92 not cocking

[Ruts]

I recently bought an old Winchester 92 in 44 40. When I work the lever to chamber a round the hammer follows the bolt to the fired position, I mean it won’t stay on cock. Then I pull hammer back to cock it, and it seems secure and fires normally. Why would this happen? It seems the bolt might not be pushing the hammer as far with the lever not sure what’s up

[sparky45]

Pretty much out of my pay grade, but something (Sear or Hammer or the lever itself) is or all are worn. She needs a good goin' over by a Gunsmith.

[cwtebay]

I have an 1892 in 32wcf that would do the same. A wise member on this forum opined that cleaning it VERY thoroughly would at least not hurt. Turns out it fixed the problem! Not saying that there are not some worn parts in it, but it has functioned perfectly since taking the stocks off and submerging it in kroil.

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[Texas by God]

If cleaning doesn't fix it; do this test with the gun unloaded of course. Cycle the bolt back with the lever and stop at the rear limit. Now push down on the top rear of the bolt. If the hammer cocks, either the top edge of the hammer is worn or the bottom of the bolt is.
Good luck with it.



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[Triggerfinger]

Check to see if the sear has tension on it by the trigger spring. If no tension it won't push the sear to engage the notch on the hammer.

[Ruts]

If cleaning doesn't fix it; do this test with the gun unloaded of course. Cycle the bolt back with the lever and stop at the rear limit. Now push down on the top rear of the bolt. If the hammer cocks, either the top edge of the hammer is worn or the bottom of the bolt is.
Good luck with it.



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Yes it cocks if I push the bolt down. I think building up the bottom of the bolt with weld would fix it

[redhawk0]

I had this exact problem with a recent 1894 Winchester that I'm "resurrecting". I have a buddy who welds. He put about 2mm steel weld at the top of the hammer face where that part of the hammer meets the bolt. Then I carefully filed the weld so the top of the hammer was built up about 1mm higher. This allowed the bolt to slide over it pushing it down further until the sear dropped into the hammer notch. If you go this route, make sure whoever welds it does not remove the temper from the hardened hammer notch area. My guy put 2 brass plates on either side of the hammer and used them as a heat sink while welding. (he is a military contractor machinist...he's pretty sharp)....anyway...after removing the material it needs to be polished so it doesn't wear the bottom of the bolt surface.

redhawk

[indian joe]

Yes it cocks if I push the bolt down. I think building up the bottom of the bolt with weld would fix it

maybe weld the hammer - definitely NOT the bolt

you might try a shim washer under the lower tang right near the tang bolt - if the stock wood is tired the tang bolt will pull the lower tang up and things get out of alignment.

[para45lda]

Like Triggerfinger said. Check that spring. It keeps the sear lifted up to the hammer notch.

[ulav8r]

Do not weld on the bolt unless it is done be an experienced micro-weldor who can do it without softening the bolt and use a filler that is wear resistant or use a filler that matches the steel of the bolt so it can be heat treated. That would require the bolt be annealed, welded, re-shaped, and then heat treated. Much easier to work on the hammer as mentioned above.

[edp2k]

Always modify/work-on the cheaper part.
In this case modify the hammer top, not the bolt.

Indian Joe's thing about the washer sounds like the first thing to try,
including a good mineral spirits and toothbrush scrubbing of the interior parts
to make sure its not dirt/hardened grease causing something to not have a full range of motion.

[cwtebay]

I'm going to amend my statement based on a few posts here - I did use a degreasing agent soak prior to kroil and also blasted out the gross debris and placed in an ultrasonic cleaner.
I do like the shim washer idea also - that's a very easy fix that I need to explore.


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[indian joe]

I'm going to amend my statement based on a few posts here - I did use a degreasing agent soak prior to kroil and also blasted out the gross debris and placed in an ultrasonic cleaner.
I do like the shim washer idea also - that's a very easy fix that I need to explore.


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It may not be whats needed - I used a 38 special case flattened down, sawed the base off and cut a little notch in one end to locate it round the tang bolt - have two rifles with this in - a Browning 71 needed it to get clearance between underside of bolt and hammer nose and a 92 - cant remember what that problem was but the inlet in the stock is too deep - its an easy thing to try.

[cwtebay]

It may not be whats needed - I used a 38 special case flattened down, sawed the base off and cut a little notch in one end to locate it round the tang bolt - have two rifles with this in - a Browning 71 needed it to get clearance between underside of bolt and hammer nose and a 92 - cant remember what that problem was but the inlet in the stock is too deep - its an easy thing to try.

I completely agree that's a great idea! I have a Remington#3 that had a similar fix for the take down - but the brass is a 44 Henry case head. Ya gotta love a little ingenuity!

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[Ruts]

Looks like welding up the hammer is the best bet I looked at everything else and tried the washer. There seems to be a lot of wear in different areas that are adding up, the worst being the bolt/receiver interface the bolt moves up and down quite a bit when the action is open.'

[indian joe]

Looks like welding up the hammer is the best bet I looked at everything else and tried the washer. There seems to be a lot of wear in different areas that are adding up, the worst being the bolt/receiver interface the bolt moves up and down quite a bit when the action is open.'

except for the bump at the rear of the bolt that cocks the hammer you need to maintain clearance between the hammer nose and the arch underside of the bolt or else the bolt binds in its running track and you accelerate the wear thats already there - translation = some is good more is not so good

[cwtebay]

Looks like welding up the hammer is the best bet I looked at everything else and tried the washer. There seems to be a lot of wear in different areas that are adding up, the worst being the bolt/receiver interface the bolt moves up and down quite a bit when the action is open.'

I've gotta say here - if you're going to need to build up one area, chances are that's not the only issue. Going through a good manual and a careful examination of all of the entire action and mechanism is crucial. I am definitely game for diving into a project, but I have learned to know when to say when and hire a professional gunsmith.
I hope your rifle turns out well!

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[Deadeye Bly]

Shorten the sear about .010". No welding or heat involved. You can mill it with a carbide end mill or grind or stone it shorter. The wear on the bolt and the slots it rides in in the receiver plus the wear on top of the hammer prevents the hammer from being moved back far enough to engage the sear. Shortening it will get it working properly. They were thru hardened so no reheatreating is needed.

[indian joe]

Shorten the sear about .010". No welding or heat involved. You can mill it with a carbide end mill or grind or stone it shorter. The wear on the bolt and the slots it rides in in the receiver plus the wear on top of the hammer prevents the hammer from being moved back far enough to engage the sear. Shortening it will get it working properly. They were thru hardened so no reheatreating is needed.

thats a better plan !!!!

[Ruts]

Shorten the sear about .010". No welding or heat involved. You can mill it with a carbide end mill or grind or stone it shorter. The wear on the bolt and the slots it rides in in the receiver plus the wear on top of the hammer prevents the hammer from being moved back far enough to engage the sear. Shortening it will get it working properly. They were thru hardened so no reheatreating is needed.

So I did a trigger job and got my pull to sub3 pounds and got my cocking function back works great now thanks