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Thread: Percussion cap mixture

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Percussion cap mixture

    Not naming a company, there is a company that makes a number 11 percussion cap maker and sells a primer mix for them that is simple and works great. They are swamped with the shortage issues. Does anyone know what is in the primer compound they sell. Is it something that can be found easy and made. I do not have a problem buying from them if they were not so backed up. The priming mixture is also used in their 22 rimfire reloading kit. It does not seem to be corrosive but may be? Thanks for any info.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


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  3. #3
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    i found that too.. i just got shipped primer mix that I purchased a couple months ago... but its all good... its an emergency backup plan for me...
    Any technology not understood, can seem like Magic!!!

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  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    That is the Priming Compound that I use for my primers and it works great.
    I found that it works better if you mix it by Weight rather than by Volume with the little scoop provided.
    I use the 4 chemicals to mix it to the Ratio for H48 compound.
    You can also use three of the provided chemicals to mix it up at the FH 42 compound mix also by Weight.
    When fired , The compounds leave a residue that looks like Instant Rust.
    But it cleans up just fine and doesn't Rust unless you fail to clean up properly.

  5. #5
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    The priming compound is corrosive and it is more economical to buy all three chemicals in larger bulk than it is to buy from 22reloader.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    OP ask if anyone knew what the chemicals were, if anyone knows please post what they are and where you bought them as I need them also for my home made caps.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Buying in bulk is going to be way cheaper.
    But how much compound are you really going to make ?
    Plus , I would not recommend that you make up Big Batches of the compound and put it away in storage.
    Only mix the chemicals when you plan to use them up soon.
    The chemicals themselves are safe to store for a long time.
    But once Mixed , they become very hazardous.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master hoodat's Avatar
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    I am also pretty durned interested in this. Watched the YouTube vid on the kit. Looks too easy to pass up. jd

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
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    Guys there is a LOT of information right here in Special Projects 2nd sticky from the top 32 pages long. The Prime-all is chlorate based and corrosive. Clean as if you used Pyrodex and all will be well. If you use the Prime-all and get tried of it crumbling and falling out.There is several binders that work well to prevent this.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
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  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    If you do the math, a pound of each of the three chemicals make more priers and caps that most of us can shoot in many, many years. They sell a great product that fills a niche, but buying the chemicals in bulk is the way to go.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    good luck finding the items in bulk. if any body has a source for calcium silicide let me know.
    if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    Can't help with that. I use the H42 or H48 mix. Easy to get those items.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    i am working on the non corrosive version. had to order some stuff from Bulgaria and it finally came.
    if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by rancher1913 View Post
    good luck finding the items in bulk. if any body has a source for calcium silicide let me know.
    Use antimony sulfide instead. The only reason to use calcium silicide is because it is a bit more of a frictionizer. Also a few guys here a while back used tin sulfide instead and made it themselves. The French for what ever reason use tin sulfide.

    Other than that, I've been able to find everything needed in bulk. I never spent much time looking for it as it isn't really a must have.

    What can't you find?

  16. #16
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by LIMPINGJ View Post
    OP ask if anyone knew what the chemicals were, if anyone knows please post what they are and where you bought them as I need them also for my home made caps.
    Potassium chlorate, sulfur, antimony sulfide and ground glass. The ground glass is a DIY. If you buy 2 lbs of PC, 1 lb of sulfur and 1 lb of antimony sulfide you'll have spent about $50. That will be enough for about make 50,000 give or take.

    I'd suggest using the H-48.

    But if you are real frugal and willing to try something else, just buy the antimony sulfide. Then ask for matches at the gas station. Crush the heads. By weight mix 3 units of crushed match heads to 1 unit of antimony sulfide. I'm not sure they will work in muzzle loader cap, but do in primers. Then for about $16 you're good for about 50,000 if you get free matches.

    I suspect that sulfur could be substituted for the antimony sulfide, but haven't tried it. But has Ron Brown's mix works in primers fine, I don't know why it wouldn't work in this case also.

    I buy when they have what I want from www.pyrochemsource.com. I don't know them in person, but have my stuff the next day and at about the lowest cost I can find.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    What he said....more info than you can possibly take in during a weekend.

    Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by perotter View Post
    Potassium chlorate, sulfur, antimony sulfide and ground glass. The ground glass is a DIY. If you buy 2 lbs of PC, 1 lb of sulfur and 1 lb of antimony sulfide you'll have spent about $50. That will be enough for about make 50,000 give or take.

    I'd suggest using the H-48.

    But if you are real frugal and willing to try something else, just buy the antimony sulfide. Then ask for matches at the gas station. Crush the heads. By weight mix 3 units of crushed match heads to 1 unit of antimony sulfide. I'm not sure they will work in muzzle loader cap, but do in primers. Then for about $16 you're good for about 50,000 if you get free matches.

    I suspect that sulfur could be substituted for the antimony sulfide, but haven't tried it. But has Ron Brown's mix works in primers fine, I don't know why it wouldn't work in this case also.

    I buy when they have what I want from www.pyrochemsource.com. I don't know them in person, but have my stuff the next day and at about the lowest cost I can find.
    Am I missing something or just live in a high cost delivery area? The product cost for the 4(2+1+1) lbs total is $40. Shipping for me is $28 and only option is FedEx home. Just curious what others are finding.
    Ron

  19. #19
    Boolit Master

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    Your shipping is about $10 more than the box of items I got from them 2 weeks ago. But they are close to me. Close enough that if allowed to pick up in person, the gas would a couple of bucks less then my shipping.

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy
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    I looked and my shipping would be over $20 to Wisc. Love the prices, though. I have my chemicals, but I will order from them in the future.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check