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Thread: Newbie with a score and some questions.

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Newbie with a score and some questions.

    First I'd like to thank everyone here for their fine input. I've read many posts and have learned alot. I'm new to casting and as soon as I can get some 9mm 6 cavity moulds I'll start casting bullets.

    At my local range I was able to harvest #9 lead shot from the block house that wasn't cleaned in years. Is the shot pure lead or does #9 have antimony in it?

    Also, I plan to powder coat my bullets, so does it make any difference if the BHN is 12 or 16 since the powder coating would prevent leading. Am I missing something here?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Welcome aboard.

    Shot of any size more than likely has antimony in it, the percentages depend on if it is chilled or magnum shot.

    Also shot has a lot of surface area for the amount of lead, once you get it melted and cleaned up you will have a lot less volume.

    I've never powdercoated any projectiles, but as long as they fit I don't think it will matter.

    Robert

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Welcome to Cast Boolits , just a thought , but while you waiting on a mold you can get a little experience melting down your lead preparing it for casting boolits . Scrounging up some equipment and utensils such as , a melting pot , burner , muffin pan for ingot mold , soup ladle , possibly even a thermometer . That will keep you busy + you get a little experience .
    Most importantly stay safe - gloves and safety glasses are very useful .

  4. #4
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    Shot Size Antimonial Level

    Buckshot ..... ..½ to 1%

    No. BB to 2 ... 1 to 2½%

    No. 4 to 6 .... 3 to 4%

    No. 7 to 8..... 5 to 6%

    No. 8½ to 9 for
    skeet shooting. ..3%

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Conditor, thanks for sharing. Where does this info come from?

  6. #6
    Boolit Mold
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    Conditor, thanks for that info and to others, thanks for the advice. I already purchased the Lee 4-20 pot and and ingot mold. Debating on the thermometer or a PID. Toallmy, that's what my plan is, to cast ingots until I get the moulds. Already have the gloves, safety glasses and face shield, just waiting for warmer weather.

  7. #7
    The Brass Man Four-Sixty's Avatar
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    I've used a lot of reclaimed shot. Melting it in your pot will likely be slow. To get it to breakdown I help it along with the use of a MAPP torch. I found one at Home Depot that had a button you can set to keep it on. Very handy! A MAPP torch tank will last quite a while, and expedite lead melting chores.

    You might also consider two spoons to "squeeze" some of the stubborn shot together to break its surface tension. (Think of 'spooning' but with some of the whole shot between the spoons) Sawdust to reclaim that good metal from all the debris you'll get is a must. You will make a LOT of debris using reclaimed shot. Have a good sturdy can to collect all the dirt and ash.

    Yes, you can cast with just shot. I find tumble lube design molds work best. Molds with sharp edges like wadcutters tend to tear the bullet upon release. I would hypothesize this is due to the longer time it takes a higher anitmony alloy to crystallize.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Tearing can be remedied by allowing the boolits to cool just a little longer before release.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The yellow tank is the MAPP gas torch. You can hold it upside down and the flame won't go out like propane does!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is debris removed just from the bottom of the pig taken from my casting skillet after fluxing some reclaimed shot. So, when you flux, you're going to create a lot of debris. You'll probably entrap some under your melt, and in your spout. I would suggest finish melting down any and all dirty shot, and clean out your pot as good as you can prior to casting.
    Last edited by Four-Sixty; 01-27-2021 at 09:55 PM.
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  8. #8
    Boolit Mold
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    Four-Sixty, thanks for the advice and pics. The shot I harvested is flat, i.e. after hitting a steel plate. It's been in the block house for years and only had leaves and wads in it. I used my air compressor and blew most of the trash out, but I do expect there will be debris in my melt. Was planning on getting the tumble lube moulds since I hope to powdercoat the bullets.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johns87 View Post
    Four-Sixty, thanks for the advice and pics. The shot I harvested is flat, i.e. after hitting a steel plate. It's been in the block house for years and only had leaves and wads in it. I used my air compressor and blew most of the trash out, but I do expect there will be debris in my melt. Was planning on getting the tumble lube moulds since I hope to powdercoat the bullets.
    You can powder coat any profile bullet from one with no lube grooves at all to one with full-sized grooves. You will find that reclaimed shot likely has a lot of graphite? coating on it and will take some amount of stirring/squeezing to get it to melt. This coating also results in significant amounts of dross that must be skimmed off.
    R.D.M.

  10. #10
    Boolit Mold
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    Blackthorn, thanks, didn't know about the graphite.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Since no one mentioned it, you will probably want to add some tin to your mix.

    http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm

    This page will give a lot of info about bullet alloys as well as the alloys of commonly available materials.

  12. #12
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks charlie. great info.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master on Heaven’s Range
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    We come to the forum!!!
    These boys are telling you fact.
    Shot will take a little longer to melt.
    And I would say you could add a little tin.
    Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy!
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  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

    Wayne Smith's Avatar
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    Yeah, graphite acts as an insulator, you have to break it up for the lead to melt.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check