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Thread: Surface Rusted Barrel.... please help

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    A couple of comments on rust and bluing: Both are forms of iron oxide, but whether the oxide is blue or brown depends on the temperature at which it forms, from what I read. If it forms at room temperature, it'll be reddish brown. If it forms at higher temps (not far from boiling the solution, IIRC), it will be blue to black, which is why bluing is done in a bath of heated solution. These days, there are some very good compounds which can produce a true oxided surface chemically without the investment of all the traditional bluing equipment. One of those is Van's Instant Gun Blue - which is not actually blue. It imparts a black-ish finish which deepens with continued stroking with an applicator wet with Van's. I use it whenever I do something which removes the finish on a part like repairing boogered-up screw heads, scrapes and hand or holster wear, fitting dovetails on sights, etc. The surface must be entirely oil-free before you apply it, but it will oxidize the steel smoothly and evenly, darkening more with each stroke and is easy to blend well with a blue-black existing finish. Once the rust is removed, an area of minor surface rust should be easy to make virtually invisible. Be sure not to change the texture of the surface much, as this will change how the finish turns out, no matter what method is used.

    There is/was a similar product on the market called Insta-Black which is intended for oxiding tools with a very black finish. It would work well on guns as well I would think, but tends to be more aggressive. It would be good on sights, though.

    There are some to stay away from, like a "cold blue" pen I saw once, which worked just like a magic marker and did the same thing, essentially just coloring the part blue. No durability there. One hunt and it had to be re-applied. Cheesy.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master


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    I didn't read the whole thread but NO STEEL WOOL ON BLUED STEEL! It will take the blue off. Bronze wool will not damage the blueing and will probably be your best bet. It won't damage the blue although it may already be damaged due to the rust. The rim on a fired cartridge case rubbed on the rust also may remove it without damage to the remaining blue.
    Good Luck,
    Rick

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master


    missionary5155's Avatar
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    Wrap the oiled barrel in wax paper some what tight and no more rust in any case.
    "Come unto Me, all you who labor and are heavy burdened, and I will give you rest." Matthew 11:28
    Male Guanaco out in dry lakebed at 10,800 feet south of Arequipa.

  4. #24
    Boolit Mold
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    Well just to update everyone that’s tried to help me out.

    I tried to remove the rust today with brass wool and plenty of oil but it did not come off. I’m thinking it dug it to far before I caught it. I called C-Sharps and was told that it’ll be $75 an hour for the work that needs to be done and about a 4 week turn around. So not awful. To have it done right I’m just going to send it back to C-Sharps. Only wish I lived closer so I could drop it off instead of shipping it.......

    Thanks to everyone that helped out!

  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master

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    For a shooter going into C Sharps show room will probably not end well LOL.

  6. #26
    Boolit Mold
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    ������ ain’t that the truth! I have always wanted a 38-55 after I bought this one....

    And I’ve heard the Shiloh showroom is something to behold, ya probably best I just ship it

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master


    missionary5155's Avatar
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    Before I did that I would strip it down to barrel and empty receiver and boil it in plain water for at least 30 minutes. The boiling will turn the rust into black rust oxcide. Then rub it down with your bronze pad. It is amazing what that process will do to rusty steel.
    "Come unto Me, all you who labor and are heavy burdened, and I will give you rest." Matthew 11:28
    Male Guanaco out in dry lakebed at 10,800 feet south of Arequipa.

  8. #28
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    Texas by God's Avatar
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    Gun cases are moisture traps. I only use them for protection to transport guns; I never store a gun in one- I’ve cleaned the rust from other folks guns that have, though. I’ve always used 4 ought steel wool to remove light rust. Without hurting the finish. Note that I said light rust.

  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master

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    But if you talk to them upgrading wood to exhibition grade Turkish or English walnut and they might fix the rust for free......

  10. #30
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    Ed in North Texas's Avatar
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    I sprayed the inside of any cases I bought with silicone spray just as soon as I got the case. Didn't keep them floating in the boating accident though.
    Ed

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  11. #31
    Boolit Master Randy Bohannon's Avatar
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    Wax those guns, buy a high quality carnauba wax with no cleaners .I like good wood instrument wax or Johnson’s paste wax. Wax everything you can get to ,don’t wax checkering in wood. Fine clean out lettering/ checkering with a clean patch pushed around with a tooth pick. Zero rust, ever.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
    Bent Ramrod's Avatar
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    I’ve also found boiling to be a great technique for flash rust (and sometimes even worse rust). Boiling times depend on how thick it is.

    If you don’t have a tank or trough with heating, a whistling tea kettle (whistle removed, if possible, or earplugs used) or an engine steam cleaner at the local car wash works, too. Remove as much wood and parts as you can, spread papers on floor to catch rusty drips, and, holding with clean cotton gloves, pass the barrel up and down through the steam, turning as you go; sort of like would be done on when polishing on a buffing wheel. When everything is blackened, wipe down with paper towels and oil. Remaining water should evaporate from the heat, and, unless you have the “extra” finish, the blackened rust should blend in after oiling. Even with the “extra” finish, it should be invisible to all but the most detailed inspection.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    In future, aside from not keeping them in a case, you can put VPI (Vapor Phase Inhibitor) papers in with them in whatever you keep them in. A couple of those in a drawer or tool box works great to prevent rust from getting started. Good with iron molds too.

  14. #34
    Boolit Mold
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    Since I live in an apartment it’s hard to do that kind of stuff, I didn’t think about the steam method though, that’s pretty smart! I sent the rifle off on thursday back to c-sharps (that shipping HURT). I’ll keep everyone posted on what happens after it comes back and if I should have just done it myself.

    So when you use the wax as a protectant are you leave it on everything other than the bore even when you shout? Or so you strip the wax off before you start shooting?

    @yeahbub I’ll have to start using that. It would be really good used as a liner in my reloading drawers to keep things from rusting. I’ve keep a silicone packet in the case for a while but it probably was used up and wasn’t effective anymore. I graduated and started a new job and it was in the case for about 2 years before I looked at it....... I won’t be making that mistake again

  15. #35
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    Wayne Smith's Avatar
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    No need to remove external wax.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  16. #36
    Boolit Master Lead pot's Avatar
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    Some of us do our most to get a browned barrel. Looking at that small photo, from what I can see if the whole barrel looks like that small portion I personally would not spend a couple hundred dollars re bluing it.
    I have a early Farmer Shiloh that has a slightly browned finish like that and I favor it over the rest I have.

    A foam lined gun case is not the thing to keep a fine rifle locked up in. Shiloh Arms will wrap their rifles with paper when they ship it.

  17. #37
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lead pot View Post
    Some of us do our most to get a browned barrel. Looking at that small photo, from what I can see if the whole barrel looks like that small portion I personally would not spend a couple hundred dollars re bluing it.
    I have a early Farmer Shiloh that has a slightly browned finish like that and I favor it over the rest I have.

    A foam lined gun case is not the thing to keep a fine rifle locked up in. Shiloh Arms will wrap their rifles with paper when they ship it.
    Ditto to what Lead Pot said. That barrel doesn't look that bad to me, more like a gun that's seen serious use afield. I have no problem with that look.

    YMMV,
    Dave

  18. #38
    Boolit Mold
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    The picture was kind of hard to tell how “bad” it was. I was able to feel a little bit of pitting when I rubbed my fingernail across the barrel and everytime I cleaned the rifle after letting it sit for a couple days I would get rust on the patch. Since I kept seeing the rust I’d rather be safe than sorry and go ahead and get it fixed.

    Honestly I would have been ok leaving it if it wasn’t for the rust on the patches and for it only being on 3 of the 8 flats (might look at little odd if it started to brown).

    Also the picture there is after I cleaned it up A LOT. I should have taken a picture of how it looked when I took it out of the case. It was boring ht orange and was from about the forearm to the front sight on the 3 left flats. Seeing that must rust will give you a heart attack!

  19. #39
    Boolit Buddy
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    Watch Mark Novaks restoration videos on YouTube. I just finished boiling a rust covered 1920’s Crescent SB 12 bore that I bought just to try Mark’s techniques. After boiling all the parts for one hour and carding off the converted rust with 0000 steel wool, I was really amazed at the original blueing and case hardening still there. Now to finish making a new buttstock...

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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GC Gas Check