357/38 and powder coating: Size before or after?

[Castinator]

I know I'm going to get a lot of "slug the barrel" answers, but I have numerous 38 and 357 guns, and I am also handloading for friends.

Curious if people size before or after powder coating. I've been sizing after powdercoating with good success in 9mm, but all my 38 molds seem to cast larger (which can lead to sizing the PC off), so I'm thinking size first, PC after. But if I do that, I'm thinking size to 357 instead of 358, then powdercoating (then size to 358?).

What is everyone doing on 357/38?

[Targa]

For gas checks I am sizing first to seat the check, then powder coating, then size again. For plain base I am just sizing after powder coating.
If your peeling PC off during sizing, maybe try a bit of lube? Just kind of throwing an idea out, don’t know if that would help or not.

[JWFilips]

I always size after casting and again after PC...always

[kenton]

I size after coating, I go from .363-.365 to .358 in one go.

How much are you trying to reduce the diameter?

[Boogieman]

I size after coating never had any problems. Do your coated bullets pass the hammer test?

[Castinator]

I don't know what it is with Lee molds and 38 caliber, but this is the second one that drops like .360. Obviously any powdercoat is going to be taken off with a 358 die. And it's brand new, so I doubt it's an obstruction issue.

[Chris S]

Sizing should always be the last step.
Chris

[kenton]

That is about where mine drop at. I usually get about .003-.004 diameter increase with my powder coat. I too am curious about whether they pass the hammer test.

Assuming your powder coat has good adhesion I would maybe check your sizing die to see if it has any rough spots or sharp edges.

[DHDeal]

That's a big size down, but others have had success with that much.

FWIW, I always coat then size no matter whether it is a GC design or not. I do use a little spray of One Shot in the container of ready to size bullets. Makes a BIG difference of the feel of the bullets as it slides through the die. It even makes my fat bullets slide right on through.

[Conditor22]

The only reason powder coat is taken off when sizing is if the die has a sharp edge on the entrance. I like to polish the entrance and lightly inside the sizing die to help the boolits slide through easier.

The amount you can size down in one pass depends on the hardness and size of the boolit (it's easier to greatly reduce the size of a larger boolit ie 45/70 than it is a 30 cal)

[reddog81]

If sizing takes the powder coat off I’d be afraid that the PC was not cured correctly. Sizing a too large of a bullet will lead to a deformed looking bullet with smeared lubed grooves and a skirt hanging off the base of the bullet.

[Burnt Fingers]

Sizing is always my last step. If you size before the PC will add another couple thousandths.

I use a lot of Hi-Tek. The directions say to never size before coating.

[Gunslinger1911]

I size after PC. As said, if your PC is coming off, it's not cured enough or sizing die has a sharp spot.
If sizing is hard, a little case lube goes a long way.

[mehavey]

Sizing should always be the last step.

Yup -- except in the case where gas checks won't fit afterwards,
In that case: Size/GC first -- then PC -- and size again. *

As far as scraping proper PC off, never happen.
It's swaged on even more firmly.


* When I couldn't fit GCs on after PC-ing, I used to just crimp the GCs
on by themselves (not size) in a Lyman 450 Lubrizer, then PC/size after.

But[t] that's a PITA.

[Tonerboy]

So far my rule of thumb has been coat and then size/gas check. I do have difficulty with some of the big 45's and the gas checks fitting on the base a little snug. So I may try gas check, coat, resize just to see how they look on the next batch of those I do. Some slugs go through a little harder than others, but I've never had any PC rub off. I have had oil from the sizing die left on the surface that looked like the coating had been damaged, but a quick rub of the fingers takes off the oil and the PC is just fine with no problems. The best way to find what works best for you is to do a small batch each way and find which way turns out the slugs you like best.

[Tonerboy]

And since your original question was for 357. I use all lee molds, PC first, then size to 358 with no GC added. These all seem to size with no problems. A little more effort to push than my 9mm, but thats more due to a larger bearing surface in contact with the sizing die, and none of my PC comes off. If anything it looks more smooth where the die contacted the boolit.

[mehavey]

General rule.

- If you can PC and still get the gas check on the shank before then sizing, do it that way.
- If PC makes the gas check shank too big to reasonably apply the gas check afterwards, GC/size 1st, PC 2nd, Size again 3rd (extra step).

As far as shooting afterwards, I've found little/if any difference.

[plainsman456]

I size before and after if the diameter is not right after coating.

Does not hurt a thing.

[tankgunner59]

I have always done it this way. Cast, cool and let stand for a couple days as an old caster taught me, then size, PC, cool, size and seat GC. An old friend like a second dad, taught me to do it like this and it hasn't failed me yet. YMMV

[RedHawk357Mag]

I am wondering has anyone casted, PC, and then sized and raised a visible ridge around the entire circumference of the bullet base? My PC is definitely cured and sized bullets show no trauma from resizing aside from the raised ridge on base. I neglected to measure bullets prior to coating and afterwards. Also did not use any additional lubrication while sizing. Have a fresh batch that may cause the issue again as pre PC coating measure .360" with calipers, will mic later today for a more accurate measurements. On previous batch I sanded the ridge down and bullet shot like a dog. Let alone the mind numbing of light sanding bullet bases. Bullet showed no drama when lubed to same diameter with bullet lube prior to knowledge of PC.

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