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Thread: 1891 Argentine 7.65 Mauser bolt is broken

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Moleman-'s Avatar
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    Since you're already getting most of the parts anyway, you may want to think about getting the same parts for a 93-96 mauser since there is a better selection especially with low mount safetys, plus all of the 93-96 mausers have the gas wings on the bolt that not all 91 mauser shrouds including yours have. In 2016 sent a complete 1891 bolt to a gunsmith to have it jeweled, the bolt handle cut off and a new one installed to clear a scope. By 2019 I had lost confidence I'd ever see my bolt again but luckily had another bolt body that was within .0005" of the same headspace so I have been using it along with guts from a 96 mauser. Little fitting of the cocking piece, but that is expected with any 120+ year old parts.

  2. #22
    Boolit Mold
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    DG,
    I received the part this morning. Thanks again for your generosity. I will try putting it back together this evening after work. I got your PM about how it works and will be checking it.

    Thanks again,
    Trav

  3. #23
    Boolit Mold
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    new questions and new pics.

    I received the original type safety from DG this morning. I put the bolt back together watching two different youtube videos. Something isn't right. DG, you mentioned that I might have to shave some off of the front of the cocking piece. By my measurements I will have to shave 1/8 inch. That can't be right, can it? Here are some more pics with a tape measure so that you can see the measurements. Do all of these look like the right size pieces?

    The first pic shows how far the cocking pieces recesses into the shroud
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    The second pic shows how about much I will have to bevel. See the mark at 5 1/8. I marked this with the bolt in and the gun cocked.
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    The third pic shows how far the cocking piece extends when cocked.
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    The fourth pic shows the length of the shroud. It almost seems like my shroud is too long.
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    The fifth pic shows the length of the new firing pin.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Make sure you have the cocking piece screwed on the firing pin flush at the rear of the threads. Check to make sure the firing pin does not protrude thru the hole in the bolt face when not cocked.

  5. #25
    Boolit Mold
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    If the cocking piece is screwed on flush, I can catch the firing pin with my finger nail when is not cocked. If I go one more turn in with the cocking piece, I can't feel the firing pin. So maybe what I am thinking of as flush for the cocking piece is not really. When I put it all back together with the cocking piece screwed on enough so that I can't catch the firing pin it, I am still not able to rotate safety from the left to the right. DG suggested that I am going to have to bevel the front top edge of the cocking piece to get it to where the safety will work. I am going to try to do this. I will post some pictures shortly of what I plan to do and mark how much I plan to bevel off.
    Last edited by MagnoliaHunter; 03-16-2021 at 11:14 AM.

  6. #26
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    These parts (safety and cocking piece) often need fitted when replaced or swapped about among rifles. Why that is I'm not certain, as German manufacturing of interchangeable parts was well advanced by 1891. It's kind to the luck of the draw, as some will readily fit in other rifles or with other component parts, but some will not. Seems as though yours is going to require modification.

    The way this safety is designed to function is that when the safety wing is turned from left (9 0'clock-- fire position) to the right (3 o'clock--safe position) the cam on the bottom of the safety part forces it way in front of the cocking piece and moves it to the rear slightly. This moves the firing pin rearward slightly, as it is screwed into the cocking piece and goes along with it's movement to the rear, and also imposes a physical block (the safety part in front of the cocking piece) preventing the cocking piece from being released forward if the trigger is pulled.

    I have done several of these fitting jobs in the past, and it isn't always easy. It is a cut and try job, a little at a time until the desired result is achieved. Just shortening the entire front face of the cocking piece will work to a certain extent, in that, if done carefully, you can hit the exact length needed for the safety part to pass in front of the cocking piece and freeze it in that location. But that does not move the cocking piece rearward, just prevents it from traveling forward. If you cut/grind it a bit longer so that there is enough length to interact with the safety part and be pushed to the rear, you'll likely find that you can't get the safety to turn, just as it is now. What is needed is to cut a bevel on the top upper edge of the cocking piece for the safety part to push against, and as the safety's cam turns in the bevel the cocking piece is forced rearward until the safety part blocks it.

    Cutting the bevel is a bit tricky, and as already stated, it is a cut and try job and will almost certainly require disassembly/reassembly of the bolt multiple times. Very honestly, I ruined at least two cocking pieces in learning how to do it a lot of years ago, but fortunately parts were readily available. In fact, they probably still are. The way that I proceed is to blacken the cocking piece in the area to be modified, using a Sharpie, Dykem layout fluid, or Prussian Blue, let it dry, and then attempt to move the safety from left to right. This will make a small mark in the blackened area. That's where you need to start filing/grinding, removing any metal that is in the way of the turning cam. Doing this carefully and repeatedly will eventually get you the desired result of the safety camming into and past the cocking piece. A highly polished surface on the bevel will help a lot.

    If the cocking piece was disassembled in your fingers and you were looking at it from the front I would expect the bevel to look a little lopsided, extending from about 10:30 o'clock to 2:30 o'clock, and sloping toward the viewer about 1/4 of the thickness from the top to the firing pin hole. That is a rough estimate based on having done several years ago, and not actually digging one out of storage and taking it apart to look at it---so proceed with caution. As you observed, it may well be 1/8" at the top of the bevel.

    DG

  7. #27
    Boolit Mold
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    DG,
    thanks, I understood your explanation in the PM you sent me. I was just telling the others who responded to my emails what my plan of attack was since they were kind enough to respond.

    Trav

  8. #28
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    The Forum abounds with good people, many very knowledgeable. Good luck with this--keep us posted.

    DG

  9. #29
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by Der Gebirgsjager View Post
    The Forum abounds with good people, many very knowledgeable. Good luck with this--keep us posted.

    DG
    I plan to try it tomorrow. I'm going to my Dad's. He has a vice and I will use my drimmel and just start small and keep marking like you said.

    Thanks again.

  10. #30
    Boolit Mold
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    sorry for the delay in updating. I've been really busy at home and and work. This week I am going to attempt to make the mod that DG outlined.

    thanks again for all the help,
    Trav

  11. #31
    Boolit Mold
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    I got it working. I am going to do a little more grinding on it. It works but is hard to flip the safety on. I'm thinking that i need to slope it so that the angle on the cocking piece is not so steep where the safety is hitting it. I may go ahead and order another cocking piece or two to try to do a better job if I can't clean this one up some so that it is easier to flip the safety. The hardest part was the approximately 7422 times that I had to take the bolt apart and put it back together after each little bit of grinding.

    DG, thanks again for all your help and for sending me the safety.

    Trav

  12. #32
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    You're welcome. A high polish will also help.

    DG

  13. #33
    Boolit Mold
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    I worked on it a little more and now its easier to set the safety on. I went to my parents who live out in the country and shot it 10 times with no problems. For the first 5 shots I set up in a lead sled where I was around the corner of the house out of sight pulling the trigger with a string. Yeah, I'm a chicken.

    thanks again DG.

    Trav

  14. #34
    Boolit Mold
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    Just wanted to give an update. The gun is working fine. I was able to take two deer with the gun this season. It shoots accurately and the safety works. Thanks again to everyone who gave advice and to DG for giving a part to someone who you had never met or even talked to prior to this.

    Thanks again,
    Trav

  15. #35
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    Can't argue with success, eh? Great rifle, great cartridge.

    DG

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by MagnoliaHunter View Post
    Just wanted to give an update. The gun is working fine. I was able to take two deer with the gun this season. It shoots accurately and the safety works. Thanks again to everyone who gave advice and to DG for giving a part to someone who you had never met or even talked to prior to this.

    Thanks again,
    Trav
    what were ya using?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check