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Thread: Reloading Room Floor

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
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    I ran a small fan heater at about 35 C for a few days before I painted, however the cement slab had been down for about 6 months, as far as the rat problem goes I have 2 resident pythons that live in my shed, we have a good working relationship I try not to bother them and they take care of any rodents.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
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    Summer the humidity is higher, takes longer for concrete to cure. This would be different regionally.

  3. #23
    Boolit Bub
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    Concrete will cure even under water, actually cures better when kept moist so it doesn't get too warm...

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Where I am summers are hot ad dry, whereas winter is cold and damp. I hope I’m not going to have to wait until summer to finish this project.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master

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    FWIW, I saw a program once where a big city exterminator took a 4'X4' sheet of cardboard, covered it with a good thick coat of contact cement, and then dotted it with a little roast beef, peanut butter, cheese, mashed up potato chips, for the most discerning of rodents. He claimed that the setup would take the most trap savvy of rats.
    You have enemies? Good. That means you've stood up for something, sometime in your life.
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  6. #26
    Boolit Mold
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    If you think about all that water in all that concrete it will start to make sense. You won't find much liquid in hardened concrete right? Takes it a while to work out I guess....

  7. #27
    Boolit Master

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    Assuming you don't have a chicken coop nearby a weasel will do a job on the biggest of rats. Unfortunately, I've never run across any "Rent a Weasel" outfits.
    “Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan


  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by oley55 View Post
    I've never run across any "Rent a Weasel" outfits.
    I have , when a contractor has overbooked he will rent some and send them to the job site

  9. #29
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by onelight View Post
    I have , when a contractor has overbooked he will rent some and send them to the job site
    Are those the two legged variety?

    To the OP, the longer the wait the better. And no matter how well it may hide floor imperfections, I would not use any of those speckle/paint chip coverings. Dropped small parts are hard enough to find as is, way worse on a speckled floor.
    Last edited by oley55; 01-12-2021 at 09:05 AM.
    “Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan


  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
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    I read a "how to" book for Australian farmers from the early 1900's. They recommended a 50/50 mix of flour and portland cement, with pans of water nearby. Stock, pets and children were at no risk, but rats will eat anything. It might be an effective, safe, easy, and inexpensive solution here.

    Trapshooter

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    I once moved into a block house and discovered rats coming in around the plumbing. Dad told me to set 3 trapping type traps in a tight circle and cover with a thin cloth,
    then crumble corn bread in the middle. Trapped about a week got I think 21 rats ( lived on a creek bank ) then fixed around pipes no more rats.
    Aaron

  12. #32
    Boolit Master


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    Got the same problem in my shop. Keep about 3 traps and a jar of peanut butter up there. Every couple of days, I empty the DBs and reset the traps. The neighborhood possum comes by and disposes of the DBs for me. Never ending task./beagle
    diplomacy is being able to say, "nice doggie" until you find a big rock.....

