-upper for it! Even if just R/R the three jaw for cleaning it would help save my back. I have some 5c collets so would just need to come up with a collet closer and can try that out. Took the headstock off and the bearings are gritty so need to find some replacements.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfadan View Post
    Yep, plan on making a wood chuck-liner-upper for it! Even if just R/R the three jaw for cleaning it would help save my back. I have some 5c collets so would just need to come up with a collet closer and can try that out. Took the headstock off and the bearings are gritty so need to find some replacements.
    I've got a couple of collet closers for a SB Heavy 10L, with the 1-3/8" spindle opening, I can get measurements for you if you'd like.

    Though you can get everything you really need in dimensions that aren't from YOUR lathe right here: https://www.metalartspress.com/howto...let-dimensions

    Mine has a odd-ball taper in the spindle, MT4-1/2 or so, and a nosepiece to fit that taper, and adapt it to the 5C collets. You'll probably need something similar. The taper is pretty short, so you could probably make it on the lathe without a taper attachment. Mine has a taper attachment, but like the lathe itself, it's in need of some serious restoration.

    Scott can probably help you find bearings, too. Good luck, and have fun!

    Bill

  8. #28
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    The AXA tool post is a must, along with miniature boring bar set and holder. If you have a taper attachment, you can cut any taper you want, otherwise use the tool post to cut short tapers, just a hit and miss to get the taper you are wanting.

    A board, or better yet a ,2x12 long enough to cover the ways for changing chucks is a requirement also.
    Benefactor Member of NRA

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy alfadan's Avatar
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    Just a quick update. Ive replaced every bearing in the thing. Had one bad gear in the QC gearbox. Logan wants $250 for it so after watching Mr.pete do the excact same repair, I fixed it for 20 bucks. I put a L510 VFD on and it works great. Put it all together and it works great.
    A new 3 jaw is on the way as the original is shot unfortunately. An Aloris AXA is waiting to be put on too.

  10. #30
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    You will love it!!!!!

  11. #31
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    I bought mine new, from Minnesota Industrial Tool, in 1969, along with a Boice Crane drill press and loads of tools and attachments. I was venturing into the world of trying to make a living as a real live full time gunsmith. Been in and out about a dozen times since. Some folks are REAL slow learners and others never learn. I believe I fit in the latter category.
    I have done just about everything that can be done on a lathe with it, including boring small engine jugs, milling an octagon barrel and upteen jillion "normal" gunsmith jobs. I even have a paper roller set up, to make usable size rolls of hamburger patty paper (for our patty maker) from the huge bulk rolls we buy.
    I didn't particularly like the "rocker" tool holder so made my own tool post tool holder to accept 1/2" tools. However, I use mostly 1/4" high speed (Rex AAA being my preferred) because they are easier to grind and I can shim them to the exact height I need.
    When it's time to fight, you fight like you are the third monkey on the ramp to Noah's Ark.... and brother, it's STARTING TO RAIN!!

  12. #32
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Another helpfull item simple and easy, a length of black iron pipe or conduit that fits in the spindle bore. length of chuck and 6"each end. this when chucked in lace gives a handle on each end of chuck, round and heavy isnt a good combination.

    Roysha, Pick up some 1/2" key stock and mill a 1/4" slot 1/4" deep down it set you 1/4" tools in it and clamp down. no shimming required

  13. #33
    Boolit Buddy alfadan's Avatar
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    Well I'm gonna call this one done. Many thanks to everyone for the ideas. Just making some chips and learning this machine, but I can tell it will be so much better than the minilathe. The Aloris post and holders' quality are very nice.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #34
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    Nice looking machine there,appears to have a decent spindle bore size. Now the search for tooling begins LOL.

  15. #35
    Boolit Bub MBfrontier's Avatar
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    Hi, alfadan.

    I haven't been on this sight for a while and was searching on some info for what I need to do to enable metric threading on my Logan 1957 Lathe and one of the items that came up was this thread. First, congratulations on your refurb work. I purchased my lathe in 2016 and refurbed parts of it and have been running it infrequently since then. They sure are handy when you need them.Click image for larger version. 

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    Mike B.

  16. #36
    Boolit Buddy alfadan's Avatar
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    Thanks and to you too. Good looking machine.
    I'm not 100% sure, but I think metric threading may not be possible with our machines because of the QC gearbox. If we had change-gears, we could do it by leaving the the halfnut engaged and reversing the spindle to the start of the thread.

    Ive learned so much with my Logan and having a lot of fun.

  17. #37
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    On quick change machines it may take a new gear set change and the feed thread and half nut.

    If you can convert the metric thread to English and have a feed per rotation thats the same or close you can fo it with the feed you have to revearse to bacj iut you can disengage the feed till the thread is done

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    On quick change machines it may take a new gear set change and the feed thread and half nut.

    If you can convert the metric thread to English and have a feed per rotation thats the same or close you can fo it with the feed you have to revearse to bacj iut you can disengage the feed till the thread is done
    Most US lathes you can use a combination of a 127 tooth, and 100 tooth gears to make them metric compatible with a US/SAE leadscrew. they get you an exact conversion, so you get exactly correct thread pitch. The gears are available, but they ain't cheap. I was able to print gears for the 7x10 mini-lathe, but never got around to trying them. I bought a printer large enough to do them for the Atlas, and probably for the South Bend, but I need to learn more about 3D printing, and 3d design for printing.

    This may be a useful resource for you, and you can have 3D printed gears made for you by several companies if you not interested in 3D printing, or lack friends who are.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6Aq0d1070I&t=468s

    Bill

  19. #39
    Boolit Master

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    Did not think about spindle hole diameter when I bought my SB 9"

    Would have held out for a 10" if I had been thinking.
    Precludes doing tome activities "through" the spindle!

    Oh well hasn't stopped me yet, well yes, I just have not done the things that needed to be done that way.
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