New handle for Star sizer

[chrisx1]

Check out the new handle I made for my Star.

Somewhat copied the shovel handle design, with a Dillon press twist.

What do you think?

Also - what can I do to keep the wooden roller from sliding left to right? I thought about a hole with a cotter pin, but I don't want to chance ripping up my hand mid-stroke. Suggestions?

Chris

P.S.- not trying to hide anything with the sheet, just trying to get a good background for the pic...

You can click on the pics for a full-size view.

[crabo]

Drill the end and put a washer and a cotter pin outside the washer.

[Dennis Eugene]

Score a ring around the handle then add a snap ring and washer then the wooden handle. Dennis P.S I like it might borrow your idea and make my own.

[wildbill49]

I would think a better way would be to weld a washer as a stop for the wooden handle and then dip the handle into water to put some temper back into the metal. If you don't dip it, it will be to soft and bend. Drill or scoring the handle will weaken the metal. I know my handle had bent with just the standard handle and lots of use.

[Lloyd Smale]

boy your star sure looks nicer then mine!!

[No_1]

Nice work on the handle. I agree that a washer welded would work but I think you only need to "tack" it on there. Maybe just 2 spots and it should hold fine. It's not like there is a tremendous amount of side force there.

Robert

[ddeaton]

Just get a collar with a set screw for the diameter of the rod. Slip in on and tighten the set screw. I would put one on both sides. You can even make one easy if not in an area to get one. No sharp edges to bite you. I might even copy your design for mine, I like it

[Forester]

I like that an awful lot...Like the others said I may have to try my hand at copying it.

Offsetting the handle away farther from the machine also would solve the problem I have with banging my mitt on the regulator for the airfeed.

[lathesmith]

Hi Chris, nice work! I'm not trying to be contrarian here, as I actually think tack-welding a washer would be a quick and easy solution. However, If you have access to a small lathe, you might be able to turn a small, thick bushing out of brass or aluminum and lightly press-fit it on your handle. Then the wood wouldn't have any place to go on that side.
lathesmith

[Forester]

Hi Chris, nice work! I'm not trying to be contrarian here, as I actually think tack-welding a washer would be a quick and easy solution. However, If you have access to a small lathe, you might be able to turn a small, thick bushing out of brass or aluminum and lightly press-fit it on your handle. Then the wood wouldn't have any place to go on that side.
lathesmith

Now theres the sort of thing a guy with a lathe would do instead of tack welding a washer like the rest of us have to

Yeah, I'm a little jealous

[chrisx1]

Copy away guys...that's why I put it on here!

The 3/8" rod and a hammer handle can be found at your local hardware store for cheap.

I am somewhat concerned about the bending part, but I thought I would wait and see. The more I think about it, I think I'll go weld a washer on and quench it good just to help the odds.

I'm going to fire it up tonight or tomorrow - I'll let you know how it works.

Chris

[chrisx1]

Now theres the sort of thing a guy with a lathe would do instead of tack welding a washer like the rest of us have to

Yeah, I'm a little jealous

Yeah, all of us are jealous....
I was almost ready to buy a lathe, and then the election went the way it did....then my priorities changed.

Lathesmith, you are my access to a lathe....those sizer dies you made me are SWEEEEEET!
(by the way I will be contacting you soon for a .451, and whatever other size I can think of - wouldn't want to waste a half-full envelope coming back to me!!!)

[chrisx1]

Well, I couldn't stand having a project half way finished, so I welded a washer on, threaded the outboard end of the handle another half inch, and then cut the outboard end flush with the nut.

Don't look too close at that welding job, I don't have a welder - just a torch and some filler rod - but it will work.

I also bent the handle a little more so it wasn't quite as far to the right.

I was also thinking about your idea Lathesmith. A guy with a lathe could turn such a bushing, then turn a roller handle out of the same material. You could have the bushing smaller than the handle, or you could just let the metal handle go all the way to the bend. Metal wouldn't wear like the wood on that corner. Probably wouldn't need any kind of keeper or washer on the inboard side if you made the roller out of metal.

Another thing for everyone to think about:

Do you see how I made the handle extra long....It protrudes below the axle of the sizer by several inches. Could a guy put a counterweight on that bottom end of the handle to solve the problem of the handle dropping at the most inopportune time? If you look closely, I solved the problem with a piece of string attached to the handle on top of the axle. The string goes down thru a hole in the bench to a counterweight. You can make a counterweight like mine out of a partial bag of shot or whatever.

[lathesmith]

Counterweights? Wow, now your ARE getting fancy Chris! Actually that might be an idea worth trying, as I also HATE having that handle flop over all the time! I guess you could turn you a nice heavy piece of round steel and thread it on that end...neat and elegant, and above all, fuctional! But darn it all, a guy would have to have a lathe to do that, wouldn't he? (I'm not trying to emphasize a point or anything, ha!)
Actually, you could do it like a caster (who don't have a lathe) would, and make yourself a small square mold, and cast a square chunk of lead, and then drill it just slightly smaller than the shaft. Then you could pound it on the end of the rod rather easily, and it should stay in place. Where there's a will, and a few ideas, there' s always a way...
lathesmith