Teach me about annealing with Tempilaq

[pertnear]

I form .222 from .223, .256 win mag from .357 mag & .250 Sav from .308 win. All require annealing the neck & shoulder. What temperature (product #) do I need of TEMPILAQ? How do I use it & where is the best place to get it?

Thanks in advance for your help & comments.

[John Boy]

Temp= 625 F ... wipe it on and when it changes color = your done annealing at the correct temperature

https://forum.accurateshooter.com/th...aling.3784313/

[JimB..]

I paint inside the neck with 750 and outside the case about halfway down with 450. Go until the 750 turns, and do it fast enough that the 450 does not turn.

[NikA]

I use the 475F Tempilaq. I don't see a point to the higher temp stuff; I can't safely heat the brass longer once the 475F stuff liquefied, because that means annealing has started at that spot in the case. I can move that spot relative to the case head, if I feel that I will still have enough work-hardened brass to safely contain the cartridge pressure.

Pretty sure I bought mine from Amazon.

I place a dot of it on 3-4 cases about 3/8" down from the shoulder. I anneal those cases until it liquefies, paying attention to how much time it takes. I then anneal the rest of the cases in the batch for that amount of time.

[rayh]

I use a Ken Light machine and the same 475* and 750* as mentioned. I ran a test on my machine, one bottle was old and had thicken up . The other was new and thin. Since the K. Light is a constant speed and torch settings, the thin melted where the thick turned dark but wasn't melted. I put thinner in the old bottle to thin it out . Ran back to back cases and both old and new melted the same. I worried that if you waited for the thick to melt you might exceed the temp of the Tempilaq. I was more concerned about exceeding the 475* near the base. I thought maybe the thinned Temilaq would give me a truer melt temp.