Can I damage a damascus barrel with my propane torch or a heat gun?

[RustyReel]

My question as stated in the title relates to the tread I posted here http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...der-Assistance

Shot three of my loads a week or so ago, one to unknown places just to make sure the gun would stay together and the other two sorta aimed and landed 3" apart at 50 yards. Shot three more today into a 7 inch "group" at 50 yards. Looks like the little single shot has some potential.

Problem is there are no sights on this thing. There is the ghost of a front bead that has been worn down to barrel height. What I would like to do is epoxy some basic sights on this thing or maybe even a scope base. But I will want to remove them once I'm tired of playing with it. Only way I know to remove epoxied on stuff is with heat and am wondering if the heat it will take will damage the barrel.

Thoughts will be appreciated. Thanks.

[Hogtamer]

The bead can be replaced if you can get the old one out.

[KenH]

The low level of heat required to break epoxy won't bother your Damascus barrel. Only a couple hundred degrees F should do the trick. It would take well over 350F to damage the Damascus barrel temper, "IF" it has any temper.

[megasupermagnum]

Being an Octagon to round barrel, it sure looks to have a thick breech. Any chance you would consider drilling and tapping instead?

[RustyReel]

Being an Octagon to round barrel, it sure looks to have a thick breech. Any chance you would consider drilling and tapping instead?

I think it is a neat piece. I'm sure it has no historical or collector value but I don't really want to alter it permanently. Thanks for your help and advice guys.

[megasupermagnum]

I can't answer whether or not heat will damage the barrel, but heating it will permanently alter and damage the finish.

[Cap'n Morgan]

...maybe even a scope base.

I once thought of mounting a holo-sight on an old cape gun. The plan was to match the base to the topside of the barrels using a bedding compound. Of course, the barrels would be coated with a thin wax layer to prevent sticking, and a few rounds of electrical tape or rubber bands would hold the contraption in place (as you noticed, epoxy takes heat to come of, and soft soldered barrels & heat is a risky thing)

As so many of my well laid plans, this project too, came to nothing.

[Hdskip]

I would think about using a heat gun before I resorted to propane.

[megasupermagnum]

I would think about using a heat gun before I resorted to propane.

A heat gun will do nothing at all to JB weld. You need 600+ degrees to break that bond.

[RustyReel]

What I would be using is Brownells glass bedding compound. I've used it before on steel barrels and removed them using my propane torch. I've never tried using my heat gun to remove them. I have a junk barrel or two laying around here and I think I'll epoxy on a junk site and see if I can remove it with my heat gun.

I also have a couple of extra shotgun beads. Problem is my Harbor Fright drill press isn't precise enough to drill the existing bead out, which is what would have to be done to remove it. Used the press to drill out some larger screws on other projects and know it wanders a quite a bit.

[megasupermagnum]

What I would be using is Brownells glass bedding compound. I've used it before on steel barrels and removed them using my propane torch. I've never tried using my heat gun to remove them. I have a junk barrel or two laying around here and I think I'll epoxy on a junk site and see if I can remove it with my heat gun.

I also have a couple of extra shotgun beads. Problem is my Harbor Fright drill press isn't precise enough to drill the existing bead out, which is what would have to be done to remove it. Used the press to drill out some larger screws on other projects and know it wanders a quite a bit.

You can do it with your drill press. File the bead off flat, and as carefully as you can, mark the center of the bead with a fine pointed center punch. With the center marked, you can drill it out. The bit will not wander if it has a mark. If you really want to get fancy, you can use a spot drill after marking, which will not wander. Then follow with a drill bit.

[Geezer in NH]

Having soldered ribs on Damascus barrels over a propane pipe burner I will say they were heated before to solder them so of course they can be heated to solder again. Use a low temp solder for the ribs. Of course it damages the finish but what good is original finish if the ribs are off? After soldering re-finish the barrels.

And before going that far have all dents removed and the bores smoothened again. Have the thickness of the sidewalls measured to be sure they are still thick enough. All this is beyond the capabilities of most armatures and some professional gunsmiths.

The Brits had guns refinished every few years to re-blacken the barrels seems the USA has a problem wanting original finish on unserviceable firearms.

I have nephew who collects stamps and he refers to others who collect them but want the original glue on them as Gum Collectors.

All depends on what YOU want!

[45-70 Chevroner]

I would in no way use a propane torch. It will damage the barrell. That is a black powder shot shell shooter. I had one back in 1966 and was shooting low base shells in it until I was told not shoot anything in it but black powder shells. I sold it because I could not find any black powder shells. I wish I still had it, it was a beautiful shot gun.