  13. #33
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    Get on youtube and search 'rat traps'.
    There are some really great looking traps guys have built and are filmed in action with trail cams..
    Especially the electric ones---- they are hilarious to see working.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
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    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
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    Thought I would go ahead and say something about the concrete. I spent 24 years as a construction inspection with Tx Dot. We were taught the “truth” about Portland cement concrete. The strength and quality of pcc depends on ratio of water to cement (by mass, or weight). Low water/cement ratio means high strength/quality of the placed concrete. High water/ cement ratios yield low strength/ quality and porous concrete. The easiest fix for your slab is to place a thin layer of low water/cement ratio concrete on top of what you have and cure it by covering the surface with plastic to keep the moisture in the concrete to allow complete hydration of the cement.
    My experience was that many contractors could place concrete, but few contractors knew what they were doing.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    To be sure you're not trapping moisture-- which will make the epoxy bubble and turn loose,
    lay a piece of heavy plastic on it in a few places. Wait a day or so and lift them up.
    If there is still moisture coming out, you'll see it as a damp spot under the plastic.
    This is the standard. Water droplets on the underside of plastic indicates it’s too wet to paint.
    You can also purchase or maybe rent a meter that indicates the moisture level of cementitious floors & walls. Most coating manufacturers note the acceptable moisture level on their products.
    Concrete suppliers test their products for a range of strengths achieved over a duration of time. Your floor is probably of the 4,000 psi crush strength after 28 days if installed as mixed at the plant. Adding excessive water at the site will result in a weaker crush strength along reduction of tensile and shear strength and increased porosity. Unless you intend to park a M48 Patton on it your floor will be fine. Ventilate until moisture level is acceptable.
    BTW concrete continues to cure and become stronger for years. Concrete that tests at 4000 psi after 28 days will be 8000 psi after 20 years.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
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    RATS RATS RATS everywhere, at one time we owned a home with a small barn, nearby property was a municipal land fill when they would burn we would become instantly infested with rats, (you could see their trails in the grass where they had migrated). We tried everything from traps to bulk poisonings. Finally one day an older fellow whom I knew from a racing pigeon club mentioned about vermin problems and how he had resolved them. In a very thick Austrien accent he said "yous need und ferret or perhaps 2, release at night in zee house und catch in das morn. So desperate, we found a person who had ferrets and purchased a couple and got all neccessary info for maintence and care, the first night was a blood bath in the kitchen the next was dead rats anywhere they were caught, by night 3 no rats in the house not even a squeak, next was the barn I was apprehensive because my wifes laying hens might be attractive easy kills for these little physcopaths but the hens stayed on thier roosts and the ferrets didnt bother them. We soon learned ferrets and rats do not mix and even litter from their pen is enough to deter most types of vermin. As for your concrete colour I think its probably still drying.

  17. #37
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    There is a guy on Youtube who hunts rats with minks, another possibility. Do what fixes the rat issue

  18. #38
    Boolit Master


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    Standard for cure in the industry is 28 days. It can be coated earlier with a special moisyure bartier epoxy primer which generallt is 4x as expensive as the standard primer.

    To check if ready to coat, tape down a piece of 18" x 18" plastic in a couple of spots and check back in 24 hours. If moisture is present, give it more time.

    I'm presently just finishing up at a manufacturing plant in the silicon forest doing chemical resistant floor coatings on containments for process chemical storage tanks. With this test we were able to coat 8" walls and a 4"-20" grade slab a week after it was poured a month ago.

    There was no curing agents used. The concrete was diamond ground and shot blasted as soon as form work was removed.

    What is your surface prep plan/requirenent, hand grind, acid etch? Ventilation is key. Start venting once dew burns off and close off as temps start to decline.

    If you have any specific questions, you can PM me. G
    Last edited by Greg S; 04-30-2021 at 04:22 PM.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    Get on youtube and search 'rat traps'.
    There are some really great looking traps guys have built and are filmed in action with trail cams..
    Especially the electric ones---- they are hilarious to see working.
    I like the one built with a drink can, 5 gallon bucket half full of water and a coat hanger!

  20. #40
    Boolit Buddy


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    I tried 4 or 5 different rat poisons before Tomcat All Weather Bait Chunks. It worked well for me. I wired them into PVC pipe and place along their runs around the barn next to the wall. It took 2 large pails, about 40 pounds, and a month but we got rid of them. The only thing we see now are field mice.

    I agree with wmitty, "High water/ cement ratios yield low strength/ quality and porous concrete. The easiest fix for your slab is to place a thin layer of low water/cement ratio concrete on top of what you have and cure it by covering the surface with plastic to keep the moisture in the concrete to allow complete hydration of the cement."

    and GregS, "To check if ready to coat, tape down a piece of 18" x 18" plastic in a couple of spots and check back in 24 hours. If moisture is present, give it more time."

    They told us in school that concrete cures for about 100 years, then falls apart.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check