You need to consider security for such things as generators and solar panels...
You need to consider security for such things as generators and solar panels...
What are your pumping requirements in GPM? I have put in several solar pumps in the past 15 years. They are awesome for wells <80', I have one for a well that is 650' - complete waste of money. The actual volume you need is what you need to figure out. From there, take it to your local NRCS and let them do the figuring for you. Otherwise, there are a multitude of on-line pump / solar salesman that will do the same.
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I'm glad that I put this query out there. Knew that I would get some good responses, questions and all that goes with it. Got a lot of homework to do yet, that I knew was coming.
Over the past year we have brought in water, in gallon jugs, for hand washing. My feelings are that if we're to gain/keep the membership, we have to offer some amenities(?) Porta-Potty(s) are sorta expected by everyone but if we're to succeed here we have to offer more than that. We're into our first year of real development, most everything that was done last year was done with temporary usage in mind. As to the expected depth I would put it between 100 & 150'. I had thought of a hand pump at the ranges themselves but based upon what I've read their only good to 25'. A wind turbine has been on my mind since there does seem to be a breeze most times I've been out to the property. How many GPM we would need I don't know. Maybe an elevated tank of sorts would be something to incorporate into all of this. Something I hadn't thought of. Like I said, lots of homework.
NRCS, I'll have to Google that.
https://wbrpc.org/
genealogy, another area of interest
feedback - http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...9613-czech_too
the system I talked about can be used with a pressure tank to give you "normal" water at the turn of a faucet and if your only going to 150 foot you could get there for 1800 bucks, I just purchased another system and they were on sale.
instead of the old plastic outhouse, with live water you could do a septic and leach field and have real bathrooms and be able to water shade trees too.
if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead
I think the least expensive way to go is a gas generator of around 3500 watts. They are around $450. That size generator should run any house sized submersible pump up to 4hp. A pump should be around 3-400 bucks. You would need wire and plastic pipe. You need to pump into a tank of a couple hundred gallons and gravity feed to your wash basin. The sysrem would need to be drained for cold weather.
Outdoor pit type toilets would be the least expensive. Porta-potties come with a sevice fee if rented.
Mustang
"In the beginning... the patriot is a scarce man, and brave and hated and scorned. When his cause succeeds, the timid join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." - Mark Twain.
A 4 hp pump will shut down a 3500 watt generator in 2 revolutions if the breaker doesn't get there first. Start Amps are 3-6 times Run Amps.
When I was young I got a great demo. I was helping deck a bridge. I plugged my 1500 watt Milwaukee saw into a 2500 watt generator and pulled the trigger. The generator stopped so fast I thought the piston seized. Couldn't believe it so I did it again. Except for no breaker on the generator all the equipment was working properly.
Last edited by Mal Paso; 01-08-2021 at 11:46 AM.
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
I'm reminded of years ago when my folks were having a well drilled. They hit water at maybe 50', but had to go maybe 200' for what they considered good water. It could be the case that water would be available for washing, toilets, etc from a shallow well. If potable water isn't required it may open up more options. I have no idea what type of soil would be in the area, or where your water table would be, but I know people who have driven a sand point well themselves to minimize cost.
I have a well at the Moapa House with water level at 10 feet. Required by the State to drill the well to 180 feet through two water/gravel layers, and into a third in order to meet their requirements to avoid "Contaminating the Water" at shallower levels. Did not matter that I was using it for "Agriculture" purposes and not for consumption.
Mustang
"In the beginning... the patriot is a scarce man, and brave and hated and scorned. When his cause succeeds, the timid join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." - Mark Twain.
https://idahohandpump.com/
Neighbors are using this with good results for a back up down to 300 ft.
[The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze
My house is 912 ft from the power took 3 poles I'd get the power first.
This is what several people on our neighborhood have decided to do instead of a well and the water brought in is potable, too. The truck brings in about 1,000 gallons of drinkable whenever required and they collect rainwater for washing and container watering in a separate 250gallon tank(s). If part or all of your firing line is covered, just run that water into the rainwater tanks.
Consider the potential for growth of your club, will the work you do now support requirements in ten years. Given the costs to upgrade for future needs it might be better to go with power from your local utility.
At this time I don't know who the local utility is, but if I get a chance to talk with the neighbor tomorrow...
I sent the club president a link to this thread. Regardless of what we decide, I want us to all be on the same page.
https://wbrpc.org/
genealogy, another area of interest
feedback - http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...9613-czech_too
To start off with you might want to put in a shallow well with a hand pump for all you stated to use it and see how it works out and can put in a jet pump with a motor to pump more water in a tank if needed . Since for how it will be used and later could decide what you like to do after. It would work for starting off before you invest alot of money. Just a idea to give . 20' is about the for a regular hand pump. Just makes sure you have some water with you to prime it . I use to work for some well drilling companies in the past and put a some shallow wells. But need to check your county laws of what you can get away with . If in the city or town check with them.
Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA
Many people farther out of town don't have wells or a water supplier. The usually have to truck in water and fill a 1500 gallon tank or two, at their house. I had looked at a house to buy one time that had two tanks out in the barn in a heated area. There was a well, but only made about 2 gal/min, so they used the well to fill the tanks.
There is a set up closer to town for people who don't have water service, where you can put your money in the machine and it will pump you a certain amount of gallons of water from our local water company, for you to haul yourself.
the whole hauling water and using tanks for a public area is a big NO-NO. the chance for contamination is through the roof and the person supplying or the person who owns the tank are liable for any sickness, the only way to do a public supply with a tank is constant monitoring of the water quality and that makes the whole deal very expensive. the rules for your own use and that of the public are hugely different. even if you post "non-potable" signs all over, the tank owner is stil liable unless its a gov agency like a town and then they are protected by governmental immunity.
if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead
Most rural utilities wont drop poles and run electric for no pay back. I lucked out and lived in a house trailer for 2 years while building my house. 200 amp meter loop. Had big shop at that location.
Built a barn with horse stalls close to new house location, they balked at adding 2 poles wires and trans can for a barn. Told them was building a house, they complied and after 21 yrs i think there making money @.10per KWH
At several places I’ve lived, the utility companies didn’t care how far away you were from the closest source. All that they cared about was if there was a right of way and that you paid for the whole thing. Of course you had to use a certified contractor. You couldn’t do it yourself.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |