A 22 Bator boolit above a medium charge of IMR4227 was pulled from its primed 223 case. The 22 cal. gas check stayed in the case neck!
Unintentionally, I made a "blank". I should have just shot the Bator. Too late for that. Now what?
A 22 Bator boolit above a medium charge of IMR4227 was pulled from its primed 223 case. The 22 cal. gas check stayed in the case neck!
Unintentionally, I made a "blank". I should have just shot the Bator. Too late for that. Now what?
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
Use tweezers to turn it sideways and pull it out.
Solved: maybe.
Took apart another, sized, gas checked, but damaged Bator destined for remelt. Seated that Bator a smidgeon deeper (0.005") in the case neck and above the "stuck" gas check. No way to know if the rebated base entered the gas check or just shoved it deeper into the case neck or completely below the neck (I did not calculate embedment). I labeled the case with a marker "BAD BATOR". Will shoot and hope gas check exits the barrel, which I think now that it should.
[LATE NOTE] yes, tweezers would have been a way to go - had I read your response before taking off on a tangent. Probably could pull the seated Bator now and go for tweezers...
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
What are you trying save? The powder, the case or the check? Seems like a lot of effort for one or all of these. Just one, right? Sounds like that check is likely down with the powder now. Not something I want to shoot.
Take a kid to the range, you'll both be glad you did.
Just one. Want to shoot it I think. Don't want the check to "cause trouble" if it is already inside the case. Not sure, unless I tweezer it, that I can save the primer and case otherwise. Tiny expense and immensely SAFE just to toss I suppose.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
I've had good success removing gas checks by hooking them with my bent paper clip. Either turning the check in the neck or inverted if it's in the case body.
I would not shoot it. But I am the local safety Nazi.
Pull the bullet and use tweezers to pull out the GC. Why would you risk a problem?
Don Verna
Safe way is to pull the boolit, remove check with tweezers or better miniature needle nose plyers, if you have them. If the check is past the neck, pour out the powder, turn over the case and grab the check.
Pull bullet, dump powder, slightly elongate case neck by squeezing with smooth jawed pliers. Shake check out, neck size case and drive on. I've made a bunch of mistakes in my lifetime and this is the easiest way out/beagle
diplomacy is being able to say, "nice doggie" until you find a big rock.....
Beagle's suggestion is a good one. I have settled on a similar process. I do have a small pair of needle nose pliers that work better than tweezers.
This just happened to me yesterday with .012" material checks / 30-30.
This bullet may like the .016" check after all, even though these thinner ones size fine to the intended .311" dia, not undersize.
But my checks are oiled from cutting them, that may cause them to slip from a PC:d shank when pulled. And the thicker ones are so unpleasant to cut, I rather buy Hornady. Buying Hornady is also cheaper than making my self made copper .016" checks.
Anyway,these came out with a hammer style bullet puller just fine.
These came out with the hammer puller just fine. Only a couple of taps
Petander, It will probably happen also with original Hornady GC, it happened almost always (99%) to me even with original Hornady GC’s in .223, 7mm RM, 7x64 and later in .300 BLK.
On the other hand, all GC stayed on the shanks even after penetrating some wet or dry paper.
It is just an “case neck issue”
I keep several sets of those medical forceps to grab small objects and they work well to reach in to turn and remove a wayward gas check . I have never lost one in a 223 neck but have removed several 6.5 and 30 cal.
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Well this is the first time I've seen this. I have used boxes of Hornadys - but on a different bullet. And another round like 308 and 300 WM, shorter necks. Subsonic experiments...
Now I have used a 7.62 Russian expander to better match my .3115" 30-30 bullet. Standard 30-30 is unnecessarily tight for mild cast loads.
This is not a problem of any kind,I just posted to tell that the checks in the necks can be tapped out with a hammer puller.
I have use a small crochet hook , works great for me.
I had the same thing happen with 5 30-30 cases yesterday, just put the case back in the inertia bullet puller and a whack or two later the check is out.
NRA Endowment Life Member
I've used tweezers, small needlenose, turn gas check sidewise - pull out, if it it goes into case, just shake to neck after dumping powder and pull gas check out. Special operations or tools not necessary.
no powder, I had loaded 5 dummy rounds to see how they fed. Used an RCBS whack-a-mole to "pull" the cast bullets. Noticed the gas checks were left in the brass, so put the brass in and one or two whacks and they were out unharmed by the experience.
NRA Endowment Life Member
Okay,I was asking because I originally posted here based on pulling loaded ammo. Checks came out relatively easy after a few wxtra "whacks", whatsoever. But there was 30 grains of powder to help.
Now, my half-dummies with primers only didn't work that way.
And I definitely used my larger expander (.311) plus some flare. Just checking my coating again. All good.
No idea why my checks didn't come out easy this time. My tighter expander could explain this but I wasn't using it, not for cast.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |