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Thread: First PPB shooting

  1. #21
    Boolit Bub Claudius's Avatar
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    Hi all, this is my second attempt @200 meters with my new DDEPP bullets, but the results were too bad, worse than the previous shooting session. I tried 2mm compression and 80gn load, but the grouping was much larger and I had a keyhole. The next time I'll try to use a thicker paper (Strathmore), in this way the DDEPP bullets stay less wobbling in the case and will chamber with a light pressure.

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  2. #22
    Boolit Master


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    Is the PPB shallow seated (.1") in the case? With a greaser chamber you want as much of the PPB into the rifling as possible.

    Does the PPB fit snug into the bore? Sounds like it doesn't and I agree to increase the patch paper thickness. This may be the reason or a contributing reason for the keyhole.

    How do the pieces of patch paper look after firing - nice, clean confetti or any burnt marks showing? After making the above changes, check the paper after firing.

    Instead of hard Lyman #2 (antimony), casting with 16:1 lead:tin, for better slick obturation during ignition, and better bore sealing. Use light compression for starters, .060"-.125". Wipe well between shots and make sure the chamber is dry before inserting another round.

    Keep at it, you'll get it!
    The only government I trust is the .45-70 ....

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    What Rob said works , he"s been there done that and better !/Ed

  4. #24
    Boolit Bub Claudius's Avatar
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    The DDEPP bullet is seated for about 1/8" in che case, so it is into the rifling. The cartridge was chambering normally, perhaps it didn't fit with a proper snug.
    The paper was clean without any burnings.

    Thank you guys for your advices, I'll shoot another 6 DDEPP bullets with the ticker Strathmore paper, if it doesn't work I'll try with a less harder alloy.
    Last edited by Claudius; 04-04-2021 at 07:40 AM.

  5. #25
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    What yer trying to do is reinvent a wheel that don't need re-inventing by starting off with a cartridge that's not as appropriate as it should be. Sticking with the tried 'n' true basics of a good PPB cartridge would be the better way of getting into PPB basics, then you can mess around with components and parameters later, after you have achieved good consistent accuracy. This means using a good slick design, with dimensions appropriate for the bore and rifling twist of the barrel, cast with about a 16:1 alloy, that's sits kinda snug in the case .1", and chambers at best snug in the rifling even after some shots are taken and fouling control administered. Use a .060" LDPE single wad and maybe .060" compression. All of this is kinda important with a greaser chamber that has goodly freebore. This is for starting out and achieving consistent accuracy of at least 4MOA or thereabouts, not shotgun patterns over the target face (assuming wind variables, the shooter's eyes and trigger finger, are all taken out of the accuracy equation). That will build confidence and satisfaction, and invite the beginnings of cartridge build testing if better consistent accuracy is the goal. PM incoming ...
    The only government I trust is the .45-70 ....

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master Don McDowell's Avatar
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    Looks like your cases might not be clean as they should be especially the inside of the case mouth.
    Have you given them a slight chamfer on the inside of the case mouth?
    Drop the crimp of any sort. If the bullets as patched are to loose in the case, you might want to think about a full length resize, and use an expander if necessary that will expand the case mouth to .001 or slighter larger over the finished bullet diameter.
    Looking at the targets, 2 things probably going on. 1st would be take a hard look at your fouling control.. Using something like a 7-1 or 10-1 water and water soluble cutting oil, dampen the patch and push two and maybe as many as 4 thru the bore with the brush, follow up with a dry patch.
    Next evaluate how you're resting the rifle. If you get into position and you have to raise or lower the rifle butt for the sights to be aligned with the target then you need to adjust the height of your front rest.
    Long range rules, the rest drool.

  7. #27
    Boolit Bub Claudius's Avatar
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    Hi guys, I followed your advices and I tried shooting at 100m this time. I produced a little modification in my loading process: I have "squeezed" the case neck using the Lyman taper crimp die to eliminate the bullet wobbling. It seems working good: 5 shots in the central area including 3 shots in 1 hole. I had 2 flyers, I think it was an error in the loading/patching process.
    Thanks again for your advices, Robert and Arnie.

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  8. #28
    Boolit Master


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    Bravo Claudius! Name:  thumbsup.gif
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    The only government I trust is the .45-70 ....

  9. #29
    Boolit Bub Claudius's Avatar
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    Grazie Rob!

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
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    Good Progress, Claudio,
    beltfed/arnoldo

  11. #31
    Boolit Bub Claudius's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beltfed View Post
    Good Progress, Claudio,
    beltfed/arnoldo
    Grazie caro Arnoldo <3

  12. #32
    I see fouling management issues here... like Don. Which could also mean that there is lead in the barrel. Cleaning the barrel well, and the next test, use a routine of 2 wet, 2 dry patches between each shot to make sure the bore is completely dry and clean for the next shot. Don't 'think' , know!
    FWIW, taper crimping the case for a better bullet fit usually isn't all that much of an accuracy enhancer.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master


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    It's not about "taper crimping", it's about a careful and slight squeeze of the case mouth so the PPB doesn't fall out, yet can easily be pulled out and replaced. The amount of neck tension achieved is negligent with regards to accuracy.
    The only government I trust is the .45-70 ....

  14. #34
    Boolit Bub Claudius's Avatar
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    This is my first decent 9 shots grouping @200 meters with my Pedersoli Sharps "Q" 45/70, double diameter bullets (Arnie Seitz project), Lyman #2 alloy, 80gn swiss nr 4. wind 7/10 kts. It seems that these DDEPP bullets are starting to work good.

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  15. #35
    Boolit Buddy
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    Great Progress, Claudio
    beltfed/arnoldo

  16. #36
    Boolit Bub Claudius's Avatar
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    Thanks again Arnoldo.
    Just another question about wads: I'm using the tetrapak wads (diameter 12mm), and I found that 2 wads of 0.4mm each are better than one. The next time I'll use 3 tetrapak wads, total thickness 1.2mm. Another alternative are the felt wads, but never tried one.
    What about the LDPE wads?

  17. #37
    Boolit Buddy
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    Claudio,
    I have been using 0.060" thick LDPE wads right along in my BPCR rifles.
    I wonder if I sent you some that they would go thru your customs/mail without much trouble.????
    Arnoldo

  18. #38
    Boolit Bub Claudius's Avatar
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    It would be great, dear Arnoldo.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master


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    Claudio - remember, I already sent you a bunch of .460 LDPE wads along with the Jim444530E PPBs and Seth Cole paper.
    The only government I trust is the .45-70 ....

  20. #40
    Boolit Bub Claudius's Avatar
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    Hi Rob, thank you very much, what wonderful friends!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check