sharpening knives

[M-Tecs]

If we are talking sharpening systems the one standout is the https://wickededgeusa.com/

More expensive than most and not the fastest, however, nothing comes close to providing the ultimate sharp edge. Through the years I have either owned or tried most of the other systems.

[myg30]

My Ex wife worked in histology lab where she made slides for pathology. The micro tomb cut adjustable thicknesses of human tissue, biopsy specimens at an average of 4 microns thick.
The knife blades were sharpened on a thick piece of glass with rouge or compound.
I got the idea from this and saved a chunk of granite counter top to use with compounds to sharpen blades and hone cutters, chisels.
I will try the hardwood and maybe make different sizes for ease of use.

Mike

[Wayne Smith]

600 grit and finer sandpaper glued to a glass plate - I use one from a copier. 3M 777 spray glue does it. We used to call this Scary Sharp and used it for plane blades and such flat blade sharpening. Simple, cheap, and available. Next time you toss a printer save the glass platen and use it.

[Freeandcold]

Whetstones, 1000 finished with 8000 is what I use on kitchen knives. Leaves a razor sharp polished edge but, you do have to deal with soaking the stones and a bit of water.

I’m going to try a belt sander with a very fine grit followed by a leather stropping belt... just for fun. (Going to play with some old knives).

[country gent]

Just an update on this. Yesterday I brought my only 2 ceramic kitchen knives in with me. Got the paper lap out and started on the diamond side then ri the blue riuge and finally bare paper. Both came out shaving sharp plus. They were pretty dull to start with. But came right up. Probably about 30-45 mins total.

[Lloyd Smale]

work sharp. nothing quicker or easier.

[justindad]

I’m not skilled or experienced enough to sharpen a knife on a flat block with no guide. I have used the 17 degree slot on my Lansky kit to replace a scalpel (literally). It’s relaxing work, even if I am cheating.
*
The guide rods on the Lansky kit aren’t perfect. I lay the stone down on a table with the guide rod also laying on the table when I tighten the lock screw. I still get some error associated with straightness, perpendicularity &/or stiffness of the rods. So now I place a 0.001” feeler gage between the stone & table when locking the second stone in place. The third stone gets a 0.002” feeler gage, and each successive stone goes up one thou, effectively increasing the sharpening angle. It’s a bandaid for not getting better rods, but works for me.
*
The locking screw can also loosen during use. I should really get an allen type set-screw from McMaster-Carr.

[Wayne Smith]

I have been shopping at a company called Lee Valley/Veritas for years. (BTW - in over 30 years they have never sent me an e-mail!) Lee Valley does woodworking stuff, and I received in the mail yesterday "Sharpening by Hand, a Woodworker's Resource guide" and it is full of information as well as products to sharpen blades by hand.

[DougGuy]

work sharp. nothing quicker or easier.

+1 on the work sharp! I use only the brown belt, whatever grit that is, this very closely approximates the edge you get when you send a Cutco knife back for their lifetime service.

[Ural Driver]

Did the whetstone thing for years, and then discovered the Spyderco Sharpmaker, and never looked back. But I may give a look at the OP's method, just because it sounds so interesting.

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/S...aker-P294.aspx

[Wally]

For kitchen knives I find you use a combo Silicon Carbide (SiC) stone to first sharpen and then hone with a Soft or Hard Arkansas whetstone. I never let them get dull and refresh the edge using the whetstone, so I very seldom ever have to use the SiC. I also use a steel after using a knife. I shapen knives for my family using the stones mentioned....it is quick and easy. The electric belt tools are great if one has a lot of very dull knines to sharpend; but for most the SiC and an Arkansas whetsone is all you need.

[JoeJames]

Lansky ceramic rods set at prescribed angle in the wood box they came in. I bought my first set of hard and soft arkansas stones in 1974 at the AG Russell knife company in Rogers, Arkansas. But one day I checked knife sharpening videos at the Russell website, and AG himself was using ceramic rods. So I tried the rods and wham! they worked perfectly. Mentioned it to one of my cousins, and he said "Well duh, I've been using ceramic rods for ages. where you been?" I am always the last one to figure things out.

https://agrussell.com/knifesharpenin...he-V-sharpener

[alamogunr]

I bought the Ken Onion Work Sharp since I have had little luck developing skill using other methods. As Lloyd said, its easy and works, at least, to my satisfaction. I find that worn, medium grit belts are great for just touching up.

[gwpercle]

I've been using something very radical ... 14" long DMT DS4F Butcher's Diamond Sharpening Steel .
I don't know how the diamonds are impregnated into the steel but this rascal sharpens like all git-out .
Made in the USA too ...so I'm happy with it !
Gary

[NEKVT]

No method easier to sharpening a knife than using a Rada. A simple $7 tool that anyone can get results with. Great for broadheads too.

[Chill Wills]

There is nothing so unsatisfying as working a fine edge onto mediocre Chinese stainless blade steel. Back to dull in no time.

[Mal Paso]

I need help getting the angles right. I got the 10" Grizzly Wet Grinder mostly for thicker edges like chisels but it's great for knives too. I have about $400 in machine and tools. I got the grinder on sale for $150 but they were sold out of tools. I gave up waiting and bought Tormek tools. Wet grinding there's no chance of heating the edge. WEN has a 10" wet grinder now for $110 and tools as low as $35.

Just one more way to do it.