As the title states. Is there an oven or kiln out there that won't break the bank. I don't want to do this in the house hold oven. One at a time is out of the question.
Thanks
As the title states. Is there an oven or kiln out there that won't break the bank. I don't want to do this in the house hold oven. One at a time is out of the question.
Thanks
Currently I use a lee dipper pot. I'm going to experiment with induction heating this summer.
QUIS CUSTODIET IPSOS CUSTODES?
I use a "Tabletop Furnace". It will give you up to little over 2000 degree temp (what ever temp you set) and is controlled. They run about $400, and have many other uses as well.
Metal coffee can on my gas grill.
Really any metal can without the white liner I would think.
If you're gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough.
SASS 17373
Proud Dad of a USAF Airman
I bought a Lee melter furnace (About $40) Heat 22 hulls until they turn color stirring with a metal rod. Then dump. Hard to mess up.
Attachment 275883
Hard times create strong men, strong men create good times, good times create weak men, and weak men create hard times.
I put mine on a grill in a broiler pan.You don't have to get them very hot...maybe 500°F or so. (make sure there ain't any live ones in there. I had one go off and "ptwang" nice dent in the broiler pan)
Muffle furnace
First time I used it I had a block of brass afterward. I put a PID on it after that.
Set a lead pot with brass in a wood stove for 10/15 min. Or put it on a coleman camp stove.
Used to use my self cleaning oven & it worked well. I have since aquired a small table top kiln or mufflel furnace with a pid control. It will heat to over 2000 degrees so I can heat treat dies & punches as well as aneal brass for jackets. I was lucky though. I found it on flea-bay for a little over $100 & it works as advertised.
Bob
Si hostes visibilis, etiam tu
The furnace is a Thermoline 1400. It runs on 110 volts. It was originally analog with a needle going up to 2100 degrees. The previous owner installed a pid controler & used it to aneal 22lr jackets. It had a wire basket that just fit inside to hold the jackets which I promptly lost. I'm making a new one of 1/4 in hardware cloth. The inside is only about 4x4 & 6 inches deep. Plenty big enough to harden & aneal dies & punches as well as aneal jackets.
Bob
Si hostes visibilis, etiam tu
I use a devise I chuck in my hand drill. Rather like a socket on an extension arm. Drop the case in the "socket", spin and hold in the flame of a gas torch (the kind available at any hardware store). Takes 3 or 4 seconds to heat the case to annealing temps and them I dump it out on a plywood tray~ repeat with another case. I only heat the neck / shoulder area. Can do hundreds in no time. There is a learning curve with this method. Got to know when to stop the heat. I count to myself to attain the cadence. This is a learned skill, so there is a learning curve involved, but if I can do it, anybody can. Works really good, too.
If you are trying to figure out how to anneal 22lr cases...like I said before...It is as easy as firing up a grill ( I use gas but I imagine you can use charcoal too.) and pouring a few thousand on a broiler pan and let them heat for a 15 minutes. You can adjust the time and yada yada. But basically it is that easy. (from my experience)
After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.
I'll have to test a piece of hardware cloth in the furnace. The basket I lost was of expanded metal. Maybe he used that for a reason. I'll have to look harder for it. I was unable to find any expanded metal so I chose hardware cloth. We'll see how the test goes. Thanks for the tip.
Bob
Si hostes visibilis, etiam tu
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I've got a Tractor Supply two miles away and Waukesha is only about 15 miles. I just tried Ace Hardware. Thanks for the tip.
Bob
Si hostes visibilis, etiam tu
I use the RAPIDFIRE PRO-L furnace. It has a front opening door, and a digital controller for temp control. To hold the rimfire cases I just use a cleaned tomato can (take the label off and run it empty once to burn off the glue etc). Just pick a size that will fit in the firing chamber and dump in maybe 3/4 can full of brass. When it gets up to about 1000* let it soak for 5-10 minutes, then let it cool down and you are good to go.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